2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara E.G.R. Valve

Thank You Sapien.

To anyone reading this post, this is not a task for the faint at heart. You are going to need something to stand on, a camera, and a ratchet with a pivoting head. Your hand is going to be bent funny for a couple of hours, seeing as how it is right next to the firewall. It can be done, though.....and I think it was well worth it. Here are some pictures of my 2006. As you can see, there might be a little more electronics on this model of th 2.7L V6.

 

thank you for the pics
can you give some help to remove the throttle cables?
I also can`t get the bottom interior bolt off the passanger side. It seems to be such a tight place. Anyt thoughts? Thanks

 

that was the hardest one to get to, and the hardest to put back. i used a 1/4" drive ratchet that is only about 6 inches long, and it pivots.......between that and playing with a couple of different sized (length-wise) sockets, and or extensions. Its a nut I think...i'm not completely sure. A thin hand is also a plus. If you got the wire harness loose, you can do this!

 

My Suzuki is a 2006, so there there were not any cables involved in this precedure....only hoses, various electric plugs, and the wire harness brackets. If you are sure cables have to be removed, look to see if the assembly the cables are connected to is actually a part of the intake system or not. Your throttle should be electric. If cable has to be removed, hold both pieces...cable, and what it is attatched to.......push/pull cable while trying to hold other part still, trying to get slack in the cable.... it should turn or spin, allowing you to pop it out of place...if not, maybe the whole assembly can be removed without taking cables loose. As far as the screws go, some of them are nuts, and all of them are a pain to remove, and replace....a pivoting head 1/4" inch socket ratchet with a pivoting head, different length socket heads, and extensions. Stand on something, so you have a better angle on getting under the hood, and play until you get it. If you successfully got wire harnees loose, you can do this. I'm a backyard shadetree and i did it in 5 hours...maybe 7.

 

Egr

I was getting that code for low flow for the EGR. My mechanic had to pull it out......It broke their asses to do it....All they did was clean out the passages put it in and reset the computer. All been well after that,,It was a little scary seeing my engine almost half apart

 

has everyone re-used their intake gaskets? i bought the egr gasket but i am wondering if i am going to be in a world of trouble if i take the upper intake off without a new gasket any less than a week away. im dealing with the 02 xl7 limited edition 2.7L.

 

all the gaskets on mine were metal. did not need to replace any. but did the egr gasket just because i had it. car seems to run a lot more smooth and starts and idles a lot lower like it should. also the check engine light is off for now. did not take me anywhere near the 5 hours some have described but i already knew what i was doing so i am simply saying that for anyone with some automotive experience it may not take you all that long to do this job.

 

2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.7L EGR

I found this thread very helpful, so I thought I would share my experience. I apologize for not providing any pictures.

Fiance's Grand Vitara with the 2.7L V6 was idling rough, difficulty restarting after it warmed up, and finally through a code after the CEL came on.

P0401 - Low flow to EGR Valve

Before ripping into EGR valve itself, I tried the basics. I treated the gasoline with a can of Seafoam. I used Seafoam spray into the throttle body as instructed on the can. I also replaced the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium plugs. The I took it for a spirited test drive as the Seafoam instructed.

The results.... it didn't run any better and may have even run a little worse.

Great... so I start reading up on removing the EGR valve from the Suzuki Factory Service manual. The manual says to remove the intake manifold completely. I was not about to rip all this apart if there was no need too.

I looked the engine over and decided to try just removing the EGR valve as it was. I have fairly small hands, and using some small socket wrenches and a mirror I bet I could do it.

Tools Required:
1/4 and 3/8 drive metric socket sets (6 point sockets preferred deep and shallow)
Various length socket extensions to make life easier
A new battery terminal brush
A mechanics mirror
Bright light
(1) full can of carburetor cleaner
(1) can of penetrating lube
Patience

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove (2) 8mm bolts securing the engine cover.
2. Use 10mm socket to remove battery terminals and then battery strap. Remove battery and set aside. Now you have some area to work.
3. Remove (1) 10mm bolt supporting the center of the EGR tube
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the passenger side manifold.
5. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the bottom side of the intake manifold. Use a small tool mirror to get a look under the manifold if need be.
6. Remove the EGR tube from the vehicle. BE AWARE THAT THERE ARE SMALL METAL GASKETS ON EITHER END OF THE TUBE. These can be re-used.
7. Remove (2) 12mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the engine. BE AWARE THAT THERE IS A SMALL METAL GASKET BETWEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE EGR VALVE.
8. Now that the valve is free press the left center of the electrical connector on the EGR valve. Work the valve free from the connector. Mine came right off.
9. Remove the valve.
10. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 3-2, 4-5, 6-5. Resistance should be between 20 to 24 ohms. If not, replace the valve. Pin layout on EGR:
1 4
2 5
3 6

11. If the electronics check out, use a carburetor cleaner to blast out the valve. I prefer Gumout. I sprayed it out really well, then fill the valve with Gumout and, worked the valve plunger back and forth with a screw driver and then let it soak for 15 minutes.
12. After soaking, I used a brand new battery terminal brush to remove as much buildup in the valve as I could. This made the stem off the plunger appear shiny and new again.
13. I sprayed the valve out really well with Gumout again. Then I filled it with PB Blaster and let that soak for about 15 minutes after moving the plunger with the screwdriver again. Any penetrating lubricant will work here. After soaking the valve, rinse out with Gumout to remove any excess lube. I hit it with compressed air to make sure it was dry.
14. Now you are ready for installation. Follow the steps for disassembly in reverse with 1 exception. Mount the EGR Valve and THEN hook the electrcal connector back up.
15. One tip for getting the EGR back on is to feed the passenger's side mounting bolt through the valve and lay the gasket on top. Use the mirror to guide your self in and get the bolt started. Then check the gasket alignment and install the other bolt.
*** After breaking all bolts loose with socket wrenches, I was able to remove them all with finger tips.

This took me less than 4 hours to do with several interruptions. I had the old valve out in about 45 minutes.

I hope this will help someone in the future. It save me $200 for a new EGR and who knows how much in shop labor to either replace this valve or clean the existing one. I am very much a do-it yourself kind of guy. With 1 SUV, 2 trucks, and a quad it is the only way I can afford to keep all of these things.

Edit: I forgot to add the results. The GV starts right up now and idles smooth. I believe there is more pickup in the engine after a good cleaning and tune up. I imagine that there will be a slight bump in fuel economy. She was averaging 20.7 mpg when I pulled the battery.

I can also tell you that for the first 5 miles of drive or so, when I would shift the GV from drive to park, it would stall the engine. This went away after a little while. I believe the transmission was still calibrating until it reached operating temperature.

 

I found this thread very helpful, so I thought I would share my experience. I apologize for not providing any pictures.

Fiance's Grand Vitara with the 2.7L V6 was idling rough, difficulty restarting after it warmed up, and finally through a code after the CEL came on.

P0401 - Low flow to EGR Valve

Before ripping into EGR valve itself, I tried the basics. I treated the gasoline with a can of Seafoam. I used Seafoam spray into the throttle body as instructed on the can. I also replaced the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium plugs. The I took it for a spirited test drive as the Seafoam instructed.

The results.... it didn't run any better and may have even run a little worse.

Great... so I start reading up on removing the EGR valve from the Suzuki Factory Service manual. The manual says to remove the intake manifold completely. I was not about to rip all this apart if there was no need too.

I looked the engine over and decided to try just removing the EGR valve as it was. I have fairly small hands, and using some small socket wrenches and a mirror I bet I could do it.

Tools Required:
1/4 and 3/8 drive metric socket sets (6 point sockets preferred deep and shallow)
Various length socket extensions to make life easier
A new battery terminal brush
A mechanics mirror
Bright light
(1) full can of carburetor cleaner
(1) can of penetrating lube
Patience

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove (2) 8mm bolts securing the engine cover.
2. Use 10mm socket to remove battery terminals and then battery strap. Remove battery and set aside. Now you have some area to work.
3. Remove (1) 10mm bolt supporting the center of the EGR tube
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the passenger side manifold.
5. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the bottom side of the intake manifold. Use a small tool mirror to get a look under the manifold if need be.
6. Remove the EGR tube from the vehicle. BE AWARE THAT THERE ARE SMALL METAL GASKETS ON EITHER END OF THE TUBE. These can be re-used.
7. Remove (2) 12mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the engine. BE AWARE THAT THERE IS A SMALL METAL GASKET BETWEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE EGR VALVE.
8. Now that the valve is free press the left center of the electrical connector on the EGR valve. Work the valve free from the connector. Mine came right off.
9. Remove the valve.
10. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 3-2, 4-5, 6-5. Resistance should be between 20 to 24 ohms. If not, replace the valve. Pin layout on EGR:
1 4
2 5
3 6

11. If the electronics check out, use a carburetor cleaner to blast out the valve. I prefer Gumout. I sprayed it out really well, then fill the valve with Gumout and, worked the valve plunger back and forth with a screw driver and then let it soak for 15 minutes.
12. After soaking, I used a brand new battery terminal brush to remove as much buildup in the valve as I could. This made the stem off the plunger appear shiny and new again.
13. I sprayed the valve out really well with Gumout again. Then I filled it with PB Blaster and let that soak for about 15 minutes after moving the plunger with the screwdriver again. Any penetrating lubricant will work here. After soaking the valve, rinse out with Gumout to remove any excess lube. I hit it with compressed air to make sure it was dry.
14. Now you are ready for installation. Follow the steps for disassembly in reverse with 1 exception. Mount the EGR Valve and THEN hook the electrcal connector back up.
15. One tip for getting the EGR back on is to feed the passenger's side mounting bolt through the valve and lay the gasket on top. Use the mirror to guide your self in and get the bolt started. Then check the gasket alignment and install the other bolt.
*** After breaking all bolts loose with socket wrenches, I was able to remove them all with finger tips.

This took me less than 4 hours to do with several interruptions. I had the old valve out in about 45 minutes.

I hope this will help someone in the future. It save me $200 for a new EGR and who knows how much in shop labor to either replace this valve or clean the existing one. I am very much a do-it yourself kind of guy. With 1 SUV, 2 trucks, and a quad it is the only way I can afford to keep all of these things.

Edit: I forgot to add the results. The GV starts right up now and idles smooth. I believe there is more pickup in the engine after a good cleaning and tune up. I imagine that there will be a slight bump in fuel economy. She was averaging 20.7 mpg when I pulled the battery.

I can also tell you that for the first 5 miles of drive or so, when I would shift the GV from drive to park, it would stall the engine. This went away after a little while. I believe the transmission was still calibrating until it reached operating temperature.

All the pictures are gone now, unfortunately, and my 06 GV 2.7L is showing all the signs of the EGR valve malfunction. I realize this is an old thread, but does anyone have the pictures to post from this job, or verify what wizkid claims here? They haven't posted in a while, so I'm not sure if they're still active on here. I just think it's odd that one person says this can be done much simpler, but everybody ignores it and pulls the whole manifold off.

Also, it's my understanding that EGR procedure on the 2.7L is essentially the same as the youtube video posted for the 2002 mode,

. They don't show a lot of detail in the video, but I think I get the basics. I would really just like to avoid that whole mess if possible...

 

No problem. I use the internet for all of my vehicles. If I feel like I can add something to make someone else's life easier, I will. Not only that, but I have to imagine having the dealer or another repair shop do this would be well over $500. I heard the replacement EGR from the Suzuki dealer is $700 for the part. That is absolutely outrageous. I was able to do this for less than $20. You could buy all the tools needed and probably will be under $150.

 

$404 bucks, but that's not chump change...
2006 Suzuki XL-7 Parts - Suzuki Car Parts Catalog Online Store

$227 aftermarket...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1433179,parttype,4968

 

Not at all. I picked mine up at Advance Auto. Using their 30% off coupon and an additional 7% from Ebates, the net cost was about $190. But I was lucky enough to return it!

 

Bumping so i can easily find and use thread this weekend.

 

Make sure you post some pictures and tips if you find anything different or unusual.

 

It will always be in the FAQ section...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-199...-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/134001-frequently-asked-questions-faq-parts-tech.html

 

I would've been furious. That is so much money! Hopefully you won't have to deal with it again. Anymore, it takes a lot for me to take a vehicle to the garage. I am willing to try anything before paying someone to do it for me.

 

I am getting this code also. I am researching the gaskets needed for the job. I have found the egr gaskets, but can't find the 2 gaskets on the manifold at each end. They are round with 3 holes. Any ideas?

 

I was able to reuse all the gaskets. But if you need new ones, RockAuto has them.

It is under the EGR gasket category in Emissions. It is the gasket for "pipe" For a 2007 2.7L Grand Vitara, it is Fel-Pro part #71026. Cost in $1.90 each.

More Information for FEL-PRO 71026

Hope this helps.

I just checked and it seems the EGR systems are the same on the following:
2002-2006 XL-7 with 2.7L V6
1999-2008 Grand Vitara with 2.5L or 2.7L V6

As a result, these gaskets work on the above models.

EGR Valve Gasket (1 required) Fel-Pro part # 71218
More Information for FEL-PRO 71218

EGR Pipe Gasket (2 required) Fel-Pro part # 71026
More Information for FEL-PRO 71026

 

I still need the 2 on the intake.

 

2004 Suzuki XL-7 Parts - Suzuki Car Parts Catalog Online Store.

EMISSION SYSTEM / EMISSION COMPONENTS / EGR valve gasket # 2
1852977E01 - EGR valve gasket. $3.19

#4 gasket listed as well.

 

Sorry, I misunderstood your previous post. It looks like you can buy a set that has everything. I can't find them individually.

FEL-PRO Part # MS970281

More Information for FEL-PRO MS970281

 

Oh!

I see manifold gaskets listed, but can't confirm as correct without a diagram. I can look them up on Tuesday at work if no one else chimes in.

 

I need the 2 for the intake on each end.

There is a bit of mis-information about this. Everyone calls this an "Air Intake" however the Suzuki repair manual refers to this as the "Intake Collector"

By doing research on the "collector gasket" i came across 1 place that sold the gaskets by themselves (not in a set) or as a pair (cuz you need 2 obviously lol)

Home Page | O'Reilly Auto Parts

add your zuk and search "Collector Gasket"

 

I was looking at your O'Rielly parts link. I don't think those are the ones you need, as they are exhaust collector gaskets. Not that they won't fit / work mind you.

Normally I can get this on-line site to display diagrams and then ID parts, but not today. :huh:
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/suzuki/part?catalog=US&model_code=JB627W33&group=9

My hardback parts manual is at work, so tomorrow for sure with an OE part number.

You could also pound out some of your own gaskets from generic sheet stock. There are no significant heat or pressure considerations at that joint. Gasket paper and a skim coat of RTV sealant?

 

yeah i think your right Max, i was going based off the shape of joints.

After looking at this video (although this is a Grand Vitara) the engine looks very similar to the one in the XL7. you can kind of catch a glimpse of the gasket as they pull the intake manifold off:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr1bfmHHxbc

it looks more like these:

and just for reference anyone needing an exploded diagram of the intake system see this diagram:

 

Suzuki Genuine Factory Part
Part Number: 1312267D00
Online Price $5.30

PLENUM GASKET Grand Vitara , XL-7
Fits 2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara Base

Verify for your year / engine if you call to order them from the Dealer.
http://suzukicarparts.com/parts/2004/Suzuki/XL-7/EX/index.cfm?siteid=214820

 

Thanks Max.

I assume it's the same Part # for every year? ( i have a 2006)

i didnt see it on suzukiparts.com after i verified my year. found it on partsgeek, but they only have 1 in stock

 

That is a good assumption, but double check with a counter person prior to committing.

Let us know too!

http://suzukicarparts.com/parts/2006/Suzuki/XL-7/Base/index.cfm?siteid=214820