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I managed to track a similar misfire on my 2008 swift down and this isnt a specific ans to your question, likes been said you dont wanna be changing parts willy nilly u can cause other probs too if youre not careful you want to be doing checks/narrowing it down if there arent any codes initially iirc the only 'common' issues are coil packs/leads/plugs and throttle bodies (i swapped mine improved at idle/setting off but u can start with a clean) so theyre the first things to check eradicate any vac leaks and check electrical connections are all tight, clean maf pcv (i cleaned my map to at the sametime) but my issue was mainly due to a partially clogged egr valve which is a quick easy maintenance item job anyway which ll produce a misfire under load. You can also try unplugging it/ various sensors (oh and trying to check injectors andno fuel supply issues) to see if it resolves the issue/runs better unplugged quickly.
I also cleaned my pre cat 02 sensor as a maintenance issue anyway but didnt cure anything.
Beyond that i think youre looking at more indepth analysis hth
 
My car is a 2008 swift sport been having the same issues, misfire, rough idle ect. been to the garage multiple times, changed plugs, coils, clean throttle body’s ect. Still not fixed. Today it when to the main Suzuki dealer and they want to change spark plugs, coils and Abs pump at a cost of £1700. Do you guys think abs pump would cause idle issues and misfire?
 
Any mechanic that wants to start with changing part without proving them N/S is not worth their salt and is after your wallet..
 
I'm no expert but I can't see how something on the braking side would create a misfire correct me if I'm wrong tho, they've spotted another common and expensive fault with your car that's unrelated that ll prolly need sorting (tho it can be reconditioned), however I doubt it'd cause your misfire.
The Colls and plugs cure is the commonest one but you say you've already changed them and is a cheap DIY swap anyway.
Unless they've done a professional scanner based diagnosis you can't really rely on that, and you'll be doing what I and others on here have done and tried and randomly finding the cause of the problem, which I did manage in the end.
What you really need to do is find a proper auto-diagnostician first to try and pinpoint it-tho I don't know that maybe easier said than done too.
Or you'll just be going down the trial and error route too
 
Thanks for reply guys. I’ve owned the car about 5 years and love it. It had a coil pack in 2020. Last June july time it started with the rough idle ect again. Took it to the garage and it had another new coil and 4 new plugs, still didn’t cure it. but just lived with the issue. In November took it to a different garage they said it was the plugs and changed them and clean sensors and throttle body. Last month I took it to a diagnostic place and he said he thought it was the alternator. So I thought I would take it to Suzuki main dealer as I don’t want to keep throwing parts at it. they said they would leave the abs pump but will not do anymore diagnostics until they changed the plugs and coils as it’s codes for misfires. so I’m not really sure what to do. The car drives amazing above 3000rpm. It’s worse when it’s raining the misfire and juddering, and feels likes it’s going’s to stall when the aircon on. It feels like no one can fix my car
 
Youve got my empathy ive read a few similar misfire reports on here without any codes, i cured my own myself eventually mainly by just doing easyish maintenance stuff anyway, but you really need to employ some proper diagnostic procedure, have you got a scanner yourself, i know theyre arent too many suzuki specialists about but theyre a pretty simple car, can you find any mobile purely auto elec/diagnostic in your area or a garage that mainly specialises at that or you may just ending up throwing haphazard parts at it
 
You do not need a Suzuki specialist, all ICE (internal combustion engines work the same, suck, squeeze, bang and blow.. If it miss fires one of those is out of sync.. NOT rocket science.. It just need to be properly diagnosed, not just guessing and throwing parts..

What is your skill level ?
What tool/equipment do you have available ?
Are you interested in getting it fixed, or are you relying on those mechanics..?
 
Hi thanks again for replying. why would the car judder and hunt for revs at low rpm but when you go above 3000 rpm drive completely fine? as per skill level, I can service, change parts and brake pads ect . I do have a obd link mx+ scanner but it wasn’t giving me any codes. I don’t have experience with reading perimeters but could learn. I obviously didn’t want to pay main dealers prices but I thought be best to go, sort of run out of ideas. it was my grandfather cars but he’s not driving no more as he’s got dementia so it does have a lot of sentimental value. I’m in south wales if you know of any specialists. it’s an 08 with 77,000 miles on the clock, run on the super unleaded. Full Suzuki service history up 2020 then local garage since. It had a new subframe, radiator and a/c condenser last year. Always stayed on top maintenance but this fault has been to 4 different garages.
 
Haven't been in S.Wales since 1956,

This would require at the very least a scanner that has graphing capabilities. Some thing that can perform an engine balance test..
 
I don’t think much as changed since then 😅. It had around 40,000 on the clock when we got it. It’s never used a drop of oil. are the 1.6 engines temperamental? I did read that they can be sensitive to plug gaps ?
 
Remember that not all misfires are ignition related, they can be fuel related. 1 sticky injector will, throw a p0300 code as well.
 
Yes, I would be running an amp clamp on the coils and injectors, if I see an anomaly will chase that.
 
Went to School in in Mountain Ash, and lived between MT A. and Abercynon.

Dad was R Navy and we were posted to the Med from S.Wales..
 
I'm thinking a sticky injector on close, or slow opening, look for pintle bump and rise time with a scope
 
I dont think he has access to a scope, seems neither do the Indy's nor dealer..
 
Bugger....not much choice then, find a diagnostician
 
I lived in abercynon until 3 years ago. Caerphilly now. I will be collecting the car from the Suzuki garage later, they phoned me yesterday and the fitter is trying a few things, so I should find out later if they have any more info. the last garage I used was supposed to be a diagnostic guy and he said the only thing he picked up on was there was a lot of load on the alternator and he wanted to replace the alternator with a genuine Suzuki which was about £450 plus labour and that’s when I put it into the Suzuki garage as he said it was a guess.

what is a scope? And how does it work?
 
So today I picked the car up from Suzuki, it had new coils, plugs and leads. so far no miss fire or juddering below 3000rpm. I drove it around 20 miles mixture of city and country lanes. They said they think the coils was the issues even tho they where new but not genuine Suzuki part was causing the issues. I hope this has cured it. I will keep you guys updated.
 
They said they think the coils was the issues even tho they where new but not genuine Suzuki part was causing the issues. I hope this has cured it. I will keep you guys updated.
Just love the way they guess, no solid test to state that was the issue..

But good luck..!
 
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