[2013GV]

perfectly normal, the cam "bearings" are part of the head casting itself. As long as wear is not excessive and in spec, then every thing can be reused. If either head or cam are worn and out of spec, replacement of either or both parts may be required.

 

[BraveHelios]

Ah, okay. So if I decide to replace the cam because there is a small chunk of cast metal missing from it (see previous picture), I can do so without replacing the head as well (gosh I hope that is the case!)?

 

[2013GV]

Ah, okay. So if I decide to replace the cam because there is a small chunk of cast metal missing from it (see previous picture), I can do so without replacing the head as well (gosh I hope that is the case!)?

yes, as long as the head bearing surfaces and dimensions are within spec, if they are worn past the specified limits (check as per manual) then you may be in for a head as well.

 

[BraveHelios]

I will chime in here since I just got my swap running...

Mechanically, it's simple enough. Mounts, flywheel, clutch, trans, rad hoses all work the same.for both motors, heater hoses need to be from the 16V. Obviously you need both manifolds from the16v as well. Fuel pump will work but you need the fuel feed line from the 16v. The soft one from the frame to the rail, has a sort of flare nut where the hard line from the frame attaches to the soft line to the engine.
Airbox needs to be transferred from the 16v, the coolant overflow needs to be moved and cruise control module if you have it.

Electrically it sounds simple, but it can be intimidating and time consuming. I wish I had the entire dash harness available to me as I feel it would have been easier (I'll tell you what I did and you can decide).

I grabbed as much of the donor harness as I could but someone had been in there before me hacking things. I had the harness from the ECU going out to the engine, up to the steering column, as far right as the heater box as thats where it was cut, and the fuse box and main/fuel pump relays.

I spent alot.of time widdling it down. I was left with the ECU plugs, main and fuel pump relay plugs (swapped over the power in wires and out wires from the original harness), basically stripped it down to whatever didn't go between the engine harness (you'll find it has 2 plugs) and the ECU. The stretch of wiring that has the plugs for the MAF and IAT also has the headlight wiring in it, I separated it away.

Basically I had a harness from my ECU going to my MAF and IAT, then to the engine harness and anything that wasn't run off that harness I transferred over from the original harness. Think speed sensor input, igniter output, power steering pressure input etc.... If you'd like I can look at my list the next time I'm around the truck, but I think this atleast gives you an idea....

My thread is in this section near the top somewhere...

Cheers

So today I removed all of the wiring from the sidekick from under the dash and engine without cutting a single wire. It required that I remove the dash and that was not too bad but only because it was a one way job... not going back in the same vehicle. Only wiring left in the sidekick are the wires heading to the back that run along the drivers side kick jam/floor area and wires going into the front doors.

Considering what I had to do to the sidekick to remove the wiring that Trail Tough wants to modify it to work in the Tracker... which is pretty much all of the wiring; I am now wondering what they would exactly modify? The wiring harness is out; I should just be able to swap it into the Tracker; don't you think?

Any thoughts?

Pictures are of the different wiring harnesses... again, no wires cut. Appears to be in three segments; one is for the fuel injection, one (main?) is for many things and one is for the dash dimmer, side mirror adjusts etc...

Trail Tough says they would need all except the segment that head to the rear. What do they modify?

 

[2013GV]

they modify it for the different ECU and engine control systems / sensors and injection

 

[BraveHelios]

But if I'm swapping the engine and including all of the wiring and the ECU, what's left to modify?

 

[Epic_username]

But if I'm swapping the engine and including all of the wiring and the ECU, what's left to modify?

I saw their modifying service as well, and what I took it as more so for people swapping an 8v or 16v into a samurai. I think in your case, as long as the years are close enough, like both OBD1 or OBD2, you should be able to just put the whole donor harness into your truck.
The only things that may be different, at least that I can think of, would be maybe instrument panel (do both have tachometers?) and heater controls (A/C?)

Edit
I looked back and saw your donor was a 1996. It should still work, I see no reason why the wiring to the rear and doors would be too different.

Instrument panels may be too different between the OBD1 and OBD2 units. You'd have to compare and make a decision. Is the 1996 speedometer electric or cable?

The harness could be modified to work with your 1993 instrument panel, leaving the cable speedo in place, just making connections for your dummy lights and tach.

Of course I've never had an OBD2 cluster in hand so I can't say for sure

 

[BraveHelios]

I saw their modifying service as well, and what I took it as more so for people swapping an 8v or 16v into a samurai. I think in your case, as long as the years are close enough, like both OBD1 or OBD2, you should be able to just put the whole donor harness into your truck.
The only things that may be different, at least that I can think of, would be maybe instrument panel (do both have tachometers?) and heater controls (A/C?)

Edit
I looked back and saw your donor was a 1996. It should still work, I see no reason why the wiring to the rear and doors would be too different.

Instrument panels may be too different between the OBD1 and OBD2 units. You'd have to compare and make a decision. Is the 1996 speedometer electric or cable?

The harness could be modified to work with your 1993 instrument panel, leaving the cable speedo in place, just making connections for your dummy lights and tach.

Of course I've never had an OBD2 cluster in hand so I can't say for sure

Well, I was a bit off on the year of the sidekick; it is also a 93... same year as the tracker. The sidekick did come with some options like power side view mirrors and rear defroster of which the Tracker does not have. One thing the Tracker does have that the sidekick does not is air conditioning which I would like to fix and convert to R-134. Would the ECU or wiring from the sidekick need to be modified to allow the AC from the Tracker to work? I reckon I could just install a toggle switch to turn the AC on, just not sure about rpm drop and how to compensate...

 

[Epic_username]

Well, I was a bit off on the year of the sidekick; it is also a 93... same year as the tracker. The sidekick did come with some options like power side view mirrors and rear defroster of which the Tracker does not have. One thing the Tracker does have that the sidekick does not is air conditioning which I would like to fix and convert to R-134. Would the ECU or wiring from the sidekick need to be modified to allow the AC from the Tracker to work? I reckon I could just install a toggle switch to turn the AC on, just not sure about rpm drop and how to compensate...

In that case, since you've got the wiring harness anyways I see no reason you couldn't just install the HVAC controls from the dash of your donor into your truck. But adding a/c to a non a/c vehicle will require swapping at least part if not all of the heater box as well

 

[BraveHelios]

In that case, since you've got the wiring harness anyways I see no reason you couldn't just install the HVAC controls from the dash of your donor into your truck. But adding a/c to a non a/c vehicle will require swapping at least part if not all of the heater box as well

"Cool" but to clarify; it's the donor truck (the sidekick) that does not have AC and the only difference I see on the HVAC controls is push button switch... located on the Tracker... which will stay!

 

[2013GV]

check the wiring carefully, I suspect there will be an idle control circuit on the A/C vehicle that makes the ECU raise the idle when the compressor clutches in. If the 16V is not a/c equipped then this might be an issue as it may not be included in the ECU. Not sure how those models controlled the idle up on a/c.

As for converting to R-134.....not recommended.

Using R134a in Systems Designed for R22

If you have a auto air conditioner designed to work with R22 refrigerant, and the system needs a recharge, a number of issues prevent the direct substitution of R134a. For one, the cooling capacity of R134a is only 60 percent that of R22, so the system condenser has to work overtime to produce the same amount of cooling. Here are some other issues:

R134a has a lower thermal conductivity than R22, so an R134a system needs a larger heat exchanger.
A system circulating R134a needs a drier, because of the propensity of the refrigerant to absorb water.
R134a swells the rubber components in the refrigeration system and causes leaks.
R134a corrodes copper, so the system must include an additive to prevent it.
R134a systems require special lubricating oils that are, on the whole, inferior to those used in an R22 system.
The silicone based oil in R134a systems is not compatible with the mineral oil in R22 systems which means the entire system, including the compressor must be thoroughly cleaned of old oil traces before use.

 

[BraveHelios]

Update...

Took the head in for testing and had it planed. Came out fine.

So it looks like the project is a go.

Am looking at Rock Auto for parts and have some questions...

- What should I get to rebuild this engine! Every thing? Pistons, oil pump, rings?

- We know the head was fine. I reckon the rest of the engine is okay. What is typically replaced when rebuilding an engine as a "light" rebuild?

- Is there a way to test the existing oil pump to see if it is still okay?

- I asked before but even on Rock Auto it mentions replacing the cyl head bolts. Is that something that is typically replaced?

Thoughts?

 

[2013GV]

replace head bolts, its cheap insurance.

What was compression like? what pressures? what do bores look like? any side to side movement of the pistons? measure piston to cyl clearance and check against specs.

talk to the engine guy that did your head plane, or go chat to a rebuilder, easier to seek pro advice now, rather than spend money on bits you don't need, or that won't fit after machining.

 

[Donewrken]

- What should I get to rebuild this engine! Every thing? Pistons, oil pump, rings?

- We know the head was fine. I reckon the rest of the engine is okay. What is typically replaced when rebuilding an engine as a "light" rebuild?

- Is there a way to test the existing oil pump to see if it is still okay?

- I asked before but even on Rock Auto it mentions replacing the cyl head bolts. Is that something that is typically replaced?

Thoughts?

Replace the oil pump, pistons , rings , bearings, timing belt, water pump, tune up parts and use new head bolts.
If your going through the trouble of opening up the engine then you might as well do the best job you can. It makes no sense to do a half___ way job. The old saying of penny wise and dollar foolish applies to engines. It's a small engine and parts are not that expensive, your not talking about building a racing engine here. One word of caution on the Rock Auto parts, be sure to weigh the pistons. I bought a "set" for a four cylinder engine and had one piston weighing 4 ounces more than the rest, one was an off brand from the others.

Best of luck, you can do it!!

Don

^_^

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