do a search. its been discussed many times. Its most likely the vacuum pump behind the front bumper.. It engages the front wheels,,

 

Thanks for the reply XL7Limited, I did think of the pump but where my 4X4 indicator light doesn't illuminate on the dash console at all I was thinking it would be my Transfer 4WD switch on the Transfer case. Tonight I did test the Transfer 4WD switch on top of the transfer case and with the ignition in the on position the switch should show 10 -14 volts when in 2H and 0 - 1 volts when in 4 High or 4 Low. My volt meter didn't read any volts when in 2H so I'm going to assume that the switch is faulty. What do you think?

 

yes it sure does sound like a faulty switch.

Thanks for the reply XL7Limited, I did think of the pump but where my 4X4 indicator light doesn't illuminate on the dash console at all I was thinking it would be my Transfer 4WD switch on the Transfer case. Tonight I did test the Transfer 4WD switch on top of the transfer case and with the ignition in the on position the switch should show 10 -14 volts when in 2H and 0 - 1 volts when in 4 High or 4 Low. My volt meter didn't read any volts when in 2H so I'm going to assume that the switch is faulty. What do you think?

 

Update:
Turns out it wasn't the 4WD switch on top of the transfer case. I followed the wiring and it turns out that one of the wires that go into the coupler for the air pump on the front bumper had broke off and away from the coupler. I re-attached the wire and I'm 4X4 once again.

 

I learned this the other day as I had a similar issue, the previous owner of my XL-7 washed it more than he drove it and as a result there was some corrosion in the contatcs for the pump. I also learned that the switch for the 4WD indicator is actually in the fron differential. When the pump is activated it inflates a bladder which engages the 4WD on l y after the ballder is inflated does the light come on.
You can not have 4WD with the light off (unless theres is a problem with the light) and you definitely cannot have no 4WD when the light is on!

Basically what I am saying is unless there is a deeper problem, when the light is on the 4WD is on.

 

Evidently, the switch for the 4x4 light is actually modular with the pump! The signal to the computer is from a pressure sensor (.5 volts) inside the pump. It goes to ground, and illuminates the dash lamp, via the switch on the transfer case.

I have been using my front axle with the pump removed, and the differential works like new...and NO 4x4 light! I designed a better, more rugged and more dependable pump.

 

I know this is probably a stupid question but here goes. Does the 4x4 pump inflate or deflate the actuator in the differential?
Mine the light comes on but no 4x4. So to check the pump I attached a long hose to the line going to the differential and to the inside of the car. I attached a vacuum tester and applied vacuum to the differential while driving ( with the shift leaver in 4h of course.
Still no 4x4
Any ideas????

 

It requires pressure to actuate. If you have shop air or a hand pump, it only take like 5 PSI, or some rather small amount of pressure to do the trick, to test it.

 

I think I may have mine figured out. I tried a known good pump tonight. Just plugged it in didnt install it yet. Too cold here in NYC.
All it did when my brother put it in 4H was click. Didnt start pumping.
So I'm guessing its the switch on the transfer case.
Can I get to it from inside with just the removal of the shift console?
Or do I need to get underneath?
Also testing the switch is it just a continuity test?

I think both pumps I have may be good. I guess I'll sell the extra one if so. Can one post parts for sale here?

On a side note on the way home I smelled gas. The *^&^&@#@ fuel hose by the radiator is leaking.

 

I think I may have mine figured out. I tried a known good pump tonight. Just plugged it in didn't install it yet. Too cold here in NYC.
All it did when my brother put it in 4H was click. Didn'T start pumping.
So I'm guessing its the switch on the transfer case.
Can I get to it from inside with just the removal of the shift console?
Or do I need to get underneath?
Also testing the switch is it just a continuity test?

I think both pumps I have may be good. I guess I'll sell the extra one if so. Can one post parts for sale here?

On a side note on the way home I smelled gas. The *^&^&@#@ fuel hose by the radiator is leaking.

Hello, I'm new to the forum, and I am in URGENT need of a pump for a 99 Tracker that went teets-up yesterday!

Sorry for not introducing myself earlier, but I saw you had a pump that might work for me...mine is fried. I drive 90 miles every night on top of some nasty ridges in Northern West Virginia.

If you still have a spare pump that is available, how much do you want for it?

G. M. quoted about $400.00 for a new, and I can't find any Tracker/Sidekick/X-90/ Vitara anywhere near me.

Thanks for your help, Brother,
Tigertamer

 

By the way my 96 Sport 1.8, someone hit it. Its for sale on ebay under salvage parts car.
Great parts car. The 4x4 functions great unlike this new and improved 2000 GV I'm driving now. I'm being sarcastic by the way.

 

All it did when my brother put it in 4H was click

If you heard the pump click behind the front bumper, I'd check voltage (12V) and the connections there at the pump. If OK, replace the pump w/that spare unit you have.

The COLD may be adding to your actuating problems. I'm flying in to LGA tomorrow to spend the Holidays w/my son in NYC. I'll bring some SC warmth with me. That should help

 

2005 XL7 4x4 No Shift Problem

Hi I have a New Problem It snowed heavy and I was Using Low range 4x4 for a while then when I went to shift it Back ,it will Not.. No Neutral ..No Hi 4x4 and No 2 wheel it Just stays in Low 4x4 ..I checked fuses ,OK I looked Under car and wires seem ok..Tell me what you thinkdoes this Vacuum thing come into Play on My Model ?? Thanks Much Mr Nu

 

Good deal!

What did you use for a pump? :huh:

 

I cannibalized a blood pressure cuff and used the pump bulb with release valve for my pump.

I used the sound tube from the stethoscope part as a tee to place a tune-up vacuum gage, and ran 3/16 in. tube through the firewall to the vacuum port behind the bumper.

I can get about 10 PSI with three or four squeezes of the bulb.

I had the blood pressure cuff laying around, and thought it might be recycled to get me out of my bind, until I can find a salvage part, or I can rebuild mine, whichever comes first.

I got pretty nifty at hacks like this after owning a Chinese motorcycle for a few years. I always carry duct tape, super glue and J-B weld with me.

I can add some pics tomorrow.

Thanks,
Tigertamer

 

Hey that is Very cool Pump setup that you rigged ! I still Do not Know much about this system ?,But you are Helping me to Understand it some what , excited to see your Pictures! Do you have to Pull the plastic Bumper ? to get at this stuff ?
THE COLD TEMP....Seemed to Effect mine from shifting OUT of 4 lowto 2 Hi .
I have read about a Manual system for American rigs ,That SOUNDS easy , A Pull & Push Cable (But Not Made for these rigs) It sounds Like Installing a Bracket to diff. and the Operating Cable to Dash area ? If any one can Confirm & or clarifiy this? It would Be Much Appreciated , NU with 2005 XL -7

 

Do you have to Pull the plastic Bumper ? to get at this stuff ?

On the Tracker, you can access the pump by just crawling under the front passenger side. Pull the air lines, and the electrical connector, and remove two 14mm bolts. That's it...5 min at most. You don't even need t jack up the front! Just be sure to get the air lines on the right nipples when reinstalling

For my fix, I left the original pump in place. The pictures will probably help. I'll try to get them up this afternoon.

I am going to use this set up until I get a replacement SALVAGE part, of fix mine

Good luck,
Tigertamer

 

great idea tiger!!!! Love to see pics of it..

 

I have this portion at the shift lever, and used 3/16 poly tubing to route the pressure to the differential. About 4 squeezes gives me 9-10 PSI, enough to give me good front traction.

I shove the shifter into 4H, then squeeze the bulb to engage. To disengage, I twist the pressure release valve on the bulb, then shift to 2H.

It's not as convenient as stock, but it is way more dependable, with less mechanical, electrical and moving parts to go bad. And you don't have to stop and get out to lock-up!

I may even refine this set-up and roll with it

Thanks for the kudos,
Tigertamer