[casper46]

In the manual for our 2019 Vitara the list is in the Specifications section, page 11-3.

thanks

 

[erwin-m]

Last day of the year brings a minor repair!
The connection on my USB socket was a bit ‘hit or miss’, more than likely over the 6x years of the cars life.. the small USB tongue part had become worn…
a replacement USB socket was £60 online…
To replace….

View attachment 109307
You reacharound around the trim panels through the gap down beside the pedals…

View attachment 109309

in here…

View attachment 109308

there are two retaining lugs in the socket that are easily pressed in by hand which releases the socket that can then pull through for disconnection and replacement.. all in a 60x second job.

View attachment 109310


all is now working a-okay!

Just found this topic to late. Had the port replaced by the dealer. Unfortunately it didn't help, it seems to connect, but after half an hour the connection drops again. The cable to my phone is a new official apple cable. So I think it's the cable behind the port that's the problem. Any thoughts about that and any info about how to replace that cable?

 

[casper46]

Just found this topic to late. Had the port replaced by the dealer. Unfortunately it didn't help, it seems to connect, but after half an hour the connection drops again. The cable to my phone is a new official apple cable. So I think it's the cable behind the port that's the problem. Any thoughts about that and any info about how to replace that cable?

Is your car under warranty?

 

[erwin-m]

Is your car under warranty?

No, I don't have warranty anymore, at least at the car itself.

 

[casper46]

No, I don't have warranty anymore, at least at the car itself.

Thats a shame You can buy a lead from a number of places and this video will give you some idea of what you have to do to gain access to the rear of the unit to replace the lead the bottom part at the socket is easy its the actual socket in the unit itself that is fiddly But someone else may know an easier way look at this video best of luck

 

[erwin-m]

Thats a shame You can buy a lead from a number of places and this video will give you some idea of what you have to do to gain access to the rear of the unit to replace the lead the bottom part at the socket is easy its the actual socket in the unit itself that is fiddly But someone else may know an easier way look at this video best of luck

Thanks, this is interesting. Still in doubt if it's the cable from the headunit to the port, or am I better of with a wireless transmitter as Carlin?

 

[casper46]

Thanks, this is interesting. Still in doubt if it's the cable from the headunit to the port, or am I better of with a wireless transmitter as Carlin?

Sorry cant help ypu with that .What i can say is that when i purchased by vitara which was a year old had same problem as you have and had portreplaced which made no difference and ended up having cable replaced as well and have had no issues since .Does it do the same with a USB stick plugged in because if that is ok then its would seem to point to the apple lead itself also is your firmware in the unit up to date ?

 

[erwin-m]

Sorry cant help ypu with that .What i can say is that when i purchased by vitara which was a year old had same problem as you have and had portreplaced which made no difference and ended up having cable replaced as well and have had no issues since .Does it do the same with a USB stick plugged in because if that is ok then its would seem to point to the apple lead itself also is your firmware in the unit up to date ?

My firmware is up to date. I will try a usb-stick with mp3's. Thanks for thinking with me!

 

[casper46]

My firmware is up to date. I will try a usb-stick with mp3's. Thanks for thinking with me!

See what happens with the stick

 

[martin1977]

A new tyre day last week with a cracking deal coming up on some 225x60x17 Avon AX7’s… so it was off with the Michelin Latitude cross climates and on with these…
id did a lot of reading and apparently this size is commonly used in the Costa Rican owners group!! Amazing the resources you find online…

the rears fitted no problem, on the fronts I had to heat the inner arch liner with a heat gun and press this back by maybe 3-4mm to avoid rubbing on full lock.
asides from that, the speedo error is 60mph dash reading Vs 58mph GPS reading so definitely a margin of error there..
I’ll be spending a lot of time down muddy farmers lanes and tracks as I start the 2025 salmon fishing season, so these should see me okay.

 

[martin1977]

A small change to my cars mudflaps today…
The standard items looked and worked ‘okay’ but never really gave me the look or If I’m being honest; the protection from spray and debris that I wanted. Especially with the ATs and wider wheels….As soon as you venture down some farm tracks… your car is filthy!

So…. some 4mm MSA spec rally mudflaps…These are delivered simply as 4x rectangles that you cut to the shape that you need.

To start: I Took the original items off to make a cardboard template… Then trial fitted this to make sure all angles and sizes were just so…I also marked and used the original holes and fixtures as far as practicable.

Once happy, A really sharp Stanley knife blade had them cut out and fitted in under an hour. I also added some nylon washers to the fixings to give some added strength to the fixture.

A week in and the car is noticeably cleaner, the weather has been kind so not a reflective comparison…. As soon as it rains, I’ll see how they perform. I’m still not 100% on the change (yet) .. If I need to revert back to the original items, its only a 30min task to refit these.

 

[george1976]

Sorry but those mudflaps are ugly is the sense that they ruin the overall look of the vehicle imo.

 

[Joër]

That tire/ wheel combination looks great. How does it affect the fuel consumption?

To be honest, I don't like the mudflaps. But sometimes function is more important.

 

[martin1977]

That tire/ wheel combination looks great. How does it affect the fuel consumption?

To be honest, I don't like the mudflaps. But sometimes function is more important.

good question, I’ve probably lost 1.5mpg over the course of 4wks with the new tyres.. I ran 225x55x17 ATs previously so not a million miles away from the new Avons.
average (mix of city / country roads) is still 39mpg.

im not sold on the new flaps either.. can see them being hooked off soon!

 

[antonisnikas21]

Can you please post the link you bought the usb port?

 

[antonisnikas21]

Last day of the year brings a minor repair!
The connection on my USB socket was a bit ‘hit or miss’, more than likely over the 6x years of the cars life.. the small USB tongue part had become worn…
a replacement USB socket was £60 online…
To replace….

View attachment 109307
You reacharound around the trim panels through the gap down beside the pedals…

View attachment 109309

in here…

View attachment 109308

there are two retaining lugs in the socket that are easily pressed in by hand which releases the socket that can then pull through for disconnection and replacement.. all in a 60x second job.

View attachment 109310


all is now working a-okay!

Can you please post the link you bought the usb port? Thank you!

 

[J.R. Kerry]

Can you please post the link you bought the usb port? Thank you!

I bought one on E-Bay

SUZUKI VITARA S-CROSS, SWIFT GENUINE USB PLUG SOCKET PORT 39105-54P00 | eBay

SUZUKI VITARA S-CROSS, SWIFT GENUINE USB PLUG SOCKET PORT 39105-54P00 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories, Car Parts & Accessories, Interior Parts & Accessories | eBay!

www.ebay.ie

 

[martin1977]

Can you please post the link you bought the usb port? Thank you!

No problem! The link is the same as that below…

Pardon our interruption...

 

[martin1977]

I'd noticed some suspension noise and clunking coming form the front of the virtara over the past month.... mostly at low speed going over rough ground.... Jacking the car up and testing various parts.. its immediately apparent that the OSF drop link has left the chat... also, the OSF Track rod end looked past its best. I'd actually replaced the drop links previously - amazingly this was 2.5yrs ago now!! Drop links are £14 and the Track rod end was £11. Some basic tools are all you need.

First up, get the staff ready and the tools..

I then started on the 'easier' (NSF) side as I only had the drop link to do... best to replace these in pairs as if one fails the other, given its age and use will be pretty worn. for an extra £14.. Im not going to get too excited by it..

the threads always seem to take a punishing on these and can be pain to remove so I coat them up with copper slip. the passenger side came off without issue...

A rookie mistake was made here...
As I'm changing the track rod end on the driver side, and will need the tracking reset afterwards..... I SHOULD have ordered a replacement track rod end for the NSF.. at £11.. you'd think this is a no brainer... lesson learned for next time!! replace both and then have the tracking done.

On the OSF, the side with the issue, the droplink was in a far worse state.. I ended up cutting both bolts off of this with an angle grinder due to the poor condition of the threads.

A good spray up with WD40 (penetrating oil) in advance always helps.

The other track rod end is due for delivery this week, the majority of the work is done so should only be 10 mins to replace this... I'll do a better 'change' write up on how to do this when the track rod end is delivered.

Having replaced both drop links and worn track rod end.. the issues I was having are now fully resolved.
A wheel alignment and MOT next week are the next ownership duties that I need to undertake.

 

[kelisko]

I'd noticed some suspension noise and clunking coming form the front of the virtara over the past month.... mostly at low speed going over rough ground.... Jacking the car up and testing various parts.. its immediately apparent that the OSF drop link has left the chat... also, the OSF Track rod end looked past its best. I'd actually replaced the drop links previously - amazingly this was 2.5yrs ago now!! Drop links are £14 and the Track rod end was £11. Some basic tools are all you need.

View attachment 123136
First up, get the staff ready and the tools..

I then started on the 'easier' (NSF) side as I only had the drop link to do... best to replace these in pairs as if one fails the other, given its age and use will be pretty worn. for an extra £14.. Im not going to get too excited by it..
View attachment 123137

the threads always seem to take a punishing on these and can be pain to remove so I coat them up with copper slip. the passenger side came off without issue...

View attachment 123138

View attachment 123139

A rookie mistake was made here...
As I'm changing the track rod end on the driver side, and will need the tracking reset afterwards..... I SHOULD have ordered a replacement track rod end for the NSF.. at £11.. you'd think this is a no brainer... lesson learned for next time!! replace both and then have the tracking done.

On the OSF, the side with the issue, the droplink was in a far worse state.. I ended up cutting both bolts off of this with an angle grinder due to the poor condition of the threads.

View attachment 123140

A good spray up with WD40 (penetrating oil) in advance always helps.


View attachment 123141
View attachment 123142


The other track rod end is due for delivery this week, the majority of the work is done so should only be 10 mins to replace this... I'll do a better 'change' write up on how to do this when the track rod end is delivered.

Having replaced both drop links and worn track rod end.. the issues I was having are now fully resolved.
A wheel alignment and MOT next week are the next ownership duties that I need to undertake.

Thanks for sharing this. Can I hire your assistant?