Been there!

Get the Zuki code scanned to find out which ONE sensor is probably at fault (doubt it's more than one). The scanner read out will pin-point the location / faulty sensor.

You can go OEM, generic, or universal sensor replacement. The cost varies SIGNIFICANTLY.

Let us know how it turns out and/or if you need more assistance.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...g/suzuki,2004,verona,2.5l+l6,1432666,exhaust+&+emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132

 

I ordered them already

Thanks for the link to those other post, very enlightening. I had the codes scanned at Auto Zone and they said I needed all four (probably lied to me). But I decided to order all four away online. I just need to know where they physically are located on the vehical. I intend on replacing them myself if no special tools are required.

 

Get a 2nd opinion! All four toast?!? Don't think so.

Did the light come on recently ONLY, or have you been living w/the prob? I'd ask the code reader to CLEAR the codes as well. Something fishy appears to be going on. Computer maybe?

Have you jump started the car recently? Washed the engine bay? Had OTHER work done? Replaced the battery?

What engine do you have? I'm a GV guy, but someone here can help on the sensor location. Mine were a PITA to get to FWIW.

Max

 

I have been living with this problem for a several months. Intermitent at first, but solid for some time now. Yes, I did jump a car a while back but the light was already on. The engine is a 2.5L. I have not had any major work done on the motor. Yes I did buy a new battery 6-8 mos ago, I don't think the engine light was on at the time but can't be sure.

Still looking for help with the OS location

Now that I have ordered them I'm going to replace them all. But I still need a reference to where they are? Someone please help.

 

Pics! 2.5L and 2.7L V-6 configuration

Rear view of engine showing the UPPER two sensors. Now, directly below and after the cat converter (but not pictured) are the 2nd set of sensors. Bank 1 & 2 number 2 sensors.



Bank 1, sensor #2

These next pics are of the wire lead CLIPS that you have to disengage from the wiring harness. The area is REAL tight to get to. I used a super small screw driver to break the bond. I went in from below the car to access it. On the clip pic...don't worry about those little SIDE retaining clips. They hold the end of the plug TOGETHER, but not to the mating harness plug half.

The must have tools...22mm sensor socket and flex head wrench.

Disengaging the CLIPS was the hardest part. Hope this helps.

Max

 

Rear view of engine showing the UPPER two sensors. The one boxed is Bank 2, Sensor 1. Next to it (opposite side) on the left is Bank 1, Sensor 1. Now, directly below and after the cat converter (but not pictured) are the 2nd set of sensors. Bank 1 & 2 number 2 sensors?

url=https://imgur.com/yrNgrXD]

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Max

2. look at the backside of your engine and if you look close enough, you will see two sets of exhaust pipes that join into a V shape. Your engine is classified in 2 banks. Bank 1 is everything associated with cylinders 1,2 and 3. Bank 2 is associated with cylinders 4,5 and 6. Bank 1 has three pipes covered with a heat shield going from the top end of the engine down under the car. From the passenger side, you will see bank 1. From the drivers side, you will see bank 2 and you will see where both banks begin to join together to lead under the car.

Here I am, back in the O2 sensor thread. I never dreamed, growing up as a boy on the farm, that I would be engaged in a life-or-death struggle with impossible to reach O2 sensors, but here I am. ^_^

Yep, my car was due for state inspection back in Jan but since I got a Check Engine Soon light about two months after I replaced the first O2 sensor (14 months ago), I have been putting this off. Well, I finally decided to take the car in to get the inspection, and naturally, it failed. This time the Fault Code is: P0051: HOS2 Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 1 So, that means I need to replace the one in Max's box, right? I'm curious why centerforce says the Bank 2 is on the driver's side? I have a US left side drive car, so the Bank 2 is on the passenger side, right?

Oh, and one other question: I should be able to order the same part number as the other sensor on Bank 1 Sensor 1 that I replaced last year, right?

thanks!

 

I still contend that not ALL of your sensors are faulty, BUT...Zuki recommends sensor replacement at 100,000 miles in support of your changing them out.

I'm still enjoying terrific engine performance and 25/26 MPG jaunts!

 

I thought we were talking about a Verona?
The previous pics are excellent but for the GV/XL V6 engine not the straight inline 6 used on the Verona.

But to clarify the positions. Bank 1 is sensors are BEFORE the catalytic converter. Bank 2 is after the converters. So, Bank1 Sensor 1 is top sensor closest to the drive belts. B1S2 is closest to belts but downstream after the converter. Bank2 is of course the driver side sensors.

Again, this may be covered under warranty!

 

And the O2 related codes are...

as follows. Once you retrieve them from the code scanner you can pinpoint the faulty sensor right down to the bank and sensor #.

http://www.troublecodes.net/suzuki/

 

The previous pics are excellent but for the GV/XL V6 engine not the straight inline 6 used on the Verona.

Hmmm....Don. Have I confused the issue? Techfella said that he's running a 2.5! Is that not the V-6 H25 engine? Again, I'm a GV guy.

Edit: It appears that the in-line is a 2.5 as well!
Suzuki Auto

 

Update

While waiting for the new sensors to arrive I went and got that second opinion. You were right, only one is testing bad. Sensor 1, bank 1. Also getting a error code P1443 EVAPORATIVE EMMISION SYSTEM CONTOL VALVE. I would think these these are somehow related problems. Any chance these things are covered under that fabulous warrantee they advertize? The car has 65K, bought in Aug. 04


PS: I bought the tools recommended.

FYI: I do have the inline 6 - 2.5L engine in the Verona

 

Isn't your warranty period 36,000 miles or 3 years? If so, and you are not covered by an optional extended warranty, you're SOL unless there is an (unlikely) recall that covers repairs.

My guess is that the two code probs/components are not related. But that is an educated (gut) feel.

 

Hello

I have just joined the forum and as techfella said, this is great info.
I have a 2004 Epica with 61000 km and the check engine light just came on. Would it be a safe bet to change the oxygen sensors without getting a computer reading or are there a bunch of other things that can be wrong? Also, I would be interested in hearing back from techfella as to the progress and difficulty of changing the sensors. I am fairly good with car repairs once I know what is wrong.

I would like to add that since I bought this car in Sept 04, it has been one repair after another and now that the bumper to bumber is over, I don't want to pay too much for repairs.
Thanks

 

Max is right about getting the code scan. After I had mine done, I found one other thing that with need fixing beyond the O2 sensors. The sensors haven't arrived yet so I can't give you any update on the progress. When I do jump on it I will let you know. I like my Verona, but from everything I've read the car has a bad rep on the reliability side. Parts are not that easy to find (aftermarket expecially) and the repair cost is about average. My plan is to get it back to a reasonable trade in value and sell it. Good luck.

 

Check RockAuto's prices...
2004 SUZUKI VERONA Oxygen Sensor

You probably laid out some heavy $'s on all the sensors Tech. You COULD not take receipt of the soon to be delivered sensors you're waiting on (sending them back), or if possible, simply return the ones you don't need. Don't know what your suppliers return policy is. Just a thought.

Not sure of your location, but RockAuto out of NJ ships same day.

And Frenz...you can pick up a OBD2 scanner off e-bay for $30.00 plus shipping as I did IF you think that you could use it on future scanning needs as well.

Example... eBay Motors: Enhanced OBD II OBD2 Code Reader Scanner Engine Check (item 190080216997 end time Feb-12-07 07:30:00 PST)

 

Rock Auto is where I ordered from, paid in the $60-70 range. It did cross my mind to replace only the bank 1 sensor found on the scan and send the others back. I just figured if one is bad the others might not be far behind. Is that not good logic?

 

Good thing I scanned my car. Nothing to do with the oxygen sensors. I got code P0700 (Transmission module) P0442 (small leak) and P1673 (hot engine light). GM changed my fuel guage sensor about a month ago. Is it possible that they caused the P0442 error? My gas cap seems to be fine. From what I have read, the other 2 codes are not anything to be concerned about.

I would appreciate a response from anyone.

Thanks

 

Sensor madness

I don't know what to say about your code issues. I wouldn't neglect any trouble code the computer spits out. Seems like the domino effect happens if you let one go, something else pops up. Example, I went to the dealer today just to confirm what Autozone found regarding the oxygen sensor. Now I'm getting two other errors, P1443 evaporator emmission value and one for the wheel speed sensor. What ever that is, the part cost $200+ they say it's a computerized sensor.

Anyway, I just got the O2 sensors today and will let you know how the installation go's.

 

Update for whom cares

Today I installed two of the four O2 sensors and it wasn't too bad. I had fewer issues with the plastic clips that Max reference because they are located on top of the engine near the firewall and easy to unplug. Getting to the sensors was not so bad on the passenger side, on the drivers side it's much tighter (which is why I stopped with two). The layout of the inline six is different than the pics Max put up. The way they are positioned in relation to the manifold and catalytic converted, lead me to guess the bank 1 sensors are on the passenger side because they appear before the CC (which you can't actually see because of a heat sheild). I will snap some pictures later this week and put them up. Anyway, I had the codes scanned and the P0031 is indeed gone.
However, more codes have surfaced so the engine light was back on within the hour. I have ordered the evaporator emission control system valve from the dealer (a $50 part) and will be replacing that soon. My bigger problem is that dreaded wheel sensor problem that has my ABS light on. This is something I will need the dealer to handle because I can't even figure out where they are :huh:

 

Wish my issues were as simple

Techfella, thanks for the info but the code P0700 turned out to be my gas cap. Up here in Canada gas spiked up to $4.50/gallon and I've been putting in only a few gallons at a time hoping the price falls after the so called gas shortage we have is over. It was alledgedly caused by a refinery fire. I must have not tightened the cap properly. After about 5 on/off cycles of my engine, the engine light went off. I have no clue what the other codes were, but I won't worry if the light is off. At least these cars keep us learning.

$4.50/gal ouch! I'm in Chicago and we average $2.50 right now. I wish my problems boiled down to a gas cap.
Anyway, I'm glad I bought a ODB-II scanner, it does take the guess work out of trying to fix the car. It helped me track down a vacum problem and a faulty spark plug. I wish I knew more about the ABS code P1382, it simply says wheel speed sensor. There are four on the car and it could be anything between the computer to the sensor on one of the wheels. Max, if are still reading this thread, I would appreciate any insight. I inspected all the obvious stuff, wiring harness, brake pads, fluid levels, everything looks fine. The car brakes OK, but with the ABS light on means that safety feature is not operable.
FYI: I subscribed to AutozoneDIY.com which has proved helpful in sorting this out, but I'm a little lost on this problem.

 

More problems than I can handle

First let me say I wish I had never bought this damn car. I live in Chicago and have the worst time finding parts or service centers for my 04 Verona. Back in March I posted some O2 sensor questions and thanks to a few great posters I managed to order and replace two of the four with little trouble. But now it seems the problem is back and I also have issues with the "injector harness". The car running running rough at idle and acceleration speeds. I took it to the dealer and got a laundry list of needed repairs to the turn of $1300+. I'm sick to my stomach about all the problems and the extended warranttee I have is only covering the injector harness ($300). I think the dealer is jerking me a bit because they didn't want to deal with the warrantee company until I persisted. Other evidence is the ABS light is on and my code scanner says it's a wheel speed sensor, yet the dealer says nothing came up on the diagnostics. Then why is the ABS light on? Plus the wheels make a hoorible screetching noice at very low speeds. It's not the brakes because I had rebestos pads put on in June.

Anyway, I'm posting the list of repairs in hopes someone sees it and can offer some advice on what I can do myself vs. recommending the dealer do it. Bottom line is I don't have $1000 to pay for the repairs.

Injector wiring harness (thats being fixed under warrentee) $300
Vacume canister ($149)
Intake solenoid ?($51)
O2 sensors ($150 ea.)
Wheel senors (4) I have no idea which one(s) are faulty because the dealer said nothing is coming up on the diag.
:huh:

Also are all the trouble code I got
P1382
P0305
P0306
P0032
P1443

 

Dang Tech, you sound pretty bummed out.

How about another dealer in the area? Worth a try for some honest answers and warranty coverage maybe?

You've got a handle on the O2 sensors from before.

On those codes...I assume that you've already broken them all down. If not, let me know which one (one's) are still not ID'd, and I'll try and figure them out.

I don't like the sounds (literally) of the ABS / brake system. That needs priority attention, as I'm sure you feel the same way. Double check the caliper pistons, pads and rotors, even though recently installed w/new pads. Something is foul there.

We're here for ya! Hang in there and take it one problem at a time.

 

O2 sensors

Thanks again for responding. Going to another dealer is the plan when I get the car back next week. I'm letting them fix the injector harness becuase the car is there already and it's covered by the warranttee.

Check this out, the service guy says ALL the O2 sensors are the wrong kind. If you remember I only replaced the two before the cat converter (which I did not tell him) but he insist all are the incorrect parts. I bought the car new so the parts I didn't replace should be OEM. Thats another reason I think their jerkin my chain. However, I am wondering if the Bosch universal O2 sensors I bought were incompatible? Can you point me to a place to buy OEM parts? I'm having a hard time finding things for the car.
Anyway here's the code breakdown from Alldatadyi.com

DTC P0031 Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Heater Low Voltage
DTC P1382 Wheel Speed Sensor Malfunction (dealer said nothing came up on this, but I found it in my test)
DTC P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
DTC P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
DTC P1443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Malfunction (stuck in Open Position) I wonder is this the "intake solenoid" he referred to?

 

I bought some axle seals from this dealer...Suzuki Depot / Tom's Truck Parts, out of Calif. 1-800-238-9308.

SUZUKICARPARTS.COM - Order Parts Parts:Largest Inventory of New Suzuki Parts in the USA!

Did that, rather than hassle w/the local dealer / trip.

On the O2's not being the correct ones per the dealer...not sure how he came up w/that. Part # or visual ID? FWIW, I believe those area OEM sensors are the same except for the wiring portion (diff lengths on my V-6 for instance) thus diff part #'s.

 

Parts

Thanks for the parts lead, them seem to have everything I need. As to the O2 sensor thing, the service manager did a visual ID and said they were the wrong ones because I did have to crimp the original plugs on the new ones. But again I only replaced two of the four so he's still right. Anyway, I'm just waiting for them to finish the harness repair, should get the car back next Tues or Wed. I'll keep you posted.

 

Got it back, but not fixed

If this were a horse I could just shoot it and be done with this nightmare. I picked up my car yesterday and it runs as bad as before. They replaced the harness? a PVC valve and a rubber hose. During the inspection and diagnosis part the service manager tells me there is a major problem with the "short block" they run a compression test and it shows 160psi on cylinder #4. What any of this means if greek to me. He said "IF" Suzuki approves it under warrentee I get a new engine. However, the word is they want 10 oil change reciepts showing I did my part in maintaining the car before they would even break the engine down for a further inspection. The dealer I bought the car from went belly up 18-24 months ago no one seems to have the old service records. Occording to Suzuki the dealers don't not transmit that data to them. Besides, on at least three occassions I changed to oil myself (I'm old school). Anyway, I feel like I'm about to be let out in the cold here. I am taking to another dealer next week because I got horrible service at this last one. The service manager was a real a-hole. More on the saga later.