Each cylinder must be set with the cams on the heels (not lobes), so the easiest method is to turn to TDC(c) and adjust tappets, then proceed to the next cylinder... Best done cold...

Note: valves set too tight, burn.

1996 to 1998: 16v (source, 1996 Tracker FSM)

cold
intake .005-.007
exhaust.005-.007
hot
intake .007 -.008
exhaust .007 to .008

...... Philip

 

16 valve lash setting, MPI engine

 

Okay thanks for the info Aquanut. I will try setting the lash with the engine cold. Hopefully if I screw up it won't be catastrophic instantly.

I tried that link you mentioned ORF. I think I get the gist of it but I'm just a little leery of taking advice from people who seem barely literate. Seems like Aquanut's advice agrees with what was said though.

Time to nut up or shut up I guess.

 

... I'm just a little leery of taking advice from people who seem barely literate. ...

There are a lot of reasons for someone to think someone else is "barely literate."

Only a few are reasons that you should actually discard the info.

I suspect why "kick-fix" seems "barely literate" has more to do with you not understanding the subject.

That said, his site could be a bit better written and organized ... looks to be a collection of posts... most likely posted by him in this forum. Good info though.

I adjust valves with "Way 2: The 4 stops way" as I KNOW when it is at TDC and ready to fire, the valves are fully closed.

OBTW: the after market manuals for these cars are not worth much. If you plan of keeping your car, check eBay for a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your specific car. Sometimes you can get them for $10 or less, shipped. (Stupid cheap)

 

Just remember that you need to do this in sets - intake and exhaust. Turning the crank pulley clockwise, you get to 0 top dead center with cylinder #1 firing - lash for cylinder #1 will be loose. If you are standing at the front of your engine, starting from the radiator, on the right hand side (as in right hand drive, etc., so this will actually be on your left if you are standing in the front of the car), the cylinders are 1,2,3,4. On the driver's side, they are 5,6,7,8. With 0 TDC and cylinder #1 firing, you adjust group #1,2,5,7. The norm is .006" for all (a middle value). Then rotate the crank 360* to 0TDC again and cylinder #4 will be firing (valves there will be loose). Then do group 3,4,6,8 to the same lash. The hardest part of the whole thing was cleaning the old valve cover gasket off of the valve cover......

 

Hey BEX;

Although more time consuming, for the uninitiated (non mechanical) the method I advised is much easier to understand and less prone to mistakes.... Philip

 

Hmmm....do you think the uninitiated will be googling what cam lobes and heels are??

 

this my help
how to adjust lifters Valve lash geo tracker - YouTube

 

The text on kickfix looks like the work of someone whose native tongue is not English. I applaud them for trying to provide comprehensive information like that, but it's still painful to read and I already understand the subject matter better than I could after reading that how-to. I find the factory service manual to be more authoritative than any enthusiast's website anyway and most of those manuals are easy to find for download.

Anyway, adjusting the valves is not tremendously difficult, but it does require a little technique with the feeler gauges and adjusters. Turn the crankshaft so that the cam lobes are facing directly away from the pads of the rockers to be adjusted. Loosen the lock nuts, tighten the adjuster until it drags on the feeler, and then tighten the lock nut without moving the adjuster. Check again and repeat as necessary.

Be glad Suzuki used an SOHC design with adjustable rocker arms and not the shim-and-bucket DOHC design that most manufacturers have gone to. My truck has the latter and it sucks having to drive over to and buy shims from Toyota (a 2hr+ process for me) for what should be a one-hour valve adjustment job. To top it off, I don't know which shims or how many I'll need until the engine is torn apart. [/rant]

 

shim-and-bucket DOHC design that most manufacturers have gone to

Double D! Later Zukes got em', much to the chagrin of their unsuspecting owners.

If you are bored, this is a good read...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/2g-2006-grand-vitara/15591-valve-inspection.html

 

He's not misinformed, ed and you certainly do not speak on behalf of any readers beyond yourself. I don't know what "real world" you live in, but it does not appear to be the same reality that the auto manufacturers, Max, nor I live in.

This type of system should be left alone as far as adjustment goes...here's why! The lash will get a (little) looser as the cam seats where it's running...but no sooner does that happen the valve's start to recede into the seats a (little)...and will continue to recede for the life of the engine making the lash smaller and the cam will continue to wear on it's jurnals making the lash looser. The point is all this was taken into account by the engineers. Generally speaking leave them alone... you'll be chasing 2 or 3 thousands for the rest of your life.

I can hardly believe what I just read. The base circle of the cam where lash is measured doesn't wear like that: there's no load on it! The valve and seat does wear and take up the lash. Ignore that and you can count on burnt valves, which is what you're telling people they "should" do. If the journals themselves are wearing as fast as the seat is receding, the engine has other problems.

This is confirmation for me that you have no business at all giving people advice.

Double D! Later Zukes got em', much to the chagrin of their unsuspecting owners.

If you are bored, this is a good read...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/2g-2006-grand-vitara/15591-valve-inspection.html

That is disappointing, but at least they held out longer than most. Hydraulic lash adjusters are great because they eliminate the need to do valve adjustments at all. That also means one less thing that dealerships can charge customers for via the maintenance programs. Buckets can be made hydraulic as well, but they keep using shims to make more money off of us. Same with using timing belts instead of chains.

 

Generally speaking leave them alone

Poor advice Ed.

Too loose and wear escalates, performance suffers and noise ensues.

Too tight and you burn valves.

THAT is why the "Engineers" mandate periodic lash checks!

 

Let me first apologize to those of our 63,024 members that have had to endure earlier single member outbursts. Rest assure that the member in question has been dealt with appropriately.

Thank you all who contribute meaningful dialog and to those seeking knowledge and advice. I hope that you enjoy this Forum as much as I do and that this minor bump in the road won't deter the vast majority from supporting your fellow Zuki owners.

Max

 

Let me first apologize to those of our 63,024 members that have had to endure earlier single member outbursts. Rest assure that the member in question has been dealt with appropriately. Max

I sincerely hope that those measures were not draconian... Banned!

If that is the result of having an open forum, what next...
BAN the rainbow flags!
Or anyone that does not hold your (collective) views!

.....Philip

 

Well I adjusted all the valves but nothing has changed as far as the rattling noise is concerned. Must be something else.

 

you have a rod knock drop to oil pan and check did you do what i show in the vid

 

Can you better pinpoint the source of the noise? We might be able to offer some additional advice from there.

A mechanics stethoscope would be your best listening choice.

The fact that the noise became apparent AFTER the head work doesn't lend toward an easy solution though. Assembly error??

 

On my 8 valve Tracker is quiet when start cold. Once it warms up the valve train rattles a bit. I use Mobile 1 5W30. Is it normal to be a bit noisy or is the oil too thin or the valve/s need adjustments?

 

That is a good rule of thumb. Turboshaft Aircraft Engines flight idle speed is around 60% and 50% ground idle. Of course, each engine has diferent speeds but they are around those numbers.

 

This says Samurai but its all the same in theory

 

re; 1.6 litre 16 valve adjustment. The factory service manual does not explain where the feeler gauge is to be inserted to make the adjustment. There is a lot of advice saying to measure it at the cam lobe and rocker arm interface. This may be easier but if the Suzuki/Geo require it to be measured at the valve stem then the geometry of the rocker arm would make the gap way different at the cam/rocker arm vs rocker arm/valve stem. Anyone know for sure?

 

re; 1.6 litre 16 valve adjustment. The factory service manual does not explain where the feeler gauge is to be inserted to make the adjustment. ...

... Anyone know for sure?

What manual do you have?

My 1992/1993 Suzuki Sidekick 4 door supplement (the first manual I grabbed) clearly shows the feeler gauge on page 6A1-10.

It also has this:

NOTE: When checking valve clearance, insert thickness gauge between camshaft and cam-riding face of the rocker arm.

So, YES... someone does know for sure... now you do.

 

Mike, My FSM is for 1996 1.6 16 valve. The page you suggested does not deal with valve lash adjustment in that manual but rather installation of PCV, EGR valves etc. The adjustment is dealt with on page 14 and there is no indication where it is to be measured. So now you know.

 

Mike, My FSM is for 1996 1.6 16 valve. ...

Suzuki Sidekick or Geo Tracker manual?

 

It might be a bit of common sense, though. If you loosed the locknut on a valve, and then turn the adjusting nut, there is really only one place for your feeler gauge to go - in that space that the adjusting nut is, well, adjusting......

 

For about 100 years we have been adjusting valves by inserting a feeler gauge between the stem and rocker arm. If you want to use "common sense" it would be the same as "assuming". I asked a simple question based on prior experience and observing that the geometry of the rocker arm would yield a vastly different measurement between the cam and the rocker arm vs the rocker arm and valve stem. I only wanted to be sure I was doing it correctly. I realize it would be extremely difficult to use a feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm. We are dealing with Japanese technology here and would not be out of the realm of possibility to use a dial indicator.

 

So according to this: 16 valve lash setting, MPI engine

"Assumptions:
You already know how to use a feeler gage."

I guess you dont? Where does anything state a dial gauge?

 

hi the Haynes manual is sketchy at best but there is the valve adjustment sequence that bex talked about and it works just follow the sequence and it has a diagram of the valves to adjust . if you use the other method of setting the valves one cyl at a time the chance of missing one is small. after you have finished cyl no 1 turn the engine clock wise until the intake valve on number 2 has closed, turn the crank slow until the crank timing marks reach 0 degrees that should be top dead no 2 all the valves should be loose and ready for adjustment. pull the plugs it makes it easier to turn do a couple of rotations to see how it works