Hmmmmm, and when it turns on, the shift doesn't work, the system that shows you when to change gear.?????????

 

No it's automatic, so that never shows i think

 

P1091 is air flow meter invalid data
C1091 is invalid ecm data on can line / invalid torque control.

Theres a common supply and ground to the throttle body and AFM, Personally I suspect a bad connection or intermittent wiring fault.

This will require a diagnostician as that C1091 s a torque limit code that will disable Traction control immediately and can be wiring, bad connections right up to a bad throttle body. Not an ABS fault but will stop the ABS pump from operating.

Go find a decent diagnostician not a mechanic that's guessing and throwing parts at it.

 

I'm still trying to ascertain how you think a torque limit and AFM codes have anything to do with the ABS unit.

 

And for me to understand, I had to travel very far, to a very beautiful country and far ahead of all of us... the relationship is absolute and harmonious. Something like the relationship between a mother and son.......

 

Clean the throttle valve and body, this is a very common on swift.

 

Hi smashytech. Has there been a solution to your problem.

 

Not yes. Still ongoing. Mechanic have tried cleaninf the and connector but didn't work.

They did some tests and found out that some vacuum pressure was dropping. They're looking at that now.

 

If your mechanic CANNOT fix it.....then maybe you should take a vacation to wonderful Greece. We are here and I'll fix it.....very simple.......

 

Yeah i'll might just do that 😅

 

Hi all,

First of thank you all for your support. This is as mentioned driving me insane, and you guys help me keep my sanity.

We've tried the advises given in this thread but none have yet yielded any results. We're still getting error code P0101. However, we are getting closer now.

We can replicate the issue easily now. It appears when we're engine braking, like for example if you let go of the gas at a downhill.

The mechanic have looked and replaced MAP & MAF sensor, and have checked abs-sensors, checked cables for ground and other breaks.

With this new information, do you guys have any advice? 🙏😭



UPDATE! We have a breakthrough!
Just got a call from the mechanic. He couldn't let this go and disassembled the damper housing and rotated around the stuff inside. After he put it together again he couldn't get the error-code to appear again.
He called Suzuki Swedish support, and they told him that they've heard about this issue ONCE before. if that is true or not, i leave up to you. But it's starting to look promising! 🤞🤞🤞🤞 Crossing my fingers!!

 

Hi @smashytech, do you have any updates? I've the same issue with a Suzuki Swift 2014 automatic, and I'm also losing my mind. I've already sent it to 3 mechanics, including the Suzuki dealership, and they have not been able to find the issue.

Sometimes, the ESP light turns on a few minutes after starting the engine, but on some days, it takes several minutes of driving for the light to turn on. After the light is on, the car runs normally, but the ECU won't use the high gears, increasing the RPM at 70-100km/h.

The mechanics so far:

• Say that there is no error code
• Have replaced the ESP OFF button
• Replaced the battery
• Replaced the sparkplugs

I've cleaned the wheel sensors. No success.

If the battery is disconnected, the light disappears for a while but comes back after driving a bit. This behavior makes the problem more frustrating as the mechanics don't take the time to test the car and claim that issue has been solved after replacing whatever requires disconnecting the battery.

 

I had a similar issue where ESP (check my post) light and a bunch of other lights came on. I had to remove a 3rd party alarma controller and locate every single ground wire and clean them up. Issue fixed for me.

 

“I had the same problem, and after I changed the air filter, the ESP light went off immediately.”

 

Hi all, I have good news. The issue was solved by doing something similar to @smashytech, and it only cost me around 20 AUD to solve.

I cleaned the valve inside the throttle body (see the photo attached), which was getting stuck due to carbon accumulation at the edges. To clean this valve, there is no need to remove the air filter; just the big hose that connects the air filter to the engine. I did the following:

1) Warm up the engine, then turn it off.
2) Remove the hose and apply the cleaner product (Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner) while manually rotating the valve several times
3) Clean the inside of the valve with a cloth.
4) Reinstall the hose.
5) Start the engine and run at high RPMs for a few minutes.

Before this fix, the car was running poorly at low RPMs, the ESP light was ON, and the idle RPMs were dropping. Now the car is running perfectly again!

I hope this helps!

 

Good morning, it did NOT solve anything at all. The problem will come back and it is a matter of time. In an electric throttle, we DO NOT intervene manually on the throttle. Unfortunately, with what you did, it has a ρουτίνα The input is now out of calibration. It's a matter of time before it shows up again. In previous posts I describe the process in detail, but you probably like to do your own thing.....