Welcome shirz and rex_mutation!

Your Singapore GV forum board has lots of GV set-up for off-road^_^

BTW, is that a wading snorkel installed? It that the FTS brand? Did you have to reposition your body fender side turn signal lights?

Cheers,

GV real SUV

 

yup. signal light is gone or re-positioned.

 

Thanks for the info shirz. I guess your GV can wade in deep water with no worries:lol:

I wish that the FTS snorkel could be modified, so that the body side turn signal lights could still be used.

The FTS is best suited to the North American market GV; as I've noticed they don't have the body side turn signal lights.

Cheers,

GV real SUV

 

wade in water with no worries? gawd, dun think our rubber seal can take it... have yet to try, hope will never have to...

 

Hi shirz,

Well, if ever you come across a sudden flashflood with deep water, your GV equipped with a snorkel can wade in where other vehicles can't

Cheers,

GV real SUV

 

Thank you Taras for sharing the picture & the information

im new in this forum ^_^ i own 2007 V6 2.7 Grand Vitara & i was wondering what is the lift kit and how it is installed , and the most important thing where cani buy it

my car has R17 original tyres would it fit properly ???

and thank you very much

 

Hi there,

The lift kit is from Rocky Road: Suzuki Grand Vitara lift If you have time and tools you can install it yourself, I paid and got it done for me.

You can still find tires for your 17" rims, but remember about higher fuel consumption and weaker high speed acceleration.

I attached the pictures of lifted GV on 30" tires with 17" rims:

 

Thank you Taras for the information

Its not a problem about higher fuel consumption but i dont want weaker high speed acceleration, i have custom made dual muffler & the performance is much better than stock and the sound is amazing =) im thinking now of platinium plugs do u advice me about a good brand ?

 

Hi there,

Do you have a photo of this new exhaust system, hopefully it is up out of the way so you can still do some off roading as a 4wd should be 'off road and muddy'

 

Yup would love to see that exhaust

 

Vesakko i revive this post because i want to ask you what was your Off set (ET) and rim width for 255/70R16 setup? Can i go with 255 for an 8 inch rim width ?I know that normally for 255 it must be 8,5 rim width but i can't find the rims that i want with 8.5 width.

 

anyone know if these guys explode cv's all the time with 3inch lifts? everyone in aus are scared of anything over 2inchs.

 

bump again

 

hi orangeute, i'm using a 3" suspension lift kit and a 3" teflon suspension spacer on my 09 2.4 GV. Haf not busted any CV since mod for past one year.

 

6inch lift?

 

Orangeute - when you lift that model GV you're likely to run into problems with the rear bush on the front control arms - the suspension design is such that the bush has a vertical axis, but is required to flex in a horizontal plane causing the rubber to tear - they are known to fail prematurely on stock height vehicles that see off road use, lifting the vehicle compounds the problem.

I'm a little puzzled as to why you would see the need for extended brake lines, but not ABS lines - if you move the wheels down far enough that the brake lines are too short, why would you expect the ABS lines to still reach?

 

if you drop the subframe 2inch and raise suspension 4inch you are only moving the suspension 2inch more then standard pos with regards to the bush. still would wear out but same as having 2inch spring lift. yeah thinking about it the hard lines go to the strut which would now be a lot lower so would need longer lines rubber ones should be ok since you are only really 2inch lift from strut to wheel.

 

Maybe you should go remove a wheel and see where the lines actually go - the hard lines stop on the frame, the rubber flex lines then goes from the end of the hard line to the caliper and clip to the strut to keep them off the tire - it's usually the flex line that needs to be extended.

The ABS line will do likewise, except that they are an electrical connection - from the frame to the strut to the ABS sensor on the hub near the CV.

 

maybe you should stop acting like you are some Suzuki mega master.

now you i realize he was talking about the abs wires, that's what didn't make sense to me thought he was talking about the brake lines from the abs module woundered why would need to do that.

tell the truth i havnt had a real good look under there with the wheel off, i have had the whole subframe out to take the sump off but didn't take much notice of the brake lines.

recondo - that looks awesome, so much want right there in that pic, pitty so illegal here to do. so how much overall is the lift?

i was going to get a 40-45mm spring lift then later down the track maybe do same as you and drop the subframes and use coil spacers and the strut spacers 50mm so get almost 4inches over stock. maybe even just 25mm spacers to stay semi legal.

 

Here is the pic of my GV.

 

You would not actually need to extend any lines if using the 2inch lift kit as it was manufacture taking into account of suspension travel and to cause minimal changes to any of the lines.

I need to extend mine as i'm using an extreme front strut and a longer rear E3000 procomp. This will equate to longer suspension travel thus the need to extend the lines to prevent from damage at maximum suspension travel/extension.

 

How difficult was the subframe lift to do?

I think it is a much better mechanical solution compared to a taller spacer kit, looking from the CV's point of view.

I got the RR lift on mine, but the CV's are really stretched to their limit, and I get vibrations.. I would love to reconfigure to a lesser lift on the springs, and more on the body, either that, or simply leave the spacers in, but lift the body for lesser angles.

Do you have any documentation on the parts needed, or a supplier you can refer too? Or was it all a custom job?

 

I made a thread about this not so long ago and no one was really interested now someone has posted awesome pics everyone is interested

you still need the spacers, have you 50mm spring lift then add the coil and strut spacers and sub frame spacers and get an extra 50mm but keep the drive shafts in the same position as 50mm lift. then run bigger tires to get more of a lift.

If you have seen my turbo build, I dropped the subframe to get the sump off. it would be pretty easy to space it.

front would need 8 spacers
8 longer bolts
power steering lines might be long enough just might have to bend them a bit
steering would need to be lengthened. some kits have a male to female spline adaptor that slips over the shaft and has a knuckle in it something like that might be available, also could spacer the steering rack back up but then tie rods might be of an angle.

the subframe has location pins which go into holes in the chassis you could not worry about them but alignment might be out or could make a pin that slips over locating pin then other end same as pin that goes into chassis.

the rear would just need spacer blocks for the points plus would want to space the trailing arm down also and maybe add that kit from oda

spacers for the gearbox crossmember

and the longer brake lines

if were tricky could leave centre mount and space engine up then add spacers to the tail and front shafts.

 

Sounds like a fun job for someone with a nice lathe...

Where's MUDCHILD when we need him...

 

I'm a fitter/machinist so lathe work is no problem I got few projects on the go atm but after do 2inch spring lift will prob look into doing spacers. biggest thing is I want to keep motor and box in same pos and just lower diffs which might need some custom engine mounts but shouldn't be to hard to do. just want it to be safe also, was ok when had shitter old 4b could do dodgy mods. now have a family has to be streetable too.

if anyone else is interested prob could make up spacers also or even just draw it all up in cad then just get a shop to make them near you

 

I was put onto this page by Tim from ODA. this guy has done a subframe drop with some pics. you can see the rear ones need a bit of a locating pin on them at the top but easy enough to machine up. there is a place on ebay that does body lift blocks and can do custom ones are about $50 for 8 blocks so prob be $100-150 all up to make all the spacers required.

heres the fb page

https://www.facebook.com/GrandVitaraOffRoad

heres the front spacers which are only 15mm

rears 25mm, one problem I can see is the length of the bolts if went 2-3inch would be really long bolts might be hard to get, some custom ones might be the go.

 

I would be interested in the front kit. I think 15mm would be good to fix my vibrations..

I can't find the place on ebay, have you got a link to it directly?

 

they were custom made by some guy, the guy on ebay can prob make them tho. here is a link to some blocks he is selling

6 X 2 Inch Body Lift Blocks Nissan Patrol GQ GU Landcruiser Hilux Bravo Triton | eBay

also the guy that did 15mm lift also did 7mm spacer for the engine mounts so just dropping the subframe at front and leaving engine and gearbox in same place(7mm on 45deg + roughly 15mm I guess). 15mm must be small enough that he didn't have to do anything with the steering also or the front prop shaft. its got cv joins so prob wouldn't matter a bit more angle on them if you look at them they are not the greatest to start with

 

There's a kit for 7" and 9" it includes front lower arms (extended) with replaceable ball joint, rear arm extended, and a body lift kit. He can also supply you with longer front straut suspension. And this models are usually the 2.7 v6 and 3.2 v6 engines

 

Went to check out of idle curiousity but the page not found. Do you have a later link ?