Not sure if we can help...

You are assuming that only the usual timing components need replacing yet the engine hasn't been inspected for other possible related failure needs (heads, cams, ?) correct? The selection of OE or knock-off parts choice will additionally skew the cost.

Hard to come up with a price w/o that info.

Either way...your best bet is to have this engine disassembled / assessed locally by a reputable mechanic, IMO.

As far as unloading it afterwards... you are the go-to-guy in that business area in determining if a used / repaired 3.6L is a marketable commodity in NJ. Or whether to just sell the known good parts off the block and scrap the rest, for that matter.

 

You are assuming that only the usual timing components need replacing yet the engine hasn't been inspected for other possible related failure needs (heads, cams, ?) correct? The selection of OE or knock-off parts choice will additionally skew the cost.

Hard to come up with a price w/o that info.

Either way...your best bet is to have this engine disassembled / assessed locally by a reputable mechanic, IMO.

As far as unloading it afterwards... you are the go-to-guy in that business area in determining if a used / repaired 3.6L is a marketable commodity in NJ. Or whether to just sell the known good parts off the block and scrap the rest, for that matter.

correct, It hasn't been examined at all. It's completely intact and I havent tried to start it...We got it for a good price and see the engines selling for big bucks on car-part.com and Ebay. I'm trying to form a plan of attack.

 

Well, IMO...nothing sells better than a used engine you can hear run and carries some sort of warrantee.
Maintenance records would be a plus, if you have them.

I'd get her running, and NOT mess with the timing chain components it it were mine to sell.

 

If I'm gonna sell it for anywhere near 2g I certainly have to warranty it for 3-6 months..I would like to hear it run I'm just worried about additional damage.? I'd like to give it a compression test. I would be more than happy to sell it as is for 1000 but am not sure I could get that. nay on the maintenance history unfortunately

 

I may be interested in the engine. What's wrong with it. Are the chains broken?

 

If the engine is questionable, do not spin it (compression test). Confirm engine condition first (leaK-DOWN)

.... Philip

 

You bring up a good point Naut'. One area on concern that has bugged me though and I've never brought it up is...to acquire a leak-down perimeter seal, one would have to rotate the engine to get each cylinder's valves in the closed position. At least on some of them not already closed off, so to speak.

Yeah, turning the engine by hand until hitting an immovable object (open valve) might work, but is chancy. Still then, you wouldn't be able to achieve a full test of all cylinders due to having to stop the test process. :huh:

My other concern is the engine wanting to inadvertently rotate (when the piston is not at the top or bottom of stroke) with the introduced test air-pressure and allow an adjacent cylinder / piston to contact a maybe open valve.

I guess that my point is, even a leak-down test may not be engine safe when troubleshooting a possible valve timing issue.

 

I always turn by hand, and if there is a possibility of run through, vice grips on ring gear...

Remember we are using <50psi on the feed line, with a restriction in the gauge set...

..... Philip

 

I hear ya'. But I'm still concerned about open valves and the need to rotate the engine to acquire a pressure boundary.

I guess the safest bet is to actually gently turn the engine by hand through two full 360 degree revolutions, to ensure that there is no valve contact.

Heck, if we do that, then there is no reason for not using a standard COMPRESSION test at that point, right?
Thus my quandary as to leak-downs being the "safest" way to go.

 

I was working on the premise of unknown history with possible chain issues,, so no I would not spin it mechanically (starter)...

But, as you know, I can be quite anal about diagnostics...

.... Philip

 

Leak down tests aren't very accurate on these engines. They fail all the time.
Especially after rotating by hand.
They build a lot of carbon and the engine needs to spinning fast for the valve to seal properly.
I've been fooled a couple times.

This engine was fine.

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What I do is just look to see if there is any gap between the valve lifter and cam
Also turn the cam a few degrees either way, if it springs back to neutral position nicely, the valves are usually fine.