sorry, (that photo is old, ditch it)

you over apply my 1inch rule ! by 0.19685 " (5mm)
as you may not know
that pedels break at 2 points. and the cables , fray and streatch.
the 1 inch is just a guide lines.
read the manual, please ,or my whole page not just my (obsolete) photo above. set the free play,
here is the link, and was off sticky3 all the time.

if you have zero free play it burns up the T/O bearing
just like it does riding the clutch.

free play at the pedal, in ****** inches is
1/4 to 1/2"
not only that , your photos is over 2 years old, i revised it long ago.
so get a new photo, sorry ! for the confusion.
also in the sticky 3 is the 96fsm, so you can read that verbatim at any time.
on clutch settings.... cheers and good luck.
My clutch is sick what is wrong

see chapter , 7C for the FSM words...
its all there. (cept my crude 1 inch rule)

Ack's FAQ 1996 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual

 

Thanks for the links and advice you provided. It seems my plastic floor carpet was preventing my pedal to move its lowest position. There was no cracks in the pedal system. Plastic Carpet reached under the pedal and after I removed it, clutch pedal and lever travels more than one inch, actually

But still Im not allowed to give pedal or lever any freeplay. Everything must be quite tight or otherwise clutch dont disengage enough. I assume this means my clutch is gone already bad and will get worse in the future... Some day I have to replace whole clutch kit.

 

sorry, and yes feeling any kick cable free play is near impossible, due to heavy
cable friction, best is do it under car, at the lever.
get just 1/8" play there, the FSM shows both ways, btw.
it only needs some play,
if set way too much free play the clutch action , will be odd.
your clutch is not bad.

yes, floor mats that just cost Toyota , 1billion bucks.... amazing huh?

 

Yes, I have tried to feel lever freeplay, lying under the car, but I cant feel it. I can feel it, if I loosen the cable end nut much more, but then clutch wont work well. Maybe my arm is too weak to notice freeplay as it should and lying under the car, in hard position doesnt make it easier. But anyway if I adjust the cable so that it is tight and clutch works, and then I drive the car with fourth or fifth gear pushing throttle strongly, clutch doesnt slip at all. So probably my adjustment is within the specs.

Yeah, those floor mats in my car are not the original ones after the previous owner and they wont fit very well. They are too big, which means in drivers side it caused problem with the clutch pedal

 

it is hard to feel the free play. ( a new clutch cable , is more easy to adjust, for sure, and well lubed. , i use Harley cable lube kit on mine)
it only takes a tiny bit on the bottom side.
here is the alternate fSm , bottom play spec.

1.5mm at lever. or 0.060 inches. (yes tiny)
Clutch Actuator , linkage failures and detailed photos. - Image 23 of 24

 

Ok, thanks again. That 0,5-1,5mm almost impossible to feel

 

keep in mind
all you are doing is saving the Throw out bearing for early death.
and is pain on the kick.
Make sure the pedal spring works and retacts 100 %
then try to get a tiny bit of fee play down below.
that is all you can do. (assuming cable is fresh)

 

I´ve been test driving now couple of days. The reason I replaced the clutch cable was:

1. Sometimes was very hard to get first gear in. When trying to push stick in, something was preventing it strongly (no grinding) and car wanted to move forward little bit while pushing the stick. Sometimes it was also hard to disengage gear.

2. Clutch was dragging sometimes and didnt fully disengage (for example when stopping in traffic lights)

3. Sometimes reverse gear was grinding when trying to engage reverse gear.

After clutch cable replacement and adjustment, these problems are almost won, but same problems are still occuring on much slight level though.

Should I still try to adjust the cable? All I can do is adjust cable tighter and I dont like to do that because of freeplay.

Or should I start to think that real problem is those plastic parts:

The Ring ID 19 , is 28117-60A00 $3.48 GM P/N is: 9605-8384 $4.90

The shift tip ID 27, is 25551-60A01 $3.20 GM P/N is: 9606-7099 $3.94 < (citical to shifting!)

 

when the tranny balks that is the warning before the grind,
its telling you the Synro's are unhappy. (the are saying, I can match the speeds !)
the balk. (or is it?)

not shifting at all is a totally different issue..

the plastic parts the donut one, must not be missing ./worn or cracked.
if not you can't even select a gear. (most times)

if you removed the shift lever, and shifted with a screw driver,
you'd see the gear shift ok, proving the lever is bad.(plastics)
no balks say 1 to 2, 2nd to 1st. Reverse is the hardest, test that first.

but if you did that, you'd already see the bad donut...... anywhy.

you can fix any clutch just using the bucks test.
1 new donut. $5
2: new cable $23
3: new clutch $950 (parts $150) labor is 8hr x $100 (a lost weekend../..)

i cant imagine a more easy choice.

 

By the way. Is there any hatch, opening or similiar somewhere in the clutch, so I could see inside the cover.

Came to my mind, if could get any hints if my clutch plate is dirty. I mean oil. I had oil leak from valve cover and maybe it is possible that dripping oil reached also my clutch plate This could cause that clutch is not disengaging well...

 

no INSPECTION hole. in bell.
sorry.
no inspection for an oil soaked disc, it's buried deep anyway.

the leaking, dizzy housing can also soak a clutch (classic failure here, so common )
see here.
id drips down back of head, its bell, at the top of bell is a vent
it runs inside, and bingo.
see it.

thats right. the disc will swell when oil soaked, or just slip. or both.


NO HOLES

that oil catching vent seen top here.see slot?

 

Sorry, can you explain what is dizzy housing? Other words, please... I dont know what dizzy means here.

 

sorry, google shows. 1.7mil hits. "dizzy distributor" it's not something i made up,

the distributor, most guys hate to type that 10,000 times.
so use the slang.
sorry.
the distributor houses base, leaks in 2-3 places, 1000s of hits on this forum.
at the O-ring
and the housing base.
its a classic failure, in that they all did it before 20 years hit the clock.

hard to find parts, some are very hard !

the 16v is on more fail
it uses,. RTV in part to seal the base.
this is covered in the FSM under that topic here.
Ack's FAQ Tracker Factory Service Manual Engine Mechanical 1.6 L 16-valve VIN Code 6

the RTV part, seals the rear of the rocker rail....

the RTV goes on the circle parts at pencil tip.

 

Okay, now I understand. By the way, today is warm (0 Celcius) and wet weather and clutch works and disengages like new. Clutch pedal feels also light. Never been this good, during last six months. All I have done is replaced clutch cable... Lets see when weather gets again colder and dryer, shall Clutch start to work more lazy.

 

the cable can be lubed, with any old style Harely cable lube kit
in fact can use special cold rated lube. like Mobil1 syn lube or Aircraft lube.

great the clutch is good, the cables are funky, for sure...just like bikes and motorcycles.

 

I have had a similar problem with my 99 grand vitara, problems changing gear in 1st AND 2nd , thought it was the cable as it seemed not to engage enough, i found it to be the pivot bolt supporting the clutch pedal and break pedal. there is a 6" bolt that acts as a pivot when you push the pedal , this was bent so it moved the pivot position causing the cable to seem short, i removed this bolt and straightened it in a vise , this solved my gear changing problem

 

Jarpaa, my clutch is doing the same thing yours did last year. What was your Solution?

 

The real problem of my clutch, at the end, wasnt cable at all. The reason was small oil leakage behind the engine, what was found the way inside the clutch casing during the years. Leak comes from distributor housing or near it and from valve cover (at least) The casing was covered with black oil, dust and sand mixture from inside, and it caused problems, specially during winter time when this mixture started to go stiffer. There is couple of pictures, I have send to this site somewhere.

I removed the transmission, opened the clutch casing and cleaned everything. Then I installed new original clutch kit, like pressure plate, pressure bearing etc. Everything is working very well now, the car is like new. I´m very happy I made that "big" clutch repair work and it wasnt so big at all when you think it afterwards. I didnt have any experience of clutch repair works before hand.

I still have those small oil leaks. I tried to tighten all the nuts (they were loose by the way), but probably it is not enough and I have to follow up it still.