parts geek separates the Front from the Rear plenum gaskets.

anyway to tell if the part # is for the front or rear max? (for this thread's purpose)

"Genuine" seems to be the only brand that makes the rear intake plenum gasket, I've googled their part number and found it on another site so i can order 2.

 

The three bolt holers are rear. The front are two holers, no? :huh:

If you need both ends...get the whole kit mentioned earlier!

 

That is correct. and i just need the rear ones.

 

Then the three bolt hole ones we've been focusing on then.
Get em' ALL here for $31.79 though, if availability is better.
2006 SUZUKI XL-7 Intake Manifold Gasket

I see that AutoZone carries that full Felpro kit, but the PRICE. $53.99 + tax!
NAPA will probably be through the roof, FWIW.
http://www.autozone.com/external-en...old-gasket?filterByKeyWord=MS970281&fromString=search&isSearchByPartNumber=true

 

buying the whole set is definitely the better deal. good looking out max.

there is no tax here in oregon, but Eff that lol i just bought the one from RockAuto.

 

Thanks everyone. I will see what is more economical, the kit or the individual gaskets. I'm sure others will be helped from all of the input.

 

I attempted this job this weekend. Started Sunday afternoon and now it's Monday night and and I'm about 40% putting it back together.

Word of advice to anyone attempting this, be patient and don't plan anything besides working on your car.


I ended up having to remove the throttle body first before the intake collector in order to do that I had to also remove the fuel rail. But once all that was out of the way it pretty much was a breeze.

 

I did this last year... IT WAS A MAJOR BITCH TO DO!!!

ALSO, I ran into different bolt sizes with the intake butterfly valve assembly. Check my thread here, I got no answers, but my XL-7 has been running better ever since I cleaned out my EGR valve with a KNIFE!

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-200...om/1g-2001-2006-xl-7/123242-intake-throttle-body-bolts-why-they.html#post748178

jstyles, you are absolutely correct. It will take a long time. You do have to disconnect some fuel lines. I recall one near the fuel pressure regulator. Putting it back together was a bigger pain than taking it apart.

I had a laptop in the garage and put this video on repeat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr1bfmHHxbc
These folks make everything look so easy.

Working on a Suzuki engine will make you understand why Honda's and Toyota's have such good resale value. I had a 99 Camry and the Oil filter was in the easiest spot to locate. Suzuki? Nah lets put the oil filter on the bottom end of the engine, with some cross members, brake lines, and AC lines blocking the way to make it more difficult to access. EGR valve? Lets make it so you have to take off half the engine just to access it.

On a more positive note, the Suzuki has been very fun in the snow, fun to do donuts in a few inches of fresh powder snow, you can also go around and pass all the slow front wheel drive hondas during snow storms and can beat anyone off the line at the stop light in 4 wheel drive engaged. I practice in open icy parking lots to intentionally lose control of the zuki and learn how to recover and regain control, its very fun to do, more fun since the 4 wheel drive system lets you lose control unlike something more advanced in a Subaru drive train. Lots of people are scared to drive in the snow, I like to let loose and have a little fun.

 

One thing i forgot to mention. On my 2006 XL7, ALL the gaskets i took off including the 3 gaskets associated with the EGR Valve were metal EXCEPT the throttle body gasket.

I re-used them all and replaced the throttle body gasket.

 

Figure I would add my experience w/ my parents 2002 XL7

Replaced the battery that was in it from their purchase a few months back and upon installation the engine would not maintain idle. Took the Idle Air control valve off clean and inspected it put it back on and still would not maintain idle. So we adjusted the throttle cable slightly so it would maintain idle.

Father said he noticed his gas mileage went from 19mpg to 17mpg and one day last week it began running real rough and would not maintain idle. Mother limped it home and hooked the code reader up and got three codes, one was for the heated o2 sensor, one was a gross leak on the vent valve at the gas tank and one code was a EGR code P0401 IIRC.

Finally located where the EGR was and wasn't to thrilled. I removed the front intake manifold so I could remove the plastic manifold that sits ontop of the fuel rails and attaches to the throttle body. Had a rodent that pulled nesting material up underneath the plastic intake.
We then removed all the cables, connectors and lines (vacuum and coolant) from the manifold and throttle body. Then removed the bolts that run from the lower part of the rear manifold down to the passenger exhaust. I removed them from the exhaust manifold at first thinking I would be able to pull the manifold up out w/ it still attached as it wasn't the easiest to access the two bolts that held the upper part on the intake. Unfortunately that did not work and I had to proceed to remove the top bolts and unbolt it completely from the exhaust manifold and intake. There are a few hoses that are a pain to get on and remove along with fasteners for the EGR tube and the main wiring harness that runs behind the engine that are a pain to access also.

After getting it removed and pulling the EGR it was indeed fairly filthy and the one port on the intake was completely plugged. So we sent both intakes up to local machine shop to be cooked and glass beat and did ohms readings on the EGR which came back within spec.
Got the intakes back and went to install the rear intake on w/o the throttle body to make it easier to maneuver. The two studs on the intake that the throttle body bolts and fuel lines prevent this from being possible. So unbolted the manifold and EGR tube got the throttle body on and everything back together and it is running good.

Plan on attacking the gross leak from that purge or vent solenoid back at the gas tank next

With the right sockets/wrenches you are able to pull the rear intake w/o fooling with the fuel rail/injectors.

Used 1/4" drive on some of the fasteners.

Here is a photo of the intakes after cleaned. Didnt get a before tho

 

Reading through this thread, I noticed this and couldn't just leave without spilling the beans.
It's like one of those old jokes that plumbers or mechanics have and keep to themselves preventing
the job to be done easily by the average Joe in the general population.
In telling about this I am sure I will be forever banned from some
tight knit group somewhere. . . . . . . .

SOOOOOO!!!
Don't care.
Ready ?
Here ya go -

went to install the rear intake on w/o the throttle body to make it easier to maneuver. The two studs on the intake that the throttle body bolts and fuel lines prevent this from being possible. So unbolted the manifold and EGR tube got the throttle body on and everything back together

Did you catch it?
I didn't either until after I did the same thing as above, then the eureka moment arrived and I said, "what if".

What if a guy was to remove the two studs, so, I did.

Other wise it is physically impossible to get the throttle body back into position with the collector in place, it just won't slide past all of the bumps in the pathway.

I thought to myself this is one of those insider thangs them factory guys all know about but are sworn to secrecy they will never divulge.

Once the studs are removed, however,
the two top bolts can be started, then put the nuts on the studs,
a dab of blue Lock Tite if you wish on the stud threads and turn them back in.
You could double nut them to get them back to their original positions,
then remove the outer nut and cinch em down.

If you've done this procedure you understand what I am saying.
If your going to be doing this, remember this step when you go to put it all back together,
it will make sense when your at this point.

EDIT
If you have watched the video of the mechanics removing the intake manifold you will notice he stops when he realizes the throttle body could not be removed.
I spotted that when watching the video but didn't know what the reason was at the time.
It was because the studs on the bottom of the throttle body prevented it from sliding past the intake runners and fuel rail.
I have removed the two studs, throttle body and the collector without needing to take half of the top end off.
/EDIT

Don

.

 

Hey Donewrken how did you removed the studs from the throttle body? I have removed the throttle body before but I have to remove the fuel rail.

 

12 mm on an extension theres a youtube video gives you step by step incase you forget where anything gose

 

Sorry but I can't seem to figure it out. I'm trying to remove the throttle body studs "the two studs that are on top". So I won't have to remove the whole fuel rail. Can you post any photos please?

 

http://youtu.be/8qYKMtb3Jpo

 

Hello all,
This is my first post, and I am attempting this EGR replacement on a 2001 V6. I joined so that I could get the pics on page one of this thread...they do not appear for me. Can someone repost those? Can I get their url, to see what I am getting into?
I did see the video of the guy taking the intake manifold off, and the throttle body. Does this absolutely have to be done? Is there no way to access the EGR valve from any other point, even underneath?
This GV is throwing codes that all point to the EGR valve, and it is the only issue with this ride. I would hate to have to get rid of it just because it won't pass emissions.
Any help or guides would be greatly appreciated!

 

remove inlet manifold, remove throttle body...

or, remove engine, then remove intake and throttle body.

Only way you will get to it. its not a big job if you are mechanically minded, just annoying to do. Make sure you get ALL the passages clean.

 

Having the same problem with my 04 xl7. Code p0401. Anyone had any luck cleaning the ports using seafoam upper intake clean?? Removing front and rear intake looks like a pain to do..

Sent from my SM-A600P using Tapatalk

 

Seafoam is discussed earlier in the thread.

This thread died long ago, but some good information still remains. Unfortunately the key posters of yesteryear haven't even logged in for ages, and attempts to try and bring them back to the table via PM has failed as well (to re-post the lost pics discussed early on).

A fresh outlook (thread) with new info and active Members is what this subject needs now if interest still exists.

If deemed appropriate, I can reference / link this thread in follow-on discussions if need be.