I decided to google wiring diagrams for your car, and found this (for a 1994). These diagrams may help:

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Suzuki/Swift/1994%20Suzuki%20Swift%20Wiring%20Diagrams.pdf

You don’t advise what ’work’ the electrical system had done on it (and by who), but unless you’re familiar with the car’s electrical system, it might be a suggestion to go back to the people who did the work (unless they are the cause of your current problems).

 

I believe the 94 (SF Series) & 95 (SW Series) are quite different when it comes to wiring & especially headlight wiring.

 

A

Thank you. Sadly, I was unable to find any online 1995 diagrams, although there is an electrical supplement for sale on ebay.

Pardon Our Interruption...

???

 

Thanks all. Yes hard to find info online.

The electrical work done is unknown, I could tell things were done by the appearance of new wiring, near fuses under dash. It looks like good work. My pup chewed the blinker mechanism so maybe this is part of it lol. But why would the horn stop working ..?

 

I don’t have a diagram, but it’s possible that the blinkers and horn might share a common ground, or fuse???

 

Will check all fuses again.. only one that keeps blowing is a 30a fuse under hood in smaller relay box labeled PTC

 

The PTC fuse in the smaller relay box under hood keeps blowing, as in I put in a new one and it blows after within a couple hours or less; any ideas?

 

Checked battery and alternator, both testing as good

 

Replaced flasher relay onback side of fuse box under dash and no luck

 

Not having your diagram, it’s difficult for me to ascertain what this runs, but normally a 30amp fuse under the hood (a fusible link) will run a number of components in the car. There should be a number of large amp fuses in the engine bay that connect to various fuses under the dash. For example, in my car, the 30 amp fusible link covers the RWAL brake system. If you’re lucky, the wiring coming out of that 30 amp fuse may coincide to one or more fuses under the dash. Conversely, you should be noticing some components that are not working when the fuse is blown. Frankly, if the Swift wiring diagram in the ebay link above is for your car, I’d probably grab it. It’s difficult doing any wiring repair without having diagrams.

 

Found this on scribd free with a trial.. I haven't used wiring diagrams before, is this what you're referring to...

 

The wiring out of the small relay box under hood where 30a fuse is blowing is bundled and tight, nothing noticeable, am not going to take it apart, have not done wiring and this car is like an old person if it falls over it might not get up and I don't want to make something worse. The fuse that keeps blowing sits in the empty spot above the 15a fuse in photo

 

Those diagrams are from an after-market source, meaning they are not "Suzuki official", they are not the easiest to read, but they are better than not having anything at all.

 

Just realized no brake lights either - ahhhhhhh!!!!
Car can't be used to drive anywhere not even during the day

Am a retired early professional sailor [stewardess / deckhand / cook] and have been sleeping in the car with the pup waiting for an apartment / cabin to open up that I can afford so not having a functioning vehicle is a challenge... there is no public transit here... and safety is also an issue... going to keep working on it over the weekend Napa is open tomorrow for a few hours have been using their tools and buying parts as I go...

 

The EFE (PTC) relay (30 amp) on page 16 of the Scrbd link??? That’s a great find, Fordem, and hopefully will be helpful to welikedill…..

 

Well - that puzzled me also - good luck figuring that out from the diagram.

Above is from page 16, shows eight fuses, below is the main box, shows nine...

Diagram shows two 30A fuses, box shows two plus the empty spot in which he says the 30A keeps blowing - did the box have a lid to identify which fuse is which?

 

Has anybody checked the tail/brake lamps?, not uncommon for a brake filament to fail, drop over the internal stand-offs and short to ground is the result.

 

Thanks mate will check that

 

Pg 8 shows the PTC fuse (#6) powering the contacts of the EFE relay which powers the EFE heater on the right side of the engine.

I had to look that one up - Early Fuel Evaporator - and I did not expect to see one on an EFI engine, but it's there, a thin heater sitting between the intake manifold & the throttle body injection unit - it might make the engine hard to start or cause rough running when it's cold, but apparently unrelated to the lighting issues.

 

In that case, the heater element has possibly developed a fault and is shorted to ground?

 

Look at page 16. Brake light, headlights, horn, etc…..all work off of a 40 amp fuse (that should be next to the 70 amp fuse for the generator. There is no fuse under that 70 amp one, in the photo……????
And by the way, I’m really glad that someone else had to look up EFE, as well. I had no idea what it was…..

 

Re EFE, me neither! lol

 

Why are there fuses missing under the 70 amp generator fuse??

 

Omgoodness... lol
Started car and loud buzzing sound coming out near dashboard.. turned car off as I was nervous this was a warning sign. waited a minute and turned car back on and buzzing sound came on. Pushed hazards button which is where the sound is coming from and the sound stopped LOL. Repeated that a few times and the sound would stop when the flashers button was down mind you no flashers turned on. Lol. I drove a little bit to a new parking space and turn the car off. then turn the car back on and no buzzing sound. Put it in first gear and buzzing sound came on. Stepped on the break and buzzing sound turned off. taking foot off the break buzzing sound comes back on. Lol
This is funny!

Link to 1 minute video of above too big to attach

 

So weird 😕 my 1995 Suzuki Swift HB 4cyl 1.3 sohc 5pd ABS purple her name is Smudge 224,000km + she's never done this. Must be a corroded wire or fuse?

 

This car is the base model swift, 5 speed manual, no a/c, no ABS, manual windows and door locks, so may be why there are less fuses and relays where there would be some in those spots. The cover for the relay boxes under the hood have labels for each fuse and so there's nothing in the space for the AC, ABS etc

 

Can you upload a photo of the cover for the fusible link box (with the 70 amp fuse) that you photographed? Regarding the hazard light noise, I suspect that might have been turn lamp relay buzzing. It’s located behind the dash in your car, I think. The wiring diagrams that Fordem found can be a bit complicated, but that fusible link box feeds everything, so probably a good place to start, particularly as you have a whole load of things that aren’t working.

 

Yes, will do asap wif phone charges enough for flash to work or in daylight tomorrow, getting dark now on east coast
Thank you!!!

 

Ahh - not my diagrams, I think he found those himself.

 

Oops. You’re right. The two avatars look very similar….F and F. I take back my compliment to you of the diagrams being a good find…..

 

Photos of relay and fuse boxes in engine bay

 

I notice the 40A Lamp fuse slot is empty, should we assume that the green fuse in the "unmarked" slot needs to be moved to the lamp slot?

 

This car has no ABS which is why that slot is empty...

It's possible that whoever did the wiring on this car set it up a certain way and it's not the original way... everything worked great for 2 years and 50,000 miles and I'm going to leave the green fuse where it is for now... I didn't move it anywhereI haven't moved any just tested