[Suzukiuki]

It depends a lot on what the problem you are having is. It appears a 2010 has either a 2.4l 4 or a 3.2l 6. I have a 2.7l 6 so I am not familar with your engine. Is it getting access or can you get access but turning it is a problem?
Jim

Its absolutely an access issue. I can manage to get an arm up into the compartment from below the vehicle but the odd contortion of my wrist this requires makes it impossible to twist off the filter. There is very little clearance from below so using a long ratchet with a filter wrench is not possible.

The other approach I've tried is removal of the heat shield at the top of the engine. This is similarly fraught with difficulty because of clearance issues. The filter is blocked by a large heat pipe to the radiator and a support beam that mounts part of the engine and the aformentioned shield. Measuring I'd need at least a 20 inch ratchet and filter cap wrench to get at the filter without risking damage to the internals surrounding the filter.

Other approaches that didn't work are turning the wheels out (the wheel well has impact sensors mounted and is completely closed)

I am considering creating my own extra long strap wrench which will allow me to extract the old filter. Not sure how I'd get the new one in there, though.

Unfortunately for me, we have only one dealer nearby and they've screwed with us multiple times. In fact, I marked the filter with paint the last time we took it for a change and they tried to charge me for a fluid change and OEM filter without replacing it. They refunded my money after I raised hell but that was the last straw for me.

I can only surmise that we have never had the filter changed in the vehicle. Awful service experience with Suzuki

Thank you for the reply!

 

[Kootenanny]

I am considering creating my own extra long strap wrench which will allow me to extract the old filter. Not sure how I'd get the new one in there, though.

I have a strap wrench made from a strip of rubber belting screwed to a stick. I've had it for decades, works just fine (to adjust the size, I just take out one of the screws and re-insert it at the appropriate point).

However, in a tight space like the GV, I find a shorter strap wrench is better--you can get your hand up there with it, and swing it through a longer arc. You only need to get it started (and then, watch all the oil run down the side of the block...really, is it THAT hard to design a filter mount that points straight down?).

The filter will com out through the bottom, and the new one will go in the same way. My main problem is visibility, I don't like touching the clean (and freshly lubed) gasket to the dirty block, or anything else, and it can be hard to see well enough to hit the mounting nipple bang on.

I gotta say, this is one area my wife's Ford Focus has Suzuki beat nine ways to Sunday (as my dad used to say). Filter on the Focus points straight down, right near the front bottom of the engine, very easy access, relatively clean removal, and you can fill it with fresh oil before reinstalling.

 

[Shuckapeafarms]

Suzuki GV oil filter

I can do mine in 5 minutes...........you have to remove it and replace it from underneath the vehicle however, you can get your hand down through from the engine compartment to tighten the filter securely...........you shouldn't be using wrenches on it........hand tight as specified on the filter! I have never had one leak hand tight so long as you prelube the seal. If you turn the wheels to the far right you can see right in there. DO NOT attempt it on a hot engine because you will suffer the consequences............guaranteed! I have worked on vehicles that people got nuts with the oil filter wrench and had to use creativity to get the filter off because of some having limited accessiblity like the GV.........I wouldn't want to think about creativity with this one...........you may be there a while!!!

 

[Kootenanny]

...you shouldn't be using wrenches on it........hand tight as specified on the filter! I have never had one leak hand tight so long as you prelube the seal.

We're talking about using a wrench to get the filter off--yes, installation should be only hand-tight (3/4 turn once the gasket contacts, by the book--but I just go as tight as I can by hand, never a problem for over 3 decades I've been doing this).

BTW, though...this is always done with the engine hot, as that's when the oil is changed. Just be careful.

 

[JimD]

I change oil with the engine cold. I allow plenty of time for draining. The only benefit I can remember cited for changing hot is the oil drains better. I'm not sure that is very true with the synthetics I have in both cars but I just leave the drain plug out for a long time - I go do something else - and I think I've done a better job than the dealer or oil change place would. It's a lot less painful to work on a cold engine.

My favorite wrench is a cap wrench. I am not sure it will fit into the space you describe but that is where I start. For an oil filter, you shouldn't need more than a stubby ratchet.

Jim

 

[cpc_89]

oil filter wrench/socket sizes

I have read a few posts up that a genuine suzuki oil filter for a 09 model 2.4L fits a 68×14 flute filter wrench/socket.
Can anyone confirm ryco /other aftermarket filters are the same size/number of flutes. I'm also finding access to the filter on the 2.4 a bit tricky
Thanks

 

[*Kiwi]

Use a 3" plus 1.5" 3/8 extension to remove the filter with the cap wrench (or cam wrench) of the size you described. It's much easier to access than the other engines. I use the cap wrench to tighten also, 2/3 to 3/4 turn.
As for aftermarket filters, I have no idea as I only use OEM.

 

[TooFast]

I always change the oil myself on everything, except the Grand Vitara, like others have said, it's just too much trouble.

 

[Bludger]

on AUDM H27a, you can remove the filter from the top, just have to undo a few bolts that hold components in the way.


better than oil running down your arm from underneath.

 

[Bludger]

actually, only 2 10mm bolts holding circular black canister. push that out of the way and can access filter from the top.

that's my method.

after it's off, get down there and rag it all up. that way all the oil doesn't go down your arm.

 

[MrGMcD]

Definately a fun vehicle to change the oil on.
My first try with the Grand Vitara 2010 DDIS 1.9L F9Q Engine was a mission.

First of all the sump plug is at the front of the sump, which means using ramps wont empty the entire volume, I realised this too late. Usually sump plug is at rear so using ramps is no issue and drains everything.

Accessing the filter was performed laying on my back, feet out the front of the vehicle, right arm from behind the lower control arm up into its guts and loosened/removed the filter by hand as if performing vehicular breaststroke. Repeat in reverse with a 3/4 turn, or as tight as reasonable.

Overall it would have been not too bad had the ryco filter I got from super cheap been the correct one. The ryco shop book tells you to get a z608, however comparing to the original "suzuki brand" and online, you actually need a z690. (The z608 is used in other renault's with same engine; its 2/3 the size of the z690) Supercheap had none in stock, so off to repco where they tore a hole in my wallet. $43 Because oil had been drained for long enough I paid there and then just to get the job done.

However now the car needs to have ignition cranked two times for the engine to start up if its been sitting a while. Or maybe I have never noticed before. Maybe I dont hold the starter on long enough. Who knows. Only had for about 5000km. Not sure whether this is low pressure caused by average anti-drain in the filter or that the oil pump needs priming?
Any thoughts?

G

 

[bigclubs]

I have a 2008 GV and after owning a fun Sidekick without AC changing the oil filter was a PITA on the GV. I found as most posting on this issue the AC compressor and limited space, made changing the oil filter almost impossible.

Most shops tightened the filter to the point it will never come free using your hand. Most shop mechanics do not want the filter to come loose and cost them an engine, so they tighten the filter as much as possible.

I almost thought of cutting a hole in the wheel well, like on the old chevy blazers to get access to the filter, but I see there is a double wall and the frame is in the way, so this idea was not practicle.

What I found to make the job easier was purchasing a oil filter cup that fits the filter and a short (stuby) 3/8 rachet. I found a rachet that was only about 3 to 4 inches long, this with the cup gave me the enough leverage to break loose the filter and then spin it off by hand.

 

[reg_c]

However now the car needs to have ignition cranked two times for the engine to start up if its been sitting a while. Or maybe I have never noticed before. Maybe I dont hold the starter on long enough. Who knows. Only had for about 5000km. Not sure whether this is low pressure caused by average anti-drain in the filter or that the oil pump needs priming?
Any thoughts?
G

Oil Pump is a positive displacement pump, therefore doesn't require priming
also oil pressure has no bearing on vehicle start, vehicle will start with no oil

do you have a diesel or petrol?
diesels don't enjoy cold starts (until glow plug light goes out)
petrol can drain back if one-way valve in pump leaks internally, not really an issue


EDIT:
but to stay on thread, when servicing my car, I'm able to stick a suitably long pry bar down through the top and tap the rolled edge to loosen, then slide underneath and remove. Installation is from the bottom and only hand tight

 

[Andylewer]

Definately a fun vehicle to change the oil on.
My first try with the Grand Vitara 2010 DDIS 1.9L F9Q Engine was a mission.

Overall it would have been not too bad had the ryco filter I got from super cheap been the correct one. The ryco shop book tells you to get a z608, however comparing to the original "suzuki brand" and online, you actually need a z690. (The z608 is used in other renault's with same engine; its 2/3 the size of the z690)

I have been using the Z608 filter from Ryco for 100,000km and 10 oil changes without a drama. I find the smaller filter easier to get around all the piping etc. Seeing as its used on the F9Q i dont see any dramas.

But yes, as others have said a filter removal "cup" with the 3/8" drive on the end....much easier for the diesels atleast.

 

[MrGMcD]

Oil Pump is a positive displacement pump, therefore doesn't require priming
also oil pressure has no bearing on vehicle start, vehicle will start with no oil

do you have a diesel or petrol?
diesels don't enjoy cold starts (until glow plug light goes out)
petrol can drain back if one-way valve in pump leaks internally, not really an issue

EDIT:
but to stay on thread, when servicing my car, I'm able to stick a suitably long pry bar down through the top and tap the rolled edge to loosen, then slide underneath and remove. Installation is from the bottom and only hand tight

Good to know. Diesel, glowplug light is always off before cranking. Winter eh

 

[Mrbungle76]

Just did this..

Well, the oil change place stripped my oil pan. I will be doing my own oil changes now. I know this thread is old, but I figured I'd update it if anyone needs this info. I was worried about struggling to change the filter. I had some 2x8 boards that I cut into 10 inch pieces or so and pulled the front tires up on them for a little extra space. I don't have a jack i would trust underneath a car. I take the temp oil plug off and look up. Surprisingly, the filter was well within reach. If you lay with the front end slightly raised for extra space to move your arms, legs out of the front, slightly by the drivers side, there is a perfect angle to reach your arm up there and wrap your fingers around the top of the filter. It took me less than 5 minutes to change. I havnt read all the comments here, sorry if I am just repeating someones post. Just thought I'd share.

 

[bigclubs]

Yes the V6 are a bit tough to reach the filter, like I found, a filter cup and stuby 3/8 ratchet works great loosening up a filter the dealer tightens to the extreme. Here in the US most GV are gas engines, so the price of a filter and oil in the auto parts stores are sometimes the same or more expensive than taking it to the dealer. If the dealer strips the drain plug, they are responsible to repair the damage. Taking the vehicle to the same place multiple times helps when they try to say someone else #**# the drain plug.

 

[SuZulu]

I spoke to the dealer here in Canberra and he stated that the mechanic needs to update the computer monitoring database as the system allows for the amount of diesel that "weeps" into the sump.

 

[SuZulu]

First of all the sump plug is at the front of the sump, which means using ramps wont empty the entire volume, I realised this too late. G

Lucky my driveway is on a slope. Tonight I'll reverse then roll down to ramps in the morning.

The image in the manual shows the sump at side side or am I orientating myself wrong?

 

[SuZulu]

Were's the F plug for F9Q (GV 2010 diesel)

The plug is not on the traditional sump but on the front of the "oil screening" chamber.
Attaching a photo would be great. I have diagrams but can't find how to attach them here.