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Brakes locking up (and more) 2007 xL7

8.9K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  Donewrken  
#1 ·
My brakes lockin up have been one of many problems with this car! It hasnt helped that mechanics around here dont even wanta touch my car. I was told a wheel bearing first, had it replaced. Drove ok for a couple days before i found myself stranded on the hwy again not able to get the car to move at all. Lettin it sit for a couple hours to "cool off" got it goin down the road again. Then it drove fine for a couple days between incidents and took spells where it did it everytime i got in it. Finally, had a friend take it to a guy a couple towns over and he too gave the "i know nothing about these cars but i will try" speech but came back and said he was confident it was the master cylinder cuz it was full of fluid (which i thought was normal but...) he replaced it. Got in it to drive it and noticed the pedal had to be pushed almost to the floor to stop it but he said that was normal. The next day the first time i stopped the pedal went in like when i picked it up but since then, the pedal becomes tight and barely able to push it in at all the further i try to go. Which was a little over a week ago, and in the 5 times i have attempted to make it to town 10 miles up the road, i only made it twice and the car struggled even then.

Sooooo here i am again. After beggin and pleading with family and friends to help me figure this out, one thinks he can fix it by replacing the brake booster..... God willing, that will fix it so i can move down my list of other things i gotta figure out..... why it keeps stallin on me at idle...why i have to pump the gas and sumtimes pray really hard to even get it started at all....why i have to leave it running while i pump my gas to prevent sittin at the pump for 10 min tryin everything to restart it....why my front floor board floods....why my cargo area floods....why my passenger door opens sumtimes and others it takes 3 people gettin it open....why my steering wheel whines more than i do....why i hear metal clanking under my car at low speeds and bumps....and last but certainly not least replacing the timing chain becuz of the tensioners goin bad.... And ive yet to understand why i cant walk in auto zone or oreillys like other normal people and not hear " im sorry but u will have to go thru a dealership for ur parts" couldnt even get a friggin hose that would work.

I am at a loss being stuck with this car!!! And tryin to afford repairs on it, especially wHen the mechanics around here keep replacing the wrong parts has gotten to be very frustrating to say the least!!! This is the worst car i have ever even heard anyone owning!
 
#2 ·
Your issue is not with the car, but with the people that insist on throwing parts that are not required..

You either have to learn to diagnose the vehicle or get one that the morons at the local service can work on...

... Philip
 
#3 ·
With regards the brakes, there is a specification for the actuator rod between the master cylinder and the booster., if it is set too tight the fluid will not be released and the brakes will lock.

Replacing the booster will not fix, it requires adjustment, and probably a system bleed..

... Philip
 
#6 ·
With regards the brakes, there is a specification for the actuator rod between the master cylinder and the booster., if it is set too tight the fluid will not be released and the brakes will lock.

Replacing the booster will not fix, it requires adjustment, and probably a system bleed..

... Philip
this last guy did some sort of quik booster test on the side of the hwy during my last rescue. Whatever it was that he did, when he disconnected a hose (maybe) to the booster the brake pedal went from rock hard back to its normal squishy feel.
Pay attention....

,,,,, Philip
 
#5 ·
Trust me, i think after the last year of living with this car, im pretty sure its a combination of both the car and the area i live in. My notebook is at the house right now but last time we hooked it up to the machine it threw up i think 7 codes. Oh and yea im sorry, i forgot to tell ya that the check engine light is on and hasnt stayed off for more than a couple weeks between new problems. To be honest, ive put myself into the crazies tryin to research all my problems on this car. He explained a couple of the codes for me that day (which he was supposed to fix most of) but he blamed like 3 of them on the timing chain issues that i havent been able to afford yet. Ive just been tryin to keep it driveable lately for the sake of my children needs. I can reply back with the codes soon as i get back. I guess right now ive just been tryin to get the brake issue fixed. Im pretty much at the mercy of friends right now and this last guy did some sort of quik booster test on the side of the hwy during my last rescue. Whatever it was that he did, when he disconnected a hose (maybe) to the booster the brake pedal went from rock hard back to its normal squishy feel. I am sorry 4 the obvious lack of mechanical knowledge here! Ive never in all my 38 yrs had this many problems out of a car! Makes me wanta go bathe it in Holy Water!
 
#7 ·
Ok i think i have somebody here who will pay attention (every other man i read ur message to ignores me) and he wants me to ask you a few questions. He said that when it starts to lock up that u can push on the pedal really hard and it will release or i can let the car sit and cool off and it will release. Hes wantin to know if thats typical of being a problem with the actuator rod?
 
#8 ·
Slamming the brakes makes no sense to correct a tight actuator rod. It is something that is critical but commonly overlooked if the booster or master is replaced. Issue being if the booster diaphragm is pushing on the master when the brakes are not applied the vent port that lets fluid return to the resevior is closed and as the fluid gets hot it has nowhere to expand it applies your calipers which creates more heat which means more expansion more self application of your brakes. Hammering the brakes will worsen the problem because braking creates heat. The rod can be measured and adjusted it takes 45 seconds to do during the replacement of the master or booster. Before you pull yours off for adjustment check that your brake fluid is not overfull as this creates the same problem if the fluid is between the min and max don't touch it!
 
#9 ·
....why my steering wheel whines more than i do....
:clap:
:lol:

You get a 10 on that item.

Only a couple of nuts to remove & loosen a jam-nut, turn a bolt in a couple of threads,
re-tighten jam-nut put the two nuts back on and you are finished.
Search Youtube & I bet you will find one that will show you how to
adjust the vacuum booster/master cylinder.

Best of luck!

Don