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2000 Grand Vitara 2.5L V6 Manual Trans Dying at Idle/Downshift and Overheating Issues

4.3K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  CSD1270  
#1 ·
Hello everybody, im quite new here and not the greatest when it comes to working on vehicles(getting there). Anyways heres some background, I have a 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5l v6 engine, manual transmission, 207k miles. The issues i am having are overheating and the car will die/stall at idle or downshifting. The car was in Texas its whole life until i bought it and now it is in the harsh cold of Wisconsin.

Overheating- I replaced the thermostat about 2 weeks ago after having the car heat up to red and spray coolant out of the overflow tank. It drove fine up until yesterday when i noticed it slightly overheating. the temp gauge usually sits just below 1/2, it climbed to about 3/4 on the highway and once i was off dropped down to just over 1/2, so still running a bit warmer than usual at less than highway speeds. i was able to hear what sounded like boiling coming from under the hood, couldnt pinpoint exactly where it was coming from.

Die/stall at idle/downshift- This has been a recurring issue that seems to come and go. it occurs usually when engine is warmed up, upon stopping/downshifting/going into neutral the car will drop RPMs and stall out. Usually it starts right back up no problem, but yesterday(same day my car began overheating again) it would struggle a bit when restarting it, but i was able to get it going again without much trouble. Ive run fuel injector cleaner through within the past week.

My question is, can these issues be related? also where should i go from here for both diagnostics and repair? im a pretty broke college student so dont really have cash to bring it to a shop nor throw a bunch of parts on it that were not the issue. any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you

-Dougstep
 
#3 ·
Get us the precise codes for a better evaluation. Your symptoms may also be MAF related as they present.

The overheating issue...if the radiator is original, I suspect that it is partially clogged with debris. View the inner tubes via the fill cap and report back please. The good news is that new radiators are inexpensive.

Check too that your engine driven fan clutch is engaging. With the engine freshly secured and HOT, the fan should hand turn with significant resistance. If free to spin, the clutch is shot.

Also give the injector cleaner a chance to work. Try SeaFoam, if not already in use.

Welcome aboard too Dougie! :)
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the reply Max, I believe radiator is original. I'll inspect today first chance i get. Also will inspect the MAF today and report back first chance i get. The fuel injector cleaner i ran through was not seafoam so ill get a can of that to put through as well. in the meantime here are the specific codes i was given when I brought my car in for emissions.

off the emissions sheet the codes are...

P0172: System too rich(Bank 1)
P0175: System too rich(Bank 2)
P1410: Manufacturer specifc code- no description available.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the reply Max, I believe radiator is original. I'll inspect today first chance i get.
I'm fairly certain that your overheating problems are due to a clogged radiator, as max first suggested. I just corrected this problem in my 03 vitara yesterday that was exhibiting the same symptoms as yours. Coolant kept belching out of the filler neck with the cap off....with the cap on, the system pushed coolant into the overflow tank and steaming/leaking out of the cap.

Popped a new radiator in there and problem is fixed....no more overheating or coolant coming out of places it shouldnt.
 
#5 ·
Adding to Max's advice, make sure you are using a good quality glycol based coolant. Plain water will boil at a lower temperature, greatly reducing your coolant system capabilities.

About the codes P0172 and P0175, found this online:

"A code P0172 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
- The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. There could be a vacuum leak. There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem"

Possible Solutions Possible solutions include:
-Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
-Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
-Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
-Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
-Check the fuel injectors, they may be dirty. Use fuel injector cleaner or get them professionally cleaned/replaced.
-Check for an exhaust leak before the first oxygen sensor (this is unlikely to cause the problem, but it is possible)

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0172
Copyright OBD-Codes.com"

The other code, P1410, redirects to a malfunctioning EGR.

=======
About the overheating / stalling issue: a badly overheating engine can warp the engine head(s), thus making the seal against the block surface fail, and loose compression in certain conditions.
Check carefully for signs of oil in the coolant (oil eyes on the surface, oily radiator inner surface) or coolant on the oil (oil level rise, milky chocolate looking oil).
Any of these signs would mean a costly repair. Hopefully this is not the case.


Hope any of this info is helpful.
 
#6 ·
Check the FAQ thread at the top of this section. There you will find the two-volume Service Manual link that you inquired about in PM and info as to cleaning the MAF is there as well. :)
 
#7 ·
Code P1410 Fuel Tank Pressure Control System

Renew the fuel tank cap for starters.

Beyond that, an Evaporative Fuel System problem may exist. The Purge Valve or interconnecting hose circuit would be where I'd continue to troubleshoot.
 
#8 ·
It should be noted that if the purge valve is stuck open you will see a rich mixture.

Best to check that with a scanner capable of displaying fuel trims, then pinch off the vent line from the canister.. Running rich via this fault will send the ECU into a reduced fuel injection pulse/duration and cause driveabilty issues.

... Philip