sure anything is possible.
but what hardware, OEM ?
or are you talking about the universal kits with kudged in parts.
the windows are hard. the windows use these strange cables......
the locks are easy, "solenoid to lock , is not big deal"
the electronics is off the shelf and easy. (its programmable)

PS:

OEM parts "?
you need , drawings.
electrical and mechanical.

ill make up kit and send it.

keyless entry, elect. windows, etc.

door cards are , cardboard door panels. or circuit cards?

 

okay, I see your point, not really the answer to my question, lol

Yes the car has been broken into, but what i meant in my pm jtgh was, The soft roof got damaged and I couldn't afford to fix it at the time, so car has been off road for a while. Saved up my pennies and now have a hard roof (yay) Central locking would have an alarm (wont stop some people), but the main point is, that it is annoying having cars in our household with remote central locking and then you get to the vitara and have to stick a key in every blummin door.

I just want to mod the Vitara to be a little more modern and convienient. I;ve bought door cards from a 1996 model and am also fitting electric windows. central locking is usually a doddle but i've never done it on an older car, usually modern cars where i've bought the base model and put all the toys on myself (works out tonnes cheaper). Just wanted to know of others experience

 

keyless door upgrade and electric windows. etc

you just need the correct harness, and parts.
baring that , a very accurate schematic.

if you need the full data on 96 , electricals we have it.
Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo
here is the full book but the pages you need are in the missing chapter 8 book 2.

how ever I have the full schematics for 96.

here is windows.
more a next post

 

qod question of the day

what do you have 96 kick
where do you want to go ....?
Centeral contols , to what degree, and scope.

doors locks
windows
remote start
?

what parts are you going to use
all oem?
all after market
or a mix if yes, explain

that will produce the best answer.? or?

 

oem , complete schematics.

here is oEM


this shows the factory setup

if you need mech. door blow up drawings ,etc, or parts lay out
hollar.

its in the fsm too.

as is all.

 

Cheers, that will help a lot. I'm gonna go aftermarket. cheaper, and i've done it before with astra's and various Fords. was just browsing for peoples opinions, and initially wasn't sure how i'd fit em, cuz the door cards on pre 96 models are flat.

 

Central Locking Kit for Vitara JX4U (1998)

I'm interested to know, if as a non car person, could I fit a central locking kit to my 1998 Vitara JX 4U. I don't really know much about car electrics, but I am fed up having to unlock the car with a key every time it rains (which is a lot in Ireland). I seen a universal kit on ebay, and wondered if it would be wise for me to have a go, or should I leave it into a garage to have it fitted.

I looked at the diagrams above, and they look strange to me. Don't think I would know where to start, but id easy enough I would give it a go.

If I did leave it into a garage, what type of money would you expect to pay for such a job?

Any help would be really appreciated.

 

I just purchased the following items from electric-life.com :

LK01-10-122 - MES 2 DOOR POWER DOOR LOCK KIT - Electric Life - LK01-10-122 - MES 2 DOOR POWER DOOR LOCK KIT

SZ02-K FRONT 2-DOOR POWER WINDOW KIT - Electric Life - SZ02-K FRONT 2-DOOR POWER WINDOW KIT

4990-10-421 JOKER UNIVERSAL 2 DOOR BMW STYLE ILLUMINATED ROCKER 3 SWITCH KIT - Electric Life - 4990-10-421 JOKER UNIVERSAL 2 DOOR BMW STYLE ILLUMINATED ROCKER 3 SWITCH KIT

2 of 5050-10-099 RUBBER DOOR LOOM - Electric Life - 5050-10-099 RUBBER DOOR LOOM

These will be going into a 95 USA Fed, 1.6 L 16vlv MPI, Geo Tracker, 2 Door Soft Top, 5spd Manual, 4WD, MNL Hub vehicle.

The Window regulators are a direct bolt in for my Tracker. The Door Lock kit is a universal type so there will be major kludging there. The switch mounting I anticipate to be a major drag. I like the style of the switch holders, but I doubt they will be easily attached to the inner door panel in a strong manner. I will just have to see what I can come up with. I have a remote start viper alarm system (with microwave field for soft top), that i plan to incorporate the windows and locks into the spare channels of the alarm transmitter.

Since I know that Power windows were an option for my car, I tried for along time to find used salvage parts to make the change, but I finally gave up and ordered these earlier today. The power-locks I am sure could have been scrounged from other vehicle types but I figured since I was ordering the window kits I would be lazy and get the lock kits too.

I am attaching the pdf instructions for the powerlock kit, I called and asked for these prior to ordering.

I plan to document and take pictures when I work the project. I 'll start a new thread when I do.

randy

 

anything is ,
time and money , are limitless.

 

I have just fitted a Hawk Central Locking System to the two front doors of my Suzuki JX 4U. They were not hard to fit at all, and I have no car experience, and all is working well. The only problem I have now, is connecting the central locking to the GT 108 Alarm system. There are two wires coming from the Central Locking Module and if I can connect them to my current Alarm I can use the one fob to open and close the locking, activate and deactivate the alarm in one go.

If there is anyone out there that can help me I would really appreciate the advice. I have tried to search online for help on the alarm system, but to no avail.

There is some reference to the alarm system on the central locking instructions, saying "Only applies to Vehicle fitted with negative (-) lock/unlock output from the Alarm system. White wire is lock (-) input, Brown wire is unlock (-) input."

http://www.nutritionassessment.net/images/gt108-fitting-ins.pdf

 

DeckerZ,
According to the USER MANUAL FOR MODEL # CDL-04R / CDL-04 Hawk Central locking kit, and the Alarm Manual you included in your post:

On your Alarm module, the Dip Switch number three needs to be in OFF position. This will provide Negative outputs on the Door Lock Control wires.

So after making that Dip Switch setting, connect the following:
From Alarm Module:
Red & Blue wire with 5 amp fuse to Negative Ground on Vehicle.
(depending on how unit was originally installed, this wire may currently be connected to nothing, Positive 12volt source, or Negative Ground on Vehicle. Be sure and change it to Negative Ground on Vehicle)

Red & Gray wire to White (lock) wire on Power Lock Module.
Yellow & Gray wire to Brown (unlock) on Power Lock Module.

These instructions are based on the assumption that your Central Locking kit is CDL-04R / CDL-04 Hawk Central locking kit.

randy

 

Connection Block

Hi Randy, thanks for your reply. I took a photo of the Alarm with my mobile phone, so it's a bit hazy. There is a connection block on the back, and I notices a lot of wires have been cut at the base. There does not seem to be the corresponding wires that the manual of the Alarm refers to, the red and grey, and the yellow and grey. All the dip switches are set to off on the Alarm. The Central Locking System is Hawk CDL-04R.

Sorry about the size of this image, I took it with my mobile phone and cannot resize it.

Are you able to advise me where I should connect the wires from the Central Locking System?

 

Referencing the Pic you just posted, it hard to tell for sure, but it looks like:

On Large connector:

Red/Blue wire is on top row, second from right side.

Yellow/Gray is on second row, third from right side.
Red/Gray is on second row, fourth from right side.

Here is how you can test to be sure. Attach what we think is Red/Blue to Ground. Arm the Alarm and when that happens you should get a momentary ground signal on what we think is the Red/Gray wire. Disarm the alarm and you should get a momentary ground on what we think is the Yellow/Gray wire. You can do this with a test light or volt meter, but since this could very well be a less than a second momentary signal, a test light might be easier to see.

Not sure how you will splice into those little stubs of wire though, I have never had to overcome that situation.

randy

NOTE: Above instructions were written to different picture that poster later edited. It had the connector block in an opposite left/right and top/bottom position.

 

Hi Randy, thanks for your prompt reply. Are you saying I should ground the Red/Blue wire and arm the alarm and I should see a momentary ground signal, what is that and how would I see it? I do have a multimeter, but no idea what I should do here! What is a test light, and how would I connect it?


What would be the worst that could happen if I just made the connections with the suspected wires? eg connecting the wires to:Yellow/Gray on second row and Red/Gray on second row?

Thanks for your help.

 

Are you saying I should ground the Red/Blue wire and arm the alarm and I should see a momentary ground signal,

Yes, the momentary ground signal would be at the lock wire.

what is that and how would I see it?

1. Take your volt meter, and connect the Red probe to positive 12 volt DC from your car.

2. Connect the Black probe to the Red/Gray on second row. Observe the meter reading. It will probably be close to 0 volts.

3. Now, while still maintaining connections, ARM your Alarm System. Watch the meter, it should have a momentary jump to around 12 volts, then return to whatever it was in step 2.

4. Move the black probe wire to the Yellow/Gray wire. Observe the meter reading. It will probably be close to 0 volts.

5. Now, while still maintaining connections, DIS-ARM your Alarm System. Watch the meter, it should have a momentary jump to around 12 volts, then return to whatever it was in step 4.

What would be the worst that could happen if I just made the connections with the suspected wires?

Worst case would probably be to ruin your alarm module and/or control module for Power door locks. Probably best to make the test above first. Especially since you are going to have to go to the trouble of repairing those cut wires. I would avoid doing that until i was sure they were correct wires.

randy

 

Testing The Wires!

Thanks Randy, I will try and get a better photo of the junction block to ensure the wires are coloured as we think they are. I will have to think about how to repair the wire stubs, for the test with the voltmeter never mind the actual connection of the wires, should they be the correct wires.

I will come back with some news when i am able to figure something out.

 

New Photos of Wlarm Wiring Block

Hi Randy,

it's been a long week at work and when I get home, it's been too dark to get any good photos. Today i as able to get home a bit early and it's nice and bright so I got the digi camera out and took some photos of the Alarm Wiring Block. Can you please tell me if the previous instructions should hold true, I just don't want to blow anything. I presume if the change in voltage is true when the alarm is armed for both wires I should go ahead and connect them permenantly???

Here are the photos resized.

 

Hi DeckerZ,

Yes, I still believe the wires I indicated in the previous post are correct, and further confirmed by your current pictures.

By the way, you asked what the worst would happen if you got the wires wrong and my response was in answer to "worst". Its possible nothing would be damaged, it just wouldn't work right. That being said, I still recommend doing the voltmeter tests as described earlier.

Also, I have been thinking about how you might repair those stubs. If you unplugged the connector, I am pretty sure that if you had something like a dental pic, you could insert that into the stub hole from the wire side of the connector and "release" the metal pin from the connector itself. This would give you A- more room to accomplish a splice, or B- (better) get new pins from radio shack or somebody like that and put in new pins with longer wires attached.

Keep us informed, I am curious to know how the voltage test goes.

randy

 

Rewire Block Sounds Good

Hi Randy,

That sounds like a good idea, to rewire the block going into the Alarm. Would I need to disconnect the battery or anything like that before I pull out that wiring block from the alarm system. I don't want to activate the alarm, and be not able to stop the siren cause I tampered with it, lol?

I will keep you informed as you have been great help to me.

 

Yeah, it's a pretty good idea to disconnect the battery anytime you are messing around with the wiring in general. Glad you brought it up.

randy

 

Job Done

The voltage test yielded no results, so I decided to solder the wires in place. I stripped down a little of the stumpy bits and applied some flux, then a little tin solder. I then connected the brown and the whte wires from the central locking, to the corresponding wires on the Alarm. Nothing happened, then I realised I forgot to ground it. Once I connected the ground wire, it all worked as I hoped. Amazing!

I did take some photos of the soldered wires, but they saved on the internal memory of the camera, not the SD card, so I have to hunt out the cable to connect it to the computer before I can post them here.

 

That's good news. So your next step is to actually hook up the repaired wires to the lock module or is that done too?

Congratulations.

randy

 

Central Locking Working Perfect

What a job, I'm so impressed I was able to complete it, and Randy I don't think I could have done it without your help.

It was a bit ackward to solder the wires, and I guess that's why they don't look so tidy. When I soldered the wires I just put some insulating tape round them to prevent them from touching, and ended it with a cable tie to hold them tight.

The only thing I didn't do was to insert an inline fuse to the Gnd wire. Do you think I need to do that? I don't wan't it to blow?

I am using only the alarm fob now, and the doors open when I dis-arm the alarm and the doors lock when I arm the alarm. I am so happy.

 

Hi DeckerZ,

Hey that is fantastic. Really glad you could accomplish the project.

I would definitely get that fuse installed. Its protection that the original design calls for so you don't want to fore go that. You can get them at places like radio shack.

Again, great job DeckerZ,

randy

 

Job Done!

That's the complete job done, I fitted the inline fuse yesterday, yea Easter Sunday, it's one of the only work free days! Here is a photo of the wires I soldered to the wee stumpy wires on the Alarm Block.

Thanks again randy for all your help, your really helped me big time on this one.

 

Light Flash

Hello i am in the process of fitting a remote locking kit to my 94 Vitara and am wandering if anyone could help me locate where i would connect the wire that makes the hazard light flash on lock/unlock?

Thanks James

 

Light Flash

Hello i am in the process of fitting a remote locking kit to my 94 Vitara and am wandering if anyone could help me locate where i would connect the wire that makes the hazard light flash on lock/unlock?

Thanks James

Do you found out yet? I have exactly the smae problem, i know i need green and purple wire but there are a shitton of them everywhere,