Well, as many of you know, I recently bought a 1999 Grand Vitara JLX, 4x4. I run the mail with it so it's imperative that it's in good running 1999 or I would lose my job. Thursday I noticed and oil burning smell after driving 30 miles. Upon further inspection I noticed oil was leaking from what appeared to be the drain plug and flying onto the crossover pipe. So I thought that I'd just buy a new gasket and replace it. Well, no. Upon closer inspection, oil was dripping from the rear side of the oil galley, or oil pan #1.
At a higher RPM, maybe 1200 to 2000, the oil seeped very rapidly onto the bolt heads and down. So I thought it must be the upper pan seal. While I'm still not sure that's what it was because it's not running yet, the bellhousing and flywheel were very dry. So no rear main seal.
Contrary to what information that one may find, the engine, even in a 4x4, does not need to be removed, or even lifted. However, the differential and the steering rack MUST BE removed. It is a requirement, you will not get that upper pan out in any other fashion.
Some tools: a swivel 10MM socket will be acceptable. A universal joint may work but you lose so much torque. A 14MM short socket will do the trick for all the items involving the differential including the drive shaft and mounting bolts. You'll need extensions and possibly and impact to at least break torque on the drive shafts bolts. And for re installation as well. All of these are 3/8 drive. You'll also need a 12MM socket for the two longer bolts at the rear of the upper pan.
What kind of gasket do I use? None. The upper pan, as is common in most foreign automotive applications uses a sealant of some sort, typically FIPG or form in place gasket. I had a bottle from my days at the JDM shop. However, the lower oil pan does use a gasket. Mine was FIPG'd on which tells me someone was in there before. I also get the feeling someone had done the upper pan at one time. However it was grey which tells me that it's factory. However it seemed very thin and the bolts had little caps of it on the ends so I am certain someone had repaired it before.
What all needs to come out?! Well, first the differential and also the steering rack.
OK so how do I get the differential out? Isn't it heavy? Do I need a jack? Suprusingly, no. The differential is rather light and small. I went for the more difficult approach. There is an easier way. The differential mounts to the chassis via three points. One on top of the cross member. Another bracket with the rubber insulator on the driver side and another with an insulator on the passenger side. You have two options here: you can remove the through mounting bolt from the bracket and isolators for the passenger and driver side, then remove the two bolts with nuts on the center mount, and finally two smaller bolts that hold the actual mount to the cross member (don't forget to mark the drive shafts position prior to removal). OR you can remove the three bolts from the driver side bracket, all 14MM, you can get the first with a socket and ratchet the rest you'll need a wrench. On the passenger side you'll need to remove four bolts. All 14MM, and can be removed with a ratchet. Next there are two bolts that hold the differential to the mount. These have nuts and are 14MM. Next you'll need to remove the two smaller, shorter 14MM bolts underneath the mount under the cross member. After that, and if you unbolted the drive shaft, you are nearly there. Next you'll need to remove the flange style CV shaft from the driver side. You'll either need the wheel removed or off the ground so you can turn the shaft to disconnect the bolts. There are 3 bolts, 14MM with nuts. After that, you'll need to remove the passenger side CV shaft. I was able to kind of remove it by pulled the duff away at an angle. You'll need to discover your own technique due to the fact that your shaft might have been replaced. After this, you can pull the differential away from the drive shaft and it'll fall out of that cavity.
Now what? Doesn't look much easier to get to man! Well, with the diff out if the way, it gives you so much more room. You may gain just a bit more rear end clearance by removing the flywheel examination cover or torque converter access plate. Now you'll pretty much see all the bolts on the oil pan. Of course, there are a total of four on the rear oil pan. There are two longer 12MM fasteners and two 10MM fasteners. It is easier to see them if you look up into the holes on the cross member. You can see the left two without doing that but you'll certainly need to do that for the other two.
The next step would be to drain the engine oil. You can either reuse it or you can even put new oil in after the job. I'd let it drain for a good five minutes so that when you remove the lower pan or pan #2, then you won't spill oil. What a mess! After draining the oil you'll notice that there are several 10MM fasteners around the top that connect the lower pan to the galley. I think there are 10 bolts and 2 nuts? I can't recall. However you can remove most of them with a 10MM socket with an extension. Now there is one that is difficult to access on the far side above the cross member. I took my 10MM swivel and removed it. You could also use a universal joint. However the joint will bind between the oil pan and cross member.
After that, the pan will still stay, it's most likely held on by gasket material. You'll need to gently pry on it to separate it. After it's removed, you'll see the strainer and the sides of the upper oil pan.
Now what? It can come out? No, not yet. In my opinion, this is the second most difficult part. You'll need to remove the steering gear. This will require some skill. What I did was mark the output shaft to the input shaft with paint. This will make it easier to re-align. Make sure to not move the steering wheel although it really doesn't matter on this vehicle. With the wheels removed, you'll first need to remove the tie rod end nuts. Both are 16MM. Next you'll need to remove the four 14MM fasteners that hold the gear to the front cross member. These are very tight, most likely the tightest bolts I encountered this entire job. I had to use a hammer and hit the ratchet. After you remove them, then you can lower the gear. You'll need to mark the shafts as mentioned prior, and disconnect them at the junction. You'll need to pry the screw clamped junction. Afterwards you can lower the gear and you'll see the high and low pressure hoses. They are both 19MM fittings. These come off very easily. I prefer to remove these from the bottom since it's hard to get torque on them when they are so deep inside the engine bay. Remember which hose goes where. I drained the fluid and replaced it anyways. Next, you'll need to rotate the gear forward with the fittings for the hoses facing towards the front. You or a helper can then pull the gear through the passenger side wheel well. If you move the shaft, it is no big deal, unless you don't want to pay for an alignment. Then you'll need to make sure it doesn't rotate more than one revolution from a stationary point.
Now, you can finally remove the upper pan. There are many 10MM fasteners. Maybe 15 or so. There are two nuts near the front corners as well. They maybe torqued tight, so be cautious not to round these off. If you do, then you have a bad situation on your hands. Recall that the rear bolts (2 10MM and 2 12MM bolts) are more easily accessible from looking up in the holes of the cross member. After you have removed all of these fasteners you'll still have one more, it's a 10MM bolt, short, that holds the radiator outlet pipe to the clamp on the upper pan. Next you'll need to remove the bracket the holds the strainer to the upper oil pan, it's at the back side of the hole that the lower oil pan bolts to. And do no forget that there are also 2 10MM bolts inside the hole where the lower oil pan once was. If you look up, you will see them.
Why isn't it coming off?! You'll need to recheck all the fasteners. Two or three times even. That is imperative, especially the four in the rear. If you're certain you have all the fasteners off, you'll need to pry the pan off. I can't really say how since everyone will choose a different spot. Just take it slow and find a big piece that won't break. After that it should fall down. If some oil comes out, be careful.
What? Why the heck won't this thing clear that dumb pipe and cross member?! Well, you'll need to pull the pan down and locate the two bolts that hold the elongated strainer tube to the rear side of the oil pump. After that, you can detach the tube and you will be able to finally remove the pan.
As far as cleaning goes, use a few cans of brake parts cleaner and a lightly abrasive grinding wheel or even a razor knife to clean the mating surfaces of the upper galley and lower engine crankcase bearing assembly.
Re installation is reverse of removal, however I can say that I'd let the new seal cure for just a few minutes before installing the upper pan. It's difficult to screw in the bolts that hold the elongated tube to the oil pump with out smearing FIPG and ruining the seal. Make sure the strainer is inside the pan and at least connected to the pump before moving the pan up. It's hard to start those two bolts due too poor visibility and attempting not to smear the seal. After you have those bolts in tight, you can begin to bolt the pan back in.
As stated prior, I installed everything in the same exact manner i took it off. I hope this can help people, it is hard to find this information at all. If you have any questions, please ask here or in a message and I'll be happy to answer them.
At a higher RPM, maybe 1200 to 2000, the oil seeped very rapidly onto the bolt heads and down. So I thought it must be the upper pan seal. While I'm still not sure that's what it was because it's not running yet, the bellhousing and flywheel were very dry. So no rear main seal.
Contrary to what information that one may find, the engine, even in a 4x4, does not need to be removed, or even lifted. However, the differential and the steering rack MUST BE removed. It is a requirement, you will not get that upper pan out in any other fashion.
Some tools: a swivel 10MM socket will be acceptable. A universal joint may work but you lose so much torque. A 14MM short socket will do the trick for all the items involving the differential including the drive shaft and mounting bolts. You'll need extensions and possibly and impact to at least break torque on the drive shafts bolts. And for re installation as well. All of these are 3/8 drive. You'll also need a 12MM socket for the two longer bolts at the rear of the upper pan.
What kind of gasket do I use? None. The upper pan, as is common in most foreign automotive applications uses a sealant of some sort, typically FIPG or form in place gasket. I had a bottle from my days at the JDM shop. However, the lower oil pan does use a gasket. Mine was FIPG'd on which tells me someone was in there before. I also get the feeling someone had done the upper pan at one time. However it was grey which tells me that it's factory. However it seemed very thin and the bolts had little caps of it on the ends so I am certain someone had repaired it before.
What all needs to come out?! Well, first the differential and also the steering rack.
OK so how do I get the differential out? Isn't it heavy? Do I need a jack? Suprusingly, no. The differential is rather light and small. I went for the more difficult approach. There is an easier way. The differential mounts to the chassis via three points. One on top of the cross member. Another bracket with the rubber insulator on the driver side and another with an insulator on the passenger side. You have two options here: you can remove the through mounting bolt from the bracket and isolators for the passenger and driver side, then remove the two bolts with nuts on the center mount, and finally two smaller bolts that hold the actual mount to the cross member (don't forget to mark the drive shafts position prior to removal). OR you can remove the three bolts from the driver side bracket, all 14MM, you can get the first with a socket and ratchet the rest you'll need a wrench. On the passenger side you'll need to remove four bolts. All 14MM, and can be removed with a ratchet. Next there are two bolts that hold the differential to the mount. These have nuts and are 14MM. Next you'll need to remove the two smaller, shorter 14MM bolts underneath the mount under the cross member. After that, and if you unbolted the drive shaft, you are nearly there. Next you'll need to remove the flange style CV shaft from the driver side. You'll either need the wheel removed or off the ground so you can turn the shaft to disconnect the bolts. There are 3 bolts, 14MM with nuts. After that, you'll need to remove the passenger side CV shaft. I was able to kind of remove it by pulled the duff away at an angle. You'll need to discover your own technique due to the fact that your shaft might have been replaced. After this, you can pull the differential away from the drive shaft and it'll fall out of that cavity.
Now what? Doesn't look much easier to get to man! Well, with the diff out if the way, it gives you so much more room. You may gain just a bit more rear end clearance by removing the flywheel examination cover or torque converter access plate. Now you'll pretty much see all the bolts on the oil pan. Of course, there are a total of four on the rear oil pan. There are two longer 12MM fasteners and two 10MM fasteners. It is easier to see them if you look up into the holes on the cross member. You can see the left two without doing that but you'll certainly need to do that for the other two.
The next step would be to drain the engine oil. You can either reuse it or you can even put new oil in after the job. I'd let it drain for a good five minutes so that when you remove the lower pan or pan #2, then you won't spill oil. What a mess! After draining the oil you'll notice that there are several 10MM fasteners around the top that connect the lower pan to the galley. I think there are 10 bolts and 2 nuts? I can't recall. However you can remove most of them with a 10MM socket with an extension. Now there is one that is difficult to access on the far side above the cross member. I took my 10MM swivel and removed it. You could also use a universal joint. However the joint will bind between the oil pan and cross member.
After that, the pan will still stay, it's most likely held on by gasket material. You'll need to gently pry on it to separate it. After it's removed, you'll see the strainer and the sides of the upper oil pan.
Now what? It can come out? No, not yet. In my opinion, this is the second most difficult part. You'll need to remove the steering gear. This will require some skill. What I did was mark the output shaft to the input shaft with paint. This will make it easier to re-align. Make sure to not move the steering wheel although it really doesn't matter on this vehicle. With the wheels removed, you'll first need to remove the tie rod end nuts. Both are 16MM. Next you'll need to remove the four 14MM fasteners that hold the gear to the front cross member. These are very tight, most likely the tightest bolts I encountered this entire job. I had to use a hammer and hit the ratchet. After you remove them, then you can lower the gear. You'll need to mark the shafts as mentioned prior, and disconnect them at the junction. You'll need to pry the screw clamped junction. Afterwards you can lower the gear and you'll see the high and low pressure hoses. They are both 19MM fittings. These come off very easily. I prefer to remove these from the bottom since it's hard to get torque on them when they are so deep inside the engine bay. Remember which hose goes where. I drained the fluid and replaced it anyways. Next, you'll need to rotate the gear forward with the fittings for the hoses facing towards the front. You or a helper can then pull the gear through the passenger side wheel well. If you move the shaft, it is no big deal, unless you don't want to pay for an alignment. Then you'll need to make sure it doesn't rotate more than one revolution from a stationary point.
Now, you can finally remove the upper pan. There are many 10MM fasteners. Maybe 15 or so. There are two nuts near the front corners as well. They maybe torqued tight, so be cautious not to round these off. If you do, then you have a bad situation on your hands. Recall that the rear bolts (2 10MM and 2 12MM bolts) are more easily accessible from looking up in the holes of the cross member. After you have removed all of these fasteners you'll still have one more, it's a 10MM bolt, short, that holds the radiator outlet pipe to the clamp on the upper pan. Next you'll need to remove the bracket the holds the strainer to the upper oil pan, it's at the back side of the hole that the lower oil pan bolts to. And do no forget that there are also 2 10MM bolts inside the hole where the lower oil pan once was. If you look up, you will see them.
Why isn't it coming off?! You'll need to recheck all the fasteners. Two or three times even. That is imperative, especially the four in the rear. If you're certain you have all the fasteners off, you'll need to pry the pan off. I can't really say how since everyone will choose a different spot. Just take it slow and find a big piece that won't break. After that it should fall down. If some oil comes out, be careful.
What? Why the heck won't this thing clear that dumb pipe and cross member?! Well, you'll need to pull the pan down and locate the two bolts that hold the elongated strainer tube to the rear side of the oil pump. After that, you can detach the tube and you will be able to finally remove the pan.
As far as cleaning goes, use a few cans of brake parts cleaner and a lightly abrasive grinding wheel or even a razor knife to clean the mating surfaces of the upper galley and lower engine crankcase bearing assembly.
Re installation is reverse of removal, however I can say that I'd let the new seal cure for just a few minutes before installing the upper pan. It's difficult to screw in the bolts that hold the elongated tube to the oil pump with out smearing FIPG and ruining the seal. Make sure the strainer is inside the pan and at least connected to the pump before moving the pan up. It's hard to start those two bolts due too poor visibility and attempting not to smear the seal. After you have those bolts in tight, you can begin to bolt the pan back in.
As stated prior, I installed everything in the same exact manner i took it off. I hope this can help people, it is hard to find this information at all. If you have any questions, please ask here or in a message and I'll be happy to answer them.
