A compression test uses the starter to turn the engine over and measure how much cylinder pressure can be achieved in several cranking revolutions. Low numbers indicate leaking past either piston rings or valves.

Did they give the figures for the other cylinders? 160 psi isn't a necessarily low figure. It's a matter of the pressure relationship between ALL cylinders. Meaning, if one tests 160 and the REST are 180-200 or something, that one out of spec (low) cylinder has issues or possibly a testing procedure malady. But if ALL of the cylinders are pretty close in pressure across the board, I wouldn't put all my faith in that one test only. A LEAK DOWN test, once again performed to each cylinder, is the most precise, as opposed to a COMPRESSION test.

Yeah, you need a 2nd opinion.

Are you getting any codes now? If running that badly, the ECU should throw a mis-fire code in that cylinder at LEAST!

 

Only results from one cylinder given

A compression test uses the starter to turn the engine over and measure how much cylinder pressure can be achieved in several cranking revolutions. Low numbers indicate leaking past either piston rings or valves.

Did they give the figures for the other cylinders? 160 psi isn't a necessarily low figure. It's a matter of the pressure relationship between ALL cylinders. Meaning, if one tests 160 and the REST are 180-200 or something, that one out of spec (low) cylinder has issues or possibly a testing procedure malady. But if the ALL of the cylinders are pretty close in pressure across the board, I wouldn't put all my faith in that one test only. A LEAK DOWN test, once again performed to each cylinder, is the most precise, as opposed to a COMPRESSION test.

Yeah, you need a 2nd opinion.

Are you getting any codes now? If running that badly, the ECU should throw a mis-fire code in that cylinder at LEAST!

They only wrote the results from cylender 4 on my paperwork. I don't know what the rest read. I did not get any codes when I ran my scanner but the engine light is still on and flashes under excelleration (like from a standing stop to driving speed). I supect they cleared the ECU before I picked it up. I will run a test later today.

Here's something I'm worried about. The service manager said this might be covered under the drive train warrenttee but I cannot produce the 10 oil change reciepts. If they break down the engine and try to say I did not do the proper owner matenance I'm screwed on the cost of the internal inspection. Any thoughts on how this might go?

 

I'd still ask for (and like to see) those compression numbers.

**************************************************

On the oil changes...plead your case to some HOPEFULLY sympathetic / understanding ears that YOU performed the maintenace, is all I can suggest. Then cross your fingers.

MAYBE they will agree (up front) to pick up the cost if once into the "open and inspect" phase, they find no signs of a lack of oil change mainenance leading to the problem. (no dirt / debis, sludge, etc, suggesting poor maintenance)

On the other hand...IF the loss of compression is due to VALVES leaking by...oil change frequency is mostly a moot point. Top end problems (as in valve probs) are typically caused from valve lash, engine overheating, over-reving, fuel and ignition timing problems.

 

I should be OK on the oil change part. I changed mine more frequently than the recommended 6000 miles, my rule has always been 3000. I use Pensoil mostly and STP filters. Let's hope that took good care of the engine.

 

Great photo I was looking for hours trying to find out which oxy sensor was bank1sensor1 How did you take the photo? Any ideas on changing the driver side 1 sensor?My hand bary fits back there.The other side would be easyer.It does not have that black box with cable coming out of it,hanging off the end of the head.would you know what that is I was thinking of remoing it to get at sensor.Your photo shows it with a white spot in the middle.The connecter is really in a tight space also.

 

black box with cable coming out of it,hanging off the end of the head.would you know what that is I was thinking of remoing it to get at sensor.Your photo shows it with a white spot in the middle.

It's the CMP (timing) Sensor. If you mess w/it, there goes your timing. You'd have to reset it. I'm not sure how it pulls off and re-attaches either.

How did you take the photo?

Spare engine in the shop.

Any ideas on changing the driver side 1 sensor?

I did everything on mine from UNDER the vehicle using that style ratchet and socket I pictured.

The connecter is really in a tight space also.

Tell me about it. One of the guys here reached in from the TOP of the engine to get to his FWIW. It may have been on the other side though.

 

This comment is to Max. Let me see if I understand looking at the back of the engine,which you have pictured, the left bank sensor 1 is on top and sensor 2 is bottom left. Right bank or side of engine in picture would be same sensor 1 on top sensor 2 bottom. Is that correct? I am in the process of changing one of the sensors and do agree about the connector issue, it is a pain. Your pictures are excellent.... Thanks

 

Yep! I think you've got it, but to make sure...

The one boxed is Bank 2, Sensor 1. Next to it on the left is Bank 1, Sensor 1. Now, directly below and after the cat converter (but not pictured) are a 2nd set, bank 1 & 2 sensors #2.

Let us know how it goes. Glad I could help.

Max

I first visited this forum three or four years ago but cannot remember my username, so I had to join again. I always liked reading the stuff here. Thanks a million for the picture showing the O2 sensors. My Check Engine light has been on about a year. I live in Houston, and my car failed the emmissions inspection today. The printout says Fault Codes: P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1

I suppose that means the one in the picture, opposite the boxed sensor? Do you have a part number or can you suggest where I can order a generic (cheap!) sensor? I found this vendor from your post: http://oxygensensors.com/catalog.php...8217#Location0

I hope the Walker 250-24400 for $49.90 will work. Where did your get the sensor socket? Thanks!

It is for an '03 XL-7.

thanks!
Scorch

 

You've got it right Scorch!

I'd suggest RockAuto...

2003 SUZUKI XL-7 Oxygen Sensor

Welcome back too!

Oh! If you want to go OE parts. You've got a great price discounting DEALER in Texas as well!
OEM Suzuki Parts

Oxygen sensor, xl-7, front 01-06 $151.20
Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor

IF you go generic, you'll have to splice into your wiring UNLESS you find a generic w/the plug on it already. I have seen them before. Going with OE's sensors and you'll have a PLUG on the end to connect for sure that's a pain in the ass (that's another story that you already have read about). Splicing generics is no walk in the park either, ESPECIALLY the first one like is shot on your Zuki.

Wow, that was fast! I was just cleaning up the post, I found a similar post by you in the XL-7 forum. Thanks, and where did you get the socket wrench, sir?

Other than this sensor, my XL-7 has been completely trouble free, and I have 123,000 miles on it.

Scorch

 

That socket wrench actually came from Wally World, and the socket from Snap-on. Talk about one extreme to the other, vendor wise!

That flex head ratchet is manufactured from several tool companies. That one was a Popular Mechanics brand.

 

Ok, so the 22mm socket from Snap-on, great, and the BOSCH Part # 15730 {Oxygen Sensor - Universal Type - Upstream Sensor}
4 Wire; Heated; Check / Replace Interval: 100,000 Miles sensor from RockAuto.

You have been a great help, mate.

Scorch

 

2001 XL7 O2 Sensors

This is my first interaction to this thread so I hope this goes to Max. If it doesn't pls someone send it to him. Max has done a great job of displaying the little Suzuki V6. His picture of the rear of the engine might just allow me to fix my O2 sensor problem. The pictures are worth a lot to me and I suspect a lot of other Fix-It-Yourself guys who do this to save money and secondly just to know more about the car for future problems. GOOD WORK MAX,,,

 

Yep, many thanks to Max for going the extra mile. That's what really makes the Internet shine, you can find good info on just about anything these days.

My sensor should be here tomorrow. I will remove the old one and cut the plug off of it and connect it to the new plug.

 

Mission accomplished. :57:

It wasn't easy but I was able to get at the wiring plug and O2 sensor today. I put together a guide, hope this helps other Suzuki owners. Special thanks to Max!


O2 Sensor replacement guide



.

 

Nice job Scorch! Thanks for compiling and sharing the "guide". It speaks volumes! It certainly will help folks to the maximum!

 

O2 Sensors

1.Ok, when you pop your hood, remove the top plastic shroud or cover that is on the top of the engine like you would to change your spark plugs.

2. look at the backside of your engine and if you look close enough, you will see two sets of exhaust pipes that join into a V shape. Your engine is classified in 2 banks. Bank 1 is everything associated with cylinders 1,2 and 3. Bank 2 is associated with cylinders 4,5 and 6. Bank 1 has three pipes covered with a heat shield going from the top end of the engine down under the car. From the passenger side, you will see bank 1. From the drivers side, you will see bank 2 and you will see where both banks begin to join together to lead under the car.

3. You're gonna have to stick your head down in there but on each side, you will see two plugs. They are directly between the back of the engine and the firewall. One will be about 8 inches above the other on each side. The top one is your primary or upstream. The bottom one will be your secondary or downstream. Each plug has a grey insulation cover over it. Each plug is kinda brass colored and will protrude about 2 inches from the exhaust and have a small collar around it.

4. Spend the time and 10 dollars and go to your parts store and get an O2 sensor socket. If you dont, you will spend several hours trying to get the sensors in and out versus 2 or 3 minutes. The socket will be heavy duty metal and have a slit cut out in the side of it to get it in and out without cutting wires. If you have trouble getting them out, use a bit of penitrating oil then try again.

5. Once you get them out, make certain that your new ones have "Anti-Seize" on the threads and put them in. Once they are all in and connected, double check your vaccum tubes. There are several back there that are easily bumped and unplugged. If you dont re-connect them, your car will run like crap.

The universal sensors are good. Bosche makes them and they cost about 70 bucks each. You will have to attatche the old connector to the new wires. It takes a little time but its easy.

Make sure you do this with a cool engine. Makes life a little more pleasant.

Have fun!!!

 

I'm curious why centerforce says the Bank 2 is on the driver's side? I have a US left side drive car, so the Bank 2 is on the passenger side, right?

He must be a right seat driver I guess.

Bank #2 = right side of vehicle as you sit in it, facing forward.

Oh, and one other question: I should be able to order the same part number as the other sensor on Bank 1 Sensor 1 that I replaced last year, right?

Yep! Only diff between sensor #1 and #2 that I am aware of is the wire length, assuming one is getting the assemblies w/the harness connector on the end already. Side doesn't matter.

 

Well, Max, I've hit the wall. I cannot get a wrench on the sensor and not even close to whatever is holding the wiring clip. I think I will need to disconnect the exhaust below the cat convertor and pull the exhaust manifold to get to the sensor. I don't mind the extra work, but we all know how it goes when you try to loosen exhaust bolts on a 7 year old vehicle. One rounded nut and I have a lot of problems.

 

You need THIS 22mm socket for the sensor...

and MY (retired Sailor) vocabulary to help get the harness disconnected.

 

Ok mate, tomorrow AM I am going to start hunting for a Snap On dealer here in Houston. Maybe this will work? And maybe AutoZone has it for loan!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp?bodyContent=exhaust

 

Yep! The socket is a must. Good idea on a "loaner" tool too!

 

Well, I gave up trying to get the plug apart, couldn't budge it. So, instead, I cut the wires at the sensor. That allowed me to get my MC wrench on the sensor and get it off easy enough.

Then I used needle-nose pliers to hold each wire and trim the insulation, and connected to the new sensor wires with crimp connectors. I looped the excess up to a wire bundle on the firewall. I will not have this problem when I need to replace the sensors next time, now I have plenty of slack in the wires to cut and connect.

Passed emmissions inspection.

 

Adding info / pics on how to remove the connector from its engine mounting bracket...

See...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...ki-vitara-grand-vitara-xl-7/39435-2002-tracker-vitara-2-0l-4cyl.html#post232214

 

Update: I see Autozone is selling that 22mm sensor socket for around $9 now. Not the part online, but in the generic packaging with the jaw pullers.

 

P0153

so i have a 2004 verona also about 110 k
and finally getting the P0171 P0174 and P0153 O2 sensor codes.
my mechanic friend is simply refusing to let me believe it's only a matter of the O2 sensor. He keep saying there are many reasons for the thing to read oil running lean. P0153 is Os sensor slow circuit or something like that, should i try to change the O2 sensor first or just take it to the shop

*there were problems with the cars electrical system, i had to replace the fuse harness

 

Your friend makes a valid point.

See this article...
Oxygen Sensor Codes - A Complete Guide On Diagnosing Automotive Oxygen Sensors

I'd suggest first conducting the preliminary maintenance as described in the article and then clearing the ECU codes (battery disconnect or with scan machine), followed by another scan to observe what codes return and pop up first. This will allow you to better diagnose the problem.