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1995 Suzuki Swift

3.8K views 138 replies 6 participants last post by  mphawkins83  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All. Have had a 95 Swift for two years, put about 50,000 miles on it driving cross country a few times and it did great. Have been in the northeast for about a year and starting to have some troubles... the car's electrical system had some work done prior to buying it and everything worked. Recently the blinkers have stopped working intermittently and today it seems like they stopped working altogether along with the headlights! No daytime running lights nothing. I'm looking for a diagram of the fuses under the dash which I can see but there's two that are not horizontal that are not labeled and I don't know what they're for. Also the relays, there are a couple I don't know what they're for. The dashboard light that comes on when you turn on your headlights also does not come on; individual dash lights ie emergency break light, shift arrow etc do come on. Going to try the main relay. Lastly where is the horn relay..? When trying to fix the blinkers today I found a 30 amp fuse in the relay box that was blown and replaced that. The blinkers were working at this time and after replacing this fuse I hoped that it solved the problem but unfortunately a few hours later everything stopped working. Entertainingly the horn also stopped working after I changed that fuse. I went back and pushed all the relays in that I had taken out as well as the fuses to see if something was loose and still no horn. So we have a car with no headlights no blinkers and no horn. Lol . . it's an adventure :]
Any suggestions welcome thanks in advance
 
#76 ·
In re-reading post #1, it appears no blinkers, no headlights, no horn. DRL was not working but now is. Shift arrows on the dash work. When replacing the 30 amp fuse, the blinkers worked for a while and then stopped. ???
 
#80 ·
If you look at page 10 of the wiring diagram you posted, it appears that the turn signal lights on your dash (which you advise work) are activated by the same switch in the combination switch as the turn signals on the car body.
 
#83 ·
Horn now works??
Thank you

Components not working or failing:
Blinkers - all four external, arrows on dash.
Hazards - all four
High beams - will check bulbs
PTC 30A fuse in small relay box under hood

Components that are working:
Windshield wipers
Heater fan on any setting except high
Rear window defrost - this never worked
Emergency brake light staus lit on dash
Shift arrow stays lit on dash
Also DRL work
 
#84 · (Edited)
Re-did list - am only needing blinkers hazards and high beams to work

Components not working or failing:

Blinkers - all four external, arrows on dash.
Hazards - all four
High beams - will check bulbs
PTC 30A fuse in small relay box under hood-FIXED with EFE unplug
Rear window defrost - this never worked
Emergency brake light stays lit on dash
Shift arrow stays lit on dash
Heater fan on any setting except high


Components that are working:

Windshield wipers
Windshield washer fluid spray
DRL
Headlights
Parking lights [these are different lights than the blinkers]
Horn
Inside dashboard light
Cabin light
Door ajar and key in ignition beeping
 
#85 ·
Thanks for the clarification. In your first post, you advise that when you replaced the blown 30 amp fuse, some things started to work again and then stopped. I‘d be curious at finding that connector to the EFE heater, that this 30 amp fuse controls, and disconnect it, to see if the fuse still blows at ignition on, and if anything that wasn’t working starts to work again.
How did DRL, headlights, horn, etc., start working again, when early on in this thread they weren’t working?
 
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#87 ·
The DRL, headlights, horn, etc weren't working because I had put the 40A relay / fuse back in the wrong spot... that's what actually prompted me to write the post here... make sense? The initial problem that prompted me to move the 40A fuse and test that is the blinkers and hazards not working..
 
#86 ·
Update:

Found EFE and unplugged it, 30A fuse did not blow on startup

Blinkers and hazards still not working

Mechanic who helped said to leave the EFE unplugged it didn't really serve a purpose he thought but said he wasn't 100 percent sure -my eyes bulging as a don't want to leave something and make everything make anything worse

It's currently unplugged drove from mechanic to grocery store that way
 
#89 ·
I don’t have a Metro parts catalog, so cannot confirm that a 01 Metro combination switch would be compatible with your car…..
REgarding the EFE heater, Fordem advises that it might make the engine difficult to start or run rough. Now that it’s disconnected, does this happen??
 
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#91 ·
Not yet but am liable to reconnect.
when I asked him if I should get a new one he said made like it was irrelevant it was a part that doesn't really do anything that car manufacturers were putting in cars at that time .. does anyone think I should replace this the EFE..?
Car has run fine so far thankfully with the 30A blown and no risks taken with this car!
 
#101 ·
If anyone can see if they find the EFE fuse / relay or directional assembly here on rockauto.com I'd be grateful
Just want to make sure am not missing it

 
#104 ·
I’m reading the rest of your posts, but disconnect that EFE. You probably don’t need it. Run the car and see if you find that it does not run well without it. I think (hope) you’ll find that there was no need for this in an fuel injected engine.
 
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#107 ·
That is pretty much what the mechanic said.. with the caveat that he wasn't 100% certain.. am really nervous to do anything different you know old cars you change one thing n the whole thing falls apart can't risk it
Would it potentially stop the 30 amp fuse from blowing to replace the efe? Do you think the efe is failing causing the 30 amp to blow or there's a short between it and the PTC fuse causing it to blow?
 
#105 ·
I don’t have a parts manual for your car, but perhaps the combination switch for your car is also made for others, or aftermarket. If you (or anyone) can find the part number, sometimes if you put it into yoyopart.com you can find other cars that use this same combination switch.
 
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#106 ·
E-Torx is what it's called and what you're doing is removing the air-bag, you haven't yet gotten to the nut holding the steering wheel.
I don’t have a parts manual for your car, but perhaps the combination switch for your car is also made for others, or aftermarket. If you (or anyone) can find the part number, sometimes if you put it into yoyopart.com you can find other cars that use this same combination switch.
Thank you***
 
#109 · (Edited)
Re-did list - am only needing blinkers and hazards to work.. high beams too but not imperative at this time - can drive during day without them - rightnow am stuck with no blinkers...

Components not working or failing:
  • Blinkers - all four external, arrows on dash.
  • Hazards - all four
  • High beams - will check bulbs
  • PTC 30A fuse in small relay box under hood blows on startup- unplugging efe and it doesn't blow
  • Rear window defrost - this never worked
  • Emergency brake light stays lit on dash
  • Shift arrow stays lit on dash
  • Heater fan on any setting except high
Components that are working:

-Windshield wipers
-Windshield washer fluid spray
-DRL
-Headlights
-Parking lights [these are different lights than the blinkers]
-Horn
-Inside dashboard light
-Interior dome light
-Door ajar and key in ignition beeping
 
#110 ·
The heater fan works off of a resistor. When that resistor stops working, the heater fan will only work on high speed.
PTC fuse. Use Fordem’s suggestion. Just remove the fuse.
I’d check wiring for everything else. You have the diagrams, so you should be able to check for voltage/resistance on each of the wiring circuits for the following things that aren’t working:
Blinkers/hazards. Both work off of the turn signal relay. You may want to check the wiring going to that.
High beams.. Probably unlikely that both bulbs burned out at the same time. High beams work off of a separate wire circuit than the low beams. So again, check the wiring.
Emergency brake light. Works off of a switch and wiring.
Shift arrow. Also switch and wiring.
 
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#112 ·
When you check the wiring for the turn signal relay, you have battery voltage going to the relay, correct? And if you turn on, say, your blinkers and then check the wiring coming out from the turn signal relay, do you get voltage going on and off (like a blinker would) or nothing??