I adjust the parking brake with this nut.
If I'm doing it wrong, I'm sorry.

 

The rear brakes will only self adjust if the handbrake cable has sufficient slack to allow the adjuster pawl to fully retract. Failure to self adjust often results from the cable only having two or three free clicks. Adjusting the handbrake to a position where there is minimal movement before grabbing is completely the wrong thing to do.The service schedule requires the handbrake to be checked and adjusted only at the first service, presumably when the cable has initially stretched and the shoes bedded in. Don’t adjust the cable before slackening it and applying the handbrake about 10 times to adjust the shoes.

 

Let cable off till you can get about 7 clicks out if it, apply hand brake slowly but firmly several times to adjust rear shoes then adjust cable to allow for 3 to 4 clicks when applying. At this point the rear shoes should continue to self adjust. Pull it on with a fair amount of force but don't jerk it on
Having insufficient slack in the cable does not allow the self adjusting mechanism to release far enough to engage the adjustment pawl.

 

Wot’s the point in trotting out exactly the same as the previous post four hours before?

 

Reading this, I have a major problem with a 2015 car (27,500 KMs on it), Rear Drum Brakes that is doing my head in. They keep getting stuck on/binding. After adjusting the Auto Adjuster to very loose, the handbrake cable is slack, cracking open the cylinder bleed valves on both sides and prying the drums off (damaging the Shoe Hold-downs), still no release of the brakes. Could the cylinders be rusty from lack of use and too much time with handbrake applied over the years?

 

Yes, that's a definite possibility after loosening the bleed Nipples. The pistons do get stuck, if they won't retract then you will probably be replacing them. Handbrake doesn't actually bear on the slaves, but they will rust up if water gets in there and they haven't had much use. Gently peel the dust boot off, if its rusty around the piston then there's your answer. Might just be at the outside ends and not on the sealing surface but do you want to run the risk?

 

If its sat for a while, especially if you're on the eastern side of Aussie the humidity wreaks havoc on brakes if the car hasn't been used. Let us know what you find finally.

 

If its sat for a while, especially if you're on the eastern side of Aussie the humidity wreaks havoc on brakes if the car hasn't been used.

I'm hearing you.

 

All done. Drums removed, everything cleaned and lubricated. Handbrake then adjusted to 6 notches. A question - do the rear brakes need inspecting as required in the schedule. I’ve removed the drums a couple of times and there’s only been a teeny amount of dust and the shoes are still practically unworn.

 

do the rear brakes need inspecting as required in the schedule. I’ve removed the drums a couple of times and there’s only been a teeny amount of dust and the shoes are still practically unworn.

They do need inspecting regularly for the sake of safety, but they really probably only do 20% of the braking task and the brake bias is heavily to the weight on the fronts. There is a way to see what I mean if you do a straight line test stop as-is, then pull up the hand brake a few notches, before binding, then do a comparative stop from same speed and you will notice a change in brake pedal level as the bias has been altered to more rear wheel braking. I don't advise driving like that normally, as some situation may cause the back end to lock up in slippery conditions.

 

Use your common sense, now you know what you are getting over what distance, schedule your checks accordingly. I pull the drums off the swift every 12 months just to blow the dust out and check the bearing grease. I could leave it a couple of years but its about the only way you will see a wheel cylinder getting damp etc.

 

Don't blow dust from brake components - use brake / clutch cleaner. It's against H&SE guidelines and was stopped many years ago in professional workshops. Although no longer containing asbestos - fine brake dust is something you don't want to be breathing! The specified 24 months / 25000 miles is in line with other manufacturers who fit drum brakes and on the Ignis it's so simple - the drums just pull off. Many cars have hub nuts which need removing and re-torquing and some of the laminated type nuts e.g. Ford need to be renewed each time.

The OE mentions lubricating everything but be sparing with grease on the sliding points and use Ceratec or similar. Ensure that the self adjusters are clean and free but don't lubricate - the grease picks up brake dust which causes the adjusters to clog and not self adjust.

 

Driven by a little old lady on Sundays syndrome

Good find, unfortunately as we suspected tho. They rust up on the pistons