download the FSM and follow the instructions

Rhinoman's Suzuki Service Manuals

 

Service manual is probably best. Found this site useful for more background context.

How to set ignition timing

 

Everything depends on proper valve timing (timing belt) and ignition timing (distributor). One way to confirm that the valve timing is correct is to do a compression test, and post your results, cylinder by cylinder. For 91+ vehicles, just remove the FI fuse, remove all spark plugs, have a well charged battery and floor the gas pedal as you crank about 5 to 6 times. Valve timing on all engines is set to cylinder #4 firing/compression stroke, and is done before moving on to ignition timing. The ignition timing is set to cylinder #1 firing. Firing order is 1,3,4,2….the 8v rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the 16v moves counterclockwise. Both the FSM and the fixkick site are good info.

 

Ohhhhhhh this helps a ton! I had always heard about it being timed on number four and never really made the distinction between valve timing and ignition timing. I thought both were done on number 4, which seemed odd on the ignition side. But what you said makes a lot more sense. Thanks for clearing that up for me!

 

Adjust the ignition timing between 8 to 10deg BTDC at idle speed.

 

Isn’t that for the 8 valve? I have the 16 valve and I thought it was 5° BTDC.

 

Ah, you put it in another thread: 1995 Suzuki Sidekick JLX, 4 door, 1.6l 16 valve, manual transmission. Put this info in your signature.

 

I feel dumb for asking because I feel like it should be super simple and obvious to do that, but how do I add it to my signature?

 

If you are only getting 20+ MPG, there is something wrong. Good chance it's the timing, of course, but there could be something else "wrong" as well. Get the timing accurate, and re-test your MPG.

But if you are only doing "city driving", 20+ might be all you can get.

 

He’s already advised he had it timed incorrectly, with ignition timed to #4

 

Ok so follow up question here:

So you get the E on the cam pulley and the notch on the crank gear pointing straight up. For the distributor part of things, do you leave those where they are and point the distributor rotor to number 1 or number 4? Or do you rotate the crank 360° (so the E points down) and then point the distributor rotor at number 1? If we have to rotate the crank 360°, why do we start with the E pointing up instead of just aiming it down to begin with?

 

You need to make sure that, when doing the timing belt, it is #4 cylinder that is in the firing position. When doing the ignition timing, you have to confirm that #1 is in the firing position. You would do this by rotating the crank and checking the position of the #1 cylinder, then confirming that the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug.