Tough call. But if you want to address inspection and then obtain cleanliness of the oil pump pickup and oil pan internals of probable timing chain system debris...pulling the engine is the way to go. Addressing the hard to reach fasteners and O2 sensor connections is the difficult part. But you have also read all about this challenging situation already, huh.

 

Ás long as you aren't averse to pulling the motor, I'd say go for it. More work, but way better access once it's out and in the stand.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

 

Thanks folks. Based on what I read it sounded like a “pick your poison” proposal. The benefits of pulling the engine sound like it will be worth it, so unless I find something insurmountable that’s the route I will take. The tale Max shares in his post sounded like pulling the engine will be preferable to the shenanigans with the steering gear (and other obstacles) underneath. I’m awaiting parts, but will try to keep updates flowing here. Have a great week everyone.

 

I just did this job with two vehicles - first with engine left in, and more recently with the engine out. I did not replace all the timing components in either repair; just the ones recommended by Suzuki in the timing chain TSB. (Don't have the link handy.) Like you, I bought running vehicles cheap, with a chain rattle or some other problem.

In my 2nd case I had to pull the engine; I did the repair while doing an engine swap. In terms of the timing chain repair, there is no comparison. As you can guess, doing this repair with engine in the car is pretty tight. On the flip side, pulling the engine isn't very difficult, if you pay attention to tagging all your nuts and bolts and connectors, and esp if this is not your first rodeo. Second, and I wish I'd done this, it's much easier to replace your sensors and other components with the engine OUT. That is, rather than road testing your car after the repair and THEN deciding you have to replace, say, an EGR valve... Grrrrrrr.

This also gives you a chance to replace other components while you're in there, and to thoroughly clean the engine bay and underbelly from 20 years of road grime. I replaced my rear main seal too. These and other similar repairs are impossible with the engine left in, and its a good time for preventative maintenance. My 2 cents.

 

Thanks rallison, this is just the kind of info I was hoping to get. Given I don't really know the maintenance details of our GV I want to be sure I handle anything that could bite us later at once. It made sense to me that I'd be best off pulling the engine but wanted to be sure there weren't any nasty details I was missing in the FSM. Even with 4x4 in play, I still think this is the right route.

Can't wait for the parts to get here!

 

[I removed my comment b/c Max said I gave erroneous advice. Listen to these guys, sometimes you'll get some really good advice.]

 

some say to unbolt the front diff and push it forward to get clearance to pull the engine out. I pulled my front diff out completely, which gave me a lot more room to operate when it came to removing the exhaust manifolds

Why pull the diff? And the exhaust manifold need not be removed either to extract the engine NOR are they anyway near the diff. You are suggesting WAY too much extra effort here sprinkled with some apparent erroneous steps.

2000GV. Read the engine removal posts from ALL of the contributors and of course the Service Manual is my suggestion. Then do what you feel suits your needs and additionally makes sense to you.

 

Everyone's experience with operations like this will vary based on any number of variables. My approach is always to get input from as many resources as possible and use what applies to my circumstances. More than once I've started out with a plan based on one person's input and changed course when I realized someone else's situation more closely matched mine. That's the beauty of a forum like this. ?

 

Wow there is a lot of data to review on this job. Of course I had to pick a major overhaul for my first task with this beauty.

There are a couple of different Suzuki sealant part numbers called out in the service manual, which of course I won't be able to get today. I can safely substitute Permatex Ultra Gray for the sealants I will need - correct? Looks like I may very well need two tubes. I hope I don't glue my fingers together.

 

'Ultra' IS the way to go.

 

Since I don't have all my parts yet, I've been reading and re-reading the service manual (as well as other sources) on the engine removal. In the service manual one of the last steps is "install lifting device". What I'm not seeing in the FSM, or on physical inspection of the engine, are any lift points. I had hoped to find factory installed lift hooks on the engine like I've seen before on SBC engines, but I didn't see any. So, where is the best place to attach the hoist? I hope to get a hoist leveler (cheap enough at Harbor Freight) and I already have a lift.

 

See this thread. Factory lifting eyes exist and a leveler isn't a requirement.

H25a (V-6) Engine removal / replacement...

This will be a chronicle of events on changing out an original engine with a 50K mile replacement. The new engine is from a 2000 GV Limited 2WD, with automatic trans that I acquired several years ago. In as such, I'll have to configure it to fit the needs of my 1999 standard trans, 4WD, GV...

www.suzuki-forums.com

 

Awesome, thank you. I missed that bit. Like I said, there is a LOT of data to comb through.

 

I generated all of those needed links in the FAQ thread, but unfortunately this new format killed all of the old forum link associations. Day five and they are still working on the problem. ?

FAQ's (Frequently Asked Questions) on Parts...

FAQ's (Frequently Asked Questions) on Parts, Tech Publications + "How-to" links... Developed to aid in locating the most sought-after topics based on the number of thread views, and additionally those areas of key subject interest. Last updated 03/08/23. Please check in here prior to...

www.suzuki-forums.com

If you have any more issues, just let us know.

 

Yeah, the broken links have made searching a little tricky. I appreciate the link! I found the picture I needed, now I know. Thank you!

 

Are you leaving the trans in-place? IF not, that is a whole different lift attachment scenario.

 

DEFINITELY. Only pulling the engine. Am I correct the H25 weighs about 300 pounds? I know my hoist can handle it but want to make sure I buy an appropriate chain. It would really stink to get it halfway out and have the chain snap.

 

Somewhere in that 300-400 lb range. I've seen the exact figure but can't recall where.

 

Perfect. I know the exact 4 ft, 1400 lb rated chain I can get for only about $10.
Thanks Max.

 

one bit of advice when you do get the front cover off, take plenty of pictures, check, check and check again the timing marks, one tooth out and turning it by hand is enough to bend a valve. Don't turn anything once you have the chains off either.

 

I planned on the pictures and at least quadruple checking. I didn't realize that even just turning it by hand could lead to bent valves. Good to know. Thank you!

 

FAQ'd. Valve Timing PDF's (two part). It's all in there.

Top two on the list:

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

 

Not sure why, but in your response I just get an explanation of what MediaFire is rather than an image or link.

 

Yep, another of the docs I'll be reading at length before I turn a single wrench on it.

 

Pull the engine. Especially if you have the time, space and means to do so. Like you I recently bought a 99 GV for cheap and it needed and clutch and had an exhaust leak. The cross over pipe that goes under the trans was cracked so the exhaust was so loud I couldn't hear the timing chain/ tensioner noise. Had I have known I would have pulled the engine as well. I have a 2 post hoist in my shop so clutch/exhaust job was easy. Now i'm a bit sore after bending over the grille and fenders of this thing trying to get to the hard to reach stuff on this engine!

 

My wife and I have been working to pull the engine as time allows. As many have commented, WOW space is tight in that engine bay. We've gone slow, labeling everything to make sure we can put it back together properly. We're down to the point where we have three bolts on the bellhousing and the torque converter bolts to remove. I got the lower oil pan removed, but with the front differential and the steering rack in the way, the upper pan doesn't look like it can be taken out.

The torque converter bolts are proving to be a challenge. As I've read elsewhere on this forum, they must have a thread locker on them because I just can't get them to budge. I can't get a breaker bar on them and certainly can't get an impact on them because of the upper oil pan being in the way. I've just about accepted that I'm going to have to drop the steering rack and the front axle so I'll have access to remove the upper oil pan. Then I'd be able to get an impact on the TC bolts (I think). Besides, at that point I could also pull the oil pump pickup and have more clearance for when the engine comes out.

The only other idea I have is maybe i can pull the upper pan bolts, then slide the upper pan forward enough to get some more clearance for an extension with a u-joint so I can get a socket on the TC bolts. Any suggestions?

 

Stop!

Read this first...

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/threads/h25a-v-6-engine-removal-replacement.213802/#post-1262249

IF the search function from the FAQ page which catalogs the OLD threads worked, you would have seen this (and others).