there are 2 fails
the 2 plastic parts on the tip of the shifter, see parts pages.
and the cable
the cable if not replaced a 120k will cause huge damage to expensive parts.

My clutch is sick what is wrong

 

i know this is a old thread, but its in line with what im unsure of.
mines a 1993 escudo four door.
and the clutch is all catchy and feels like its binding. so i want to remove the cable and lube or at least inspect it.
as im a new member, i have never seen the kick-fix pages as there no longer working. which is a shame they seem real handy.
so....
i was wondering if anyone has some infomation on removing the cable. any tips would be handy.
i dont have a service manual, if anyone has a copy, id be keen on that too.

so far, a great site, iv solved a few problems reading old threads. its just lots of the links dont work now so it makes it hard. i did read why they have gone and its a shame.

thanks!

 

Here is a diagram of your clutch cable and the way that it is routed. Part 16 in the diagram is at the clutch pedal in the car. The cable goes through the firewall toward the front of the car, in front of the driver's seat, then curves back to the tranny, on the side of the passenger seat, and connects as per the diagram below. Pay careful attention to any stress at the firewall, as the cable exerts about 600 pounds of pressure, from what I understand, and if it is binding, can actually damage the firewall at the grommet. If you are replacing the cable, make sure that it is the same kind. There are two types of cable, one with a locknut before the rubber housing near part 21 in the diagram, and one with a rubber stopper. You must get the same type that is on your car.

 

A cable is like $20-$30 bucks, just replace the damn thing before it blows your tranny. Even if your wrong, the thing is still old and needs to be replaced cause they stretch over time.

 

Or you break the clutch pedal like I did (and many others). Changing the cable is fairly easy and inexpensive.

 

thanks bex.

i was going to probably end up replacing it.

here there about $120.

 

$120? What about Internet order? And where are you?

 

i havnt looked too hard at the moment, as its the weekend.

im in new zealand.

bex, do you have a close up of how it comes off at the pedal. iv looked under there. but its hard to see if i new what it looked like i could probably do it by feel.

 

I found this thread (and many others too) while looking for info also... So like blacknzr1, I'll add to it since I'm having similar problems.

I've only driven the tracker 1-2 dozen times total (I've lost count).

While out doing stuff today, the tracker wouldn't start. I thought it was the clutch switch, so I adjusted it and it started, but then the pedal felt odd and it wouldn't shift right, which I quickly found was due to a broken pedal (see pic 3).

So, I took of the pedal, and the cable.

The cable is a bit sticky, moves freely when I slide it back and forth inside it's plastic tube, but I can see it's been repaired by the previous owner (see pic 1). I'm already ordering a new one, but...

I now have to try and determine if there was a previous problem that the PO experienced that caused the pedal to become partially broken, and the cable to be completely broken. Then PO fixed cable and never knew about pedal, and was able to function until completely breaking today???

Or if something is causing the clutch release lever not to move normally, which caused the pedal to fail when I last pressed the clutch pedal down?

Is the clutch release lever (see pic 2) something that I can move by hand by muscle? (roughly how many pounds of pressure is needed to move it by muscle where the cable would connect?)

What is the way to test it?

And what's the normal thing that's done about the pedal? Weld or buy new? (really though, I'm more concerned with finding out why the pedal failed so it don't happen again).

Thank you

 

blacknzr1, I'd take a pic of mine for you, but it's already off. There's a piece that just hooks through the end. You'll see easy enough when you get down in there good laying on the floor board.

I'd be surprised if you don't have a mailing service there to get shipment from the US. When I lived outside of the US, I used Transexpress. I got a free locker in FL. I could then buy items in the US, and have them shipped at domestic rates to my locker in FL, then the parcel would get forwarded to me overseas in 1-2 days for a per pound rate.

You may have to check around, but most countries have a parcel service like that for getting stuff from the US, and it'll end up cheaper than $120 when you order from rockauto and have it forwarded.

I orderd mine too quickly, and I forgot to check amazon too. They have it cheaper.

Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 093-0642 Clutch Cable - Import: Automotive

and ebay

Beck/Arnley 093-0642 Clutch Cable | eBay

 

Here is a diagram of what is at your feet. And make sure that the cable you get has the proper attachment at the tranny - you most probably have the rubber stopper, and not the lock nut:

 

Here is the Rockauto catalog:
1996 SUZUKI SIDEKICK Clutch Cable
I had to order from the US as well, and it still came out way less than $120 (US) with the postage.

 

Is there anything that should be checked / tested that causes clutch pedal failure other than a bad/old cable?

 

Check the actual welds of the clutch pedal itself. Not uncommon for these to fail - look under the dash at all the weld points there.

Regarding the grounds, there is another post about this during the past couple of days, as well, where Rhino advised that if the ground (earth) strap is not good, the car will have a tendency to ground through the clutch cable. I believe that the strap he is talking about goes from the battery negative to the big lug at the starter. (another main ground is from battery to car body just by the battery itself). You can check these to make sure the connections are clean and good. Rhino might have more info.
Look here:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/49278-rpm-problem.html

 

thanks for all the replys!
interesting the link you gave bex. it says a bad earth will cause a new cable to fail. i do wonder about mine. not that i think its causing clutch problems for me. (yet) but iv been changing the stereo and there is some wierd things going on.

interesting the bit that likes to strip too. i will try to get a look of that.


i think you have done all you can stiggy. check the spline bex shows. fix pedal. lube and make sure everything is moving free then install your cable. maybe check your earth strap too.

 

i got my cable out, lubed it and half way back in, then it got dark. im not hopefull of a result. but a learning experience anyway. i will see how it feels then get a new one if no change.
i thought i new where the earth strap is, but im not sure now.
any hints?

 

I already did check the weld at the pedal, and pulled it out (see pic).

I was trying to figure out what caused it to break at the weld (just "normal" fatigue seems odd?).

I already cleaned the ground to the car body when I did my egr valve cleaning last week.

Also, there's no way to determine if PO's mechanic put gl5 in instead of gl4 is there? I'm thinking of draining and filling just to make sure.

 

A binding clutch cable puts tremendous amount of pressure on the pedal, welds, firewall, etc.
GL5 usually contains more sulphur, so has a stronger smell to it. However, if you are not sure, it is best to change the tranny fluid. If you have never done this, then it probably needs to be done anyway.

 

thanks again!

 

Need picture

I welded my clutch pedal (1st time welding ever), put it back in (hopefully didn't cut or break any wires in the process), and now I'm stuck as to how the clutch cable goes.

The diagram from the kick fix site shows #20, #17, and #19, all which were not on mine. Mine has been brazed together by PO, and put on with a double nut at very end.

The diagram looks like a washer, spring, and some kind of special single nut at end.

Can somebody please post a picture or two of theirs so I can see how it should be originally. Mostly I'd like to see a pic of the special looking nut at the end. Mine was brazed to a standard (non-metric) stud, with a washer and double nut on the end.

BTW, I really really hope the pedal never breaks again... putting it back in is a pain!

Thanks.

 

that sounds about right. the round thing with the hole goes in the arm coming from gear box. then on the very end theres the big nut first what locates on the round thing in the arm. (as in you wind it in then you may need to turn it a little more to seat on the round thing) then the small nut goes on last as a locking nut.

hope that helps!
i dont spose you know what all the fuses are for?

 

So I guessed correct? In addition to the special nut, there is a spring and a washer before the stud part passes through the round piece in the arm?

There's no nut before the round piece in the arm is there?

Since I do NOT have the original parts, I am definitely going to need a picture so I know what to buy.

Anybody know if regular auto parts stores carry this "clutch cable nut"? Or is this a dealership part?

 

yes that sounds right. my washer and spring didnt come off. or fall off when it was out. so i just guessed yours was still on.

you mean you need the nut that locates on the pin in the arm?
i would say any nut that locates and the thread is correct to screw on.

 

Maybe this diagram helps:

 

I saw that in my FSM, but my tracker uses the rubber stopper cable, plus the diagram does not show the spring nor washer.

The other local Chevy dealer at least has the nut (the Suzuki dealer is too far). The nuts are discontinued (like everything else at the Chevy dealer), but stock exists. GM # 96051299 $1.89 + tax.

and the spring and washer are GM # 96057860 and 11609328.

I still need to tweak my pedal height, and free play. I measured the arm movement at 1" putting the clutch pedal to the floor.

The pedal feels much "springy-er". I don't like the feel now compared to before.

 

with mine the squeak and odd feeling seems to be in the trans. so i dout i will go any further. i will wait for it to fail. as im not sure about removing the trans just to do that.

 

I didn't look good when I was trying to figure the problem out. I believe the plate and spring was hooked up to the pedal, and that I hooked it back up correctly.

The way mine is now, is that the spring seems to work to pull the pedal up, and when the pedal is pushed down past half way, the spring goes past a pivot point and works to pull the pedal towards the floor.

Plus the free play that was nicely there before, now feels "springy", and I no longer clearly feel a point between free play and resistance. I think it's due to the resistance of the pedal spring combined with a smoother new cable (less resistance).