I guess my intake manifold needed all of the bolts

My next step is to remove my intake manifold again get some RTV material and use it as gasket ceiling material in between my heads and my intake manifold I will see if this will take care of the problem does anyone know if there is a torquing sequence that is recommended one seating down and intake manifold? It seems like there would be some sequence that would make sure you get it seated down properly

 

All I see on a quick manual look is:

2) Install intake manifold.
Tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque.
Tightening Torque
(a): 23.0 N.m (2.3 kg-m, 16.5 lb-ft)

I'd apply the standard "crisscross" tightening method, torquing initially to half value then again to final spec.

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/tsequence.htm

 

What about inside and outside bolts which ones should I do first?

 

Refer to the posted link and tightened equally in a fashion that spreads out the clamping effort.

This component isn't THAT critical to assemble or Suzuki would have provided a specific warning or assembly procedure to follow.

 

When I did mine (3 times) I always worked from the center of the manifold, out to the ends. Like Max said, go half way on the torque spec on the first pass, then snug to spec on the second pass. If you have a broken center stud, I would bet a dollar to a doughnut, extra sealant will NOT hold. An aluminum manifold will actually "bubble" if not tightened where engineers have determined a nut or bolt should be. Wish I could offer more help, but I think believing RTV will hold, is a false belief.

 

Thanks for advice I have already pulled the intake manifold and got out the old snapped bolt. I am going to use Delco engine sealant and replace the bolt. I'll let you know what happens.

 

OK it looks like the AC Delco sealant did the trick along with replacing one of the bolts I snapped off and tapping the hole now my car only has two other issues left.
it seems to be idling a little rough and when I get out and drive it my engine light comes on and it's coming up with 300 302 303 305 codes.
Also I noticed that when I'm driving really slow I'm pulling into a parking space or making a sharp turn my rear tires are sticking and chirping like my rear tires are getting stuck could that be my rear brakes from having my car sitting for eight months without driving it? Or does it have something to do with the four-wheel-drive?

 

The 300 is for random/multiple cylinder misfires. Could you have possibly gotten one or more of the plug ins on the coil on plug (COP) on the wrong cylinders? I did, and it ran like crap. Once I ironed that out (getting the proper connections on the correct plugs) all codes immediately cleared. It could also be that the COP's are not "set" all the way down onto the plugs, or the COP's themselves are bad/shorting out. There is a you tube video on how to check the COP's for bleeding current, but I'm not good with electrical things. A multi-meter looks like a rubics cube to me .

Another trick is to remove the top connections to the COP's one at a time. The idle will get noticeably worse on cylinders that have the CORRECT connection. Make note of that, idle will get WORSE, if the connection to the COP is correct, when you disconnect it. Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2, but I don't know the cylinder numbers for driver and passenger sides.

The binding problem could be emergency brake related or something to do with your 4 wheel drive. That's an area I know nothing about.

 

I figured out what the problem was with the misfiring cylinder cylinders the 300 codes I had two bare wires going to the actuator that fired the spark plug on the front passenger side of the engine they must've been shorting out against each other. I just put some electrical tape on them and spread them apart away from each other now engine runs perfect no more codes.

 

Glad you got it figured out Scott!! Here is an idea, there is a product at Advance and O'Riellys called liquid tape. It is a liquid form of electrical tape. It dries into a watertight protective cover, and does not break down as easily to heat. Used it on another vehicle, and would recommend to anyone who has wire chaffing issues underhood.

Did you figure out the binding in the drivetrain?

 

Yes I guess that is normal when you do tight turns in 4wd. I can't get out of 4WD unless I drive backwards about 30 yards.

 

Thanks for the liquid tape idea !!

 

Here is a good article about my 4wd problem



So, with part time 4WD engaged your front wheels are forced by good traction on the ground to rotate faster than the rear - but since the front drive shaft delivers only the same rpm as to the rear there is a fight between front wheels and rotational force coming from the front drive shaft. The front drive shaft in effect tries to slow down the front wheels. This results in very wide turns (understeer) and dangerous handling on pavement.

The name "part time" derives from its use. It can only be used part of the time - most of the time (for most uses) it has to remain in 2WD. Only "full time" - notice the name - can be used full time for all uses.

The fight between front wheels and transfer case also makes 4WD performance suffer - in a turn the front wheels are not pulling like they should. They are in effect hindered by the front drive shaft.

 

We've got that all covered in the FAQ section in a link to...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-199...g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/24778-4-wheel-drive-problems-include-early.html