If images are too large, sorry, I just wanted a good view of what I was doing, resized all and cropped most tho.



These are the products I used, I didn't limit myself to EGR itself, I did it all in one fell swoop. We are talking about, MAF which I bought for it's own spray. I also cleaned MPS, TPS, IAC and maybe something more, that with the electronics parts cleaner which after checking the MSDS, MAF and Electronics Cleaner are the same except just one component which I doubt does anything, both are just Hexane and Hexane Isomers. The gasket remover didn't work at the said 15 minutes, but after 2 hours of continous soaking, the gasket went out fairly easy, so I'd recommend using it overnight. And Berryman B-12... WOW!!!! It's DANGEROUS about %50 is Toluene which is pretty dangerous for us humans BUT if you are careful... It is Unbeatable to displace the carbon, cleans like magic! Almost used it all in this procedure.



As you guys might recall, I was dead scared of forcing the bolts... LOL The bolt head was rusted a bit but as far as the bolt itself... the picture speaks! Should have forced it a long time ago.



These are SOME of the gaskets... First 2 are EGR valve gaskets one from metal one of ??? material the ones on the right are the EGR tube OLD ones, didn't take a picture of the new ones, same material as second ones.



This is my lovely EGR valve, didn't clean it inside at all... It does have carbon build up but nothing wow. So...





I cleaned the EGR tube, it gave me A LOT of carbon, it was endless, first it was black water lol and then some chunks of carbon fell off! I was like
But now that is done for, HOWEVER NEXT PIC!



Yes, that IS a small hole over there... Thankfully B-12 cleaned it all enough that I was able to find my culprit! I noticed a hissing sound and the source, this be it!

NOW, tommorrow I will clean it with more B-12, grind it with I don't know, 100 or 200 grit sandpaper to get a nice surface, and use JB-WELD on it and get over that... Should I use a metal screen there? My small finger fits below the hole, so I can efectively mold the compound. Any and all suggestions are recieved. If there is a better compound than JB Weld for that, Please do tell me, thanks!

I found there compounds
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...6?counter=14&filterByKeyWord=epoxy&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=515553_0_0_
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...Chem-3-oz-Inferno-metal-repair/_/N-25hw?itemIdentifier=30671&_requestid=1282414
Any idea which one would be better for the job? They are high heat that is peace of mind but im not sure about hardness...

 

Use traditional JB weld, not the fast setting kind...doesn't harden and stick as well.

 

Yeah, that is my primary concern, but WB Weld says it;s up to 600 degrees. I don't know how hot that area gets... And I dont want to mess her up... crap.

 

hello bumplover, what is your engine? would it be too much if we asked you to
post a step by step pictorial of how you did it? I would like to do it with mine
too, but Im not as mechanically adept like you are. You also have a very clean
engine. Very good work.

 

Engine is in my sig,
2.0 L 2000cc L4 FI DOHC motor -J20A-
I try to keep her clean, don't scrub at all but I buy every 3 months or so, high quality spray degreaser and try to get her as clean as posible!
Everything except the EGR tube, im willing to dismantle no prob.
What year it's your vehicle? Ill gadly help ya, it's NOT hard, it's just time consuming.

 

I have a 2001 GV with 2.5L AT V6 and another one which is a 2006 GV
2.0L AT I4. Do you think my 2006 2.0L engine is the same as yours?

 

I'm w/TM on using regular JB Weld. "Dam" up the backside w/a small piece of masking tape to keep the JB from sinking into and out the bottom of the hole. Get the area clean, grease free and roughed up like you mentioned.

 

The 2006 GV is different generation so I bet the engines are not the same.
My neightbor has a 2001 GV and it's V6 too...
Take a picture of your engine and upload it.
If it's the same, I'll gadly locate and photograph the components for you on his engine so you can clean it. It's not hard, it's just time consuming!

 

Well, may I butt in.......

I am not sure on the running temperature at this location.. like my learned friends let me suggest.. in order of ease, then sustainability...

• JB weld, is a metalized epoxy, holds well, workable, but will break down under intense heat (500f).
• Aluminum Welding - Aluminum Repair - Aluminum Brazing - AluminumRepair.com, aluminum rod weldable with a standard propane torch, if done correctly is a permanent fix....
• MIG, a permanent fix but requires specialized equipment.

I would try the JB first, if it fail, you know where to look....good prep is the key..... Philip

 

This is the aluminum rod welding in action.... How to Fill Gaps and Holes in Aluminum with Super Alloy 5

 

It was a tight spot so I used JBweld, not so sexy looking because it dripped all over the place but there is no longer an air escape...
But im puzzled! Although air escapes no longer and she Definitively feels better whenever I turn the AC in the past she was but now the RPMS don't go up as they should and JUST A BIT but she still shakes... WTF?!?!?!

 

I read a bit and seems my IAC valve is the source of that last bit!
Resistance went over the parameter by .3-.9 ohms - BAD THING
I cleaned it with hopes of it working better since when i took it out the magnet was moving(Read somewere if the magnet moves you might have salvation)
I used berryman B-12. Put it all back up and didn't see any improvement at all.
I might have discalibrated the pintle but doubt that was it because when ignition is ON the valve still didn't move at all. Ill have to buy a new one but haven't found one cheaper than $210 on autozone... I might cry for the prize

 

whenever you clean or replace components in a computer controlled vehicle, you should reset the system brain before checking performance...disconnect your battery cables for about 20 minutes to reset the computer

 

I wanted to make sure the valve died up well, the cables were disconnected for 3 hours.
I will take a ride now and see how she handles, after that I will adjust pintle lenght up to two times, if that doesn't work... Ill just painfully dish the cash out.