[Max]

Timing chain set-up was OK (or correcrted), but no compression.

On to bent valves it appears. Let's hope the piston tops and cylinder bores are still in good shape.

Two adjacent cylinders (2&3 in this case) with zero compression often indicates a blown head gasket. Something to inspect when you pop the head off.

 

[tjkashin]

Well, I have ordered a reman head and a complete head/exhaust/intake gasket set, so blown head gasket wouldn't be a big deal since it will be replaced anyways. And so the saga continues......

 

[Max]

I'd yank the head and inspect before going any further.

Who knows! Maybe it's a head gasket only prob (or worse yet) you'll find block / piston issues). Either way, you won't have to have a re-worked head. Not inspecting further to find the FULL extent of damage may be a costly mistake, IMO.

 

[tjkashin]

Well, I scratched the ordering of a reman and found a local machine shop, only 2 miles away that will do it for $225 + parts and can have it done in a day. I just have to wait until this Saturday to take it down and take it in.

On another note, I will snap a picture of the replacement guide that I got from Chevy. The new one is much more durable and looks to be a much better design.

I wouldn't scratch getting a 99+ Tracker. This problem that I had is like anything else, a mechanical problem that just happened from worn out parts. I have been nothing but happy with the Tracker and would recommend one to anyone interested. I bought mine because my mom has a 1991 2 door that has never had anything done to it besides oil changes, tires, brakes and other preventative maintenance (even has the same clutch). It's currently what I drive 100 miles a day round trip until I get mine repaired.

 

[tjkashin]

Ok, I have pulled the head, and found 3 or 4 bent valves. No piston damage that I can see, they look good, just a bit dirty. I'll get a picture up here of the block for ya cj!. I'm taking the head in to the shop in the morning, they should have it back to me by Wednesday and it should run me about $300 or so. Another $60 for the gasket set and hopefully I'll be up and running by the weekend. Cross your fingers!!!

 

[tjkashin]

There are some images I took, I will try and get a measurment out for you but I don't have anything besides a standard tape measure. I'll bring something a bit smaller and more precise home from work this week. As you can see from the picture, there really isn't alot to work with as far as increasing the bore. There is some gunk that fell down into the cylinders as I was removing the head. I will clean this out shop vac style before reassembly. I checked the cylinders, there is no scarring or damage that I can see or feel. All looks good so far.

 

[tjkashin]

Update from the machine shop: 4 bent valves, 2 intake 2 exhaust. Valve guides show signs of wear but not excessive. (107,000 miles on her, so I would expect some wear) Total quote for repair $553. Head gasket set $149 more. I'm in it up to my neck already, might as well get it finished. So after about $1500 +/- a few bucks, I should have another 100k miles or more to look forward to. I'll keep everyone posted, should have the head back on Thursday and put back together on Saturday.


Here is some info from AllData that might offer the information you need until I physically get the head back and measure the valves for ya.

Specifications - Cylinder Bore Specifications
Notes Cylinder Bore Diameter STD #1
Note: Red Marking 3.3075-3.3078 in
STD #2
Note: Blue Marking 3.3071-3.3074 in
Maximum 3.3090 in
Allowance for Honing 0.008 in
Out-of-Round 0.0039 in
Note: Maximum
Taper 0.0039 in
Note: Maximum
Piston To Cylinder Bore Clearance 0.0008-0.0015 in

Cylinder Head Valve Specifications:
Margin(Intake) STD 0.039 in
MIN 0.024 in
Margin(Exhaust) STD 0.047 in
MIN 0.028 in
Valve Head Radial Runout(MAX) 0.003 in
Head Angles For Refinishing Area Above Seat Contact Surface 15 deg
Area Below Seat Contact Surface(Exhaust Only) 60 deg
Face Contact Surface 45 deg
Seat Contact Surface 45 deg
Stem Outside Diameter Exhaust 0.2339-0.2344 in
Intake 0.2348-0.2354 in
Stem To Guide Clearance Exhaust Valve (STD) 0.0018-0.0028 in
Exhaust Valve (MAX) 0.0035 in
Intake Valve(STD) 0.0008-0.0018 in
Intake Valve(MAX) 0.0027 in

 

[cj!]

I sent an email to LA Sleeve with the pics of the block and what I wanted to do and I just got a reply.

"We haven't made a performance sleeve for the Suzuki yet but it looks possible. Looking at the picture you emailed, it seems to me like it would be simular to the Honda's we make sleeves for. We would make the flange bigger than the waterjacket. Usually 1.500" down on the flange. Then, the outer diameter would taper down below that. It would press on that area of the sleeve. Depending on what aluminum is left between each bore is what determines your press fit. The average press fit is .001 to .002. Let me know if you've any other questions."


So it comes down to how much material there is to play with.

 

[tjkashin]

RUNS LIKE IT'S BRAND NEW!!!!!

Took me about 8 hours from start to finish to get it done. Couldn't wait to turn the key, but I took my time and wanted to make sure I had everything right. I got to the point of starting, she started right up and then she wouldn't idle. So, I pulled the plugs, all good. I did a compression check, just to make sure, and it was all good. I checked all the vacuum lines, they were good. Checked the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors, AHH-HAA!! I found that one of the injectors wasn't seated correctly in the fuel rail. Took the fuel rail off, cleaned all the grommets and such, reseated the injectors, put it back on and VOILA!!! It runs like the day I bought it!!!

Thanks for all your help, everyone!!!

Tim K.
Shade Tree Mechanic Extroidinaire!!!!

 

[tjkashin]

Tensioners, sprockets, chains, head gasket, front main seal, CPS, plugs, coil packs and various other gaskets as well. LOL

Is there a certification for the 2.0L I can get??? haha

Goodnight and thanks for all the fish!!!!

Tim

 

[willh98]

1999 Tracker Timing Chain

I just had a similar problem happen at 107,000 miles on a 1999 Tracker with the 2.0 engine. I'm curious about:
1) Where did you find the replacement parts?
2) If you don't mind, what did they cost you?
3) Did you ever get the chain guide?

Will Hanson
willh@earthlink.net

 

[tjkashin]

Sorry to hear that you have that issue. When it was all said and done, the issue was actually due to oil leaking from the side of the timing chain cover.

1) I got all the parts I needed from a local parts store, I did have to go to the dealer to replace the gears and the guide tho. I mean a real parts store too, not autozone or pep boys.


Cam Sprockets - $50 each at Chevrolet dealer
Upper Guide - $22 at Chevrolet Dealer
Upper Tensioner - $111 at Chevrolet dealer
Lower Fixed Guide - $18 Parts City
Lower Adjustable Guide - $42 Parts City
Lower Tensioner - $44 Parts City
Upper Chain - $38 Parts City
Lower Chain - $46 Parts City



2) The parts themselves were relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things. The 2 gears were $50 each, the guide was $23 and the remaining parts were around $150 (Chains, guides, tensioners). I had to also have the head reworked due to 2 bent valves, that cost me $780 which included the gasket set as well. I was into this job for around $1100 myself, whereas a mechanic quoted me over $4000.





3) I did get the chain guide, it just had to be ordered through the dealership. If you look through the links, I beleive that I posted a link to a place that sells a complete kit for the 2.0 tracker motor. They were a bit cheaper through that site but I chose to go with more quality parts. 1.8 J18A 2.0 J20A DOHC Timing Chain Kit (GEO - Suzuki) Aerio, Esteem, Sidekick Sport, Tracker, Vitara

Hope this helps, feel free to contact me about any further questions as I had to undertake this twice now.

Tim Kashin
tjkashin@kashin.org

 

[willh98]

1999 Tracker Timing Chain, etc.

Thanks for the info, it'll really help.
I had the Tracker at the Chevy dealer and they wanted $900 for parts and $1200 for labor. They inspected and found the crank to cam timing chain broken and the guides damaged, as well as the sprocket gears. Also, during the inspection they somehow managed to perform a compression test and found all 4 cylinders had good compression, so looks like no bent valves in this one. Interestingly, the engine hasn't been using oil, but when the problem happened we checked the oil and found it to be 3 quarts low. That can't be good. Probably has the timing cover leak, but we check the oil frequently and hadn't known it to ever be that low.
Towing so far: $60 to the dealer, $80 back to my house.
Dealer inspection and compression test: $142.50
So I'm in to it $282.50. Found the following link
eBay Motors: 99-03 GEO TRACKER 2.0L DOHC 16V TIMING CHAIN KIT J20A (item 200218685171 end time May-23-08 10:02:50 PDT)
It includes:
1 Timing Chain (idler to cams)
1 Timing Chain (crankshaft to idler)
1 Tensioner upper (for camshaft chain)
1 Tensioner lower (for crank to idler chain)
1 Guide Rail upper (for cam chain)
1 Guide Rail curved (right side idler chain)
1 Guide Gail straight (left side - straight)

Looks like I'll need to get the sprocket gears from the Chevy dealer.
Have you found a good way, without dropping the oil pan to get any fragments out of the pan?

In the past on this Tracker, we've replaced the driver side outside door handle, as it cracked in a freak ice storm in Atlanta. We used a Vitara part and it fit perfectly. We replaced the radiator for $160 about 2 years ago. We also replaced the fuel filter near the gas tank and the Oxygen sensor. The serpentine belt tensioner was replaced last year. My son tried to open the front part of the top while on the highway and the wind caught it and some screws came out and a plastic bracket broke. I was able to get the parts, including the screws through the Chevy dealer, pretty unbelievable.
Other than that, normal maintenance is all we've done. We're going to fix this timing chain problem and replace the front brake rotors, as they've warped. This has been one of the most reliable vehicles we've ever had and was getting 22-25 mpg in combined city and highway driving. We use it as a spare vehicle and it has come in handy many times. We have some mountain property in Alabama, and besides our 2002 Chevy Avalanche 4X4, this is the only other vehicle we have that can make it up the rugged unpaved, rutted, rocky roads there. So, I'm inclined to fix it up and keep it. No good reason to get rid of it. It's very cheap to insure, too. I have the two volume service manuals, too. I'm thinking about replacing the entire soft top, as it's getting a bit worn and the plastic windows are foggy and the zipper rear window is starting to separate.

Will H.

 

[L.Turner]

Please welcome a newcomer to this forum.

I found this thread via Google Search because I'm about to replace the Timing Chains and Water Pump on my own 1999 Chevy Tracker 2.0. I really appreciate all the fine details and follow-up that has been provided in this thread.

Among the things that really help are those photos provided. Thanks a bunch! I've tried ordering a Repair Manual for this car and, at this point, I can't find one through the local parts stores.

I see one of the respondents is also acquainted with the Atlanta, GA area. I'm living in the NW area in Marietta.

First, the car now has 138,000 miles on it. I bought it last summer and have really, really enjoyed driving this car! It's incredibly clean. Some guys I work with couldn't believe it wasn't a new car. The engine is clean as a whistle as well as the inside/outside of the vehicle body.

Now to get down to the nitty gritty on this issues I'm having.

1. Since last August (2007) I've been dealing with a Cam Position Sensor that would foul out when it got too hot. I've had to raise the hood between short trips to allow the heat to escape. In situations where I needed a fast cool down, I could pour some water over it and be off and running immediately. Since we've had a fairly cool winter, this wasn't as much of an issue as it's become since the weather is now warming up. So, on Friday, May 16th, I replaced this sensor with a new one. From Friday to Monday, the car ran like a champ. No raising the hood/pouring water over it. It just did splendidly!

2. But, toward the evening of Monday, the engine started misfiring. At first, it just didn't want to accelerate from a stop very well. I thought that maybe the Cam Sensor wasn't adjusted properly, so, I slightly adjusted the Cam Sensor and, for the next couple of hours, it would take off like a jack rabbit. Ran like a new car!

3. Then, without warning, it started misfiring again. The Service Engine light came on and I was able to get it up to AutoZone where they did a Fault Code check and got the code that indicates that Cylinder #1 was misfiring. Among the causes was sparkplugs.

So, taking the cheapest way out, I bought all new plugs and put them in. Once done, the car started right up again and ran as smooth as could be. I drove it for a 30-mile round trip and had no problems along the way. The Service Engine light even went off.

Now, we come to Tuesday. At the very first the car ran just fine. But, as it warmed up, the misfiring returned. Another trip to AutoZone and, with the Service Engine light on again, the same Fault Code came up.

I got the car home and left it alone overnight. On Wednesday afternoon, I rechecked the sparkplugs and the ignition coils, and everything seemed to be fine. I started it right up and it ran smooth until it warmed up to operating temperature again. At that point, the misfiring returned.

Now, knowing that the old Cam Sensor worked just fine as long as the sensor wasn't too hot, I put it back in and that didn't make any difference re: the misfiring.

So, we now come to my question as to what could be the problem.

First of all, I've read on another forum that these engines do require the replacement of the timing chains and related parts at around the 110,000 mile point. I've certainly exceeded that. So, with that in mind, I've gone ahead and ordered the parts to replace the chains, water pump, etc as needed.

BUT, does this situation actually sound like a timing chain problem? (Whether it does or not, I'll go ahead with this as it definitely would be beneficial to do it regardless.)

With the experiences of the people on this forum, maybe there's something else I should consider as well. I'm quite mechanically capable and do anything on the cars I can do myself and have for many years. I'm just not familiar with this particular car and specific symptoms to look for.

Thanks for taking the time to read this. I hope I've been thorough enough but not too wordy.

I'll be glad to provide some photos, too.

 

[Max]

Sounds like a spark plug coil pack is breaking down. Not uncommon. The fault code will ID which cylinder for you. They ain't cheap though. $100 ish.

And welcome aboard!

 

[L.Turner]

Sounds like a spark plug coil pack is breaking down. Not uncommon. The fault code will ID which cylinder for you. They ain't cheap though. $100 ish.

And welcome aboard!

Yes, that was another item that showed up on the list. $85 plus tax here. Ouch!

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep you all posted on the outcome.

 

[L.Turner]

OK, I'm in need of some assurance here.

I was able to locate a Hayne's Manual for this car late Sunday afternoon. Since then, I've disassembled the items as per the manual...and then some.

I say, 'and then some' because, once I got to the crankshaft pulley bolt, I ran into a problem. At that point, I removed the radiator from the car hoping that my air drive impact wrench would work to get this bolt loose. But, there still wasn't enough room and, since my car has A/C, the A/C cooling coil is still in the way.

At this point, I made a trip up to the tool store and picked up a chained pipe wrench. Using the photo from the manual, I've placed the pipe wrench onto the pulley and I have my own 1/2 inch drive torque bar with a high impact 19mm socket on the head of the bolt. BUT, that bolt STILL won't budge!

So, before I go any further...and possibly break the head off that bolt, can someone please tell me for sure if this bolt is Right or Left Threaded? Per my previous experience, often enough, a crankshaft bolt will loosen in the same direction that the engine turns. If that holds true here, then this bolt should be Left Threaded. BUT, that's not what this manual's image indicates.

I realize that today is Memorial Day here in the USA, and, would like to say a big "THANK YOU" to all our Veterans of the USA Military! Your service is and has been greatly appreciated!

So, knowing that many of you have better things to do today than sit at a computer and lend some advice to a forum member, I'll be very patiently awaiting any response at all.

(BTW, I did a search for 'crankshaft bolt' and nothing came up that indicated an answer to my inquiry.)

Cheers!

PS. I'm including a thumbnail view of what I've got connected. Just click the thumbnail for a larger view.

 

[Suzuki Thrall]

I had a quick glance at the official Suzuki J20 manual, but no mention of lefthand thread - just 108.5 ft.lbs. Sorry no more info.

Thrall

 

[L.Turner]

I had a quick glance at the official Suzuki J20 manual, but no mention of lefthand thread - just 108.5 ft.lbs. Sorry no more info.

Thrall

Thanks for the reply.

I've been out looking for an adequate impact tool that has a 1/2 inch drive and will pull the torque needed to get this bolt loose. There is only a 7-inch clearance between the head of that bolt and the A/C condenser coil. I really have no intention of pulling out the cooling coil for this. So, if an impact wrench can hit above that 108.5 ft. lbs., it should do the job, right?

Talk about exasperation....the car has now been sitting there for two days due to not being able to get this bolt loose.

 

[Max]

I'm 90% sure it's a right hand bolt as well LT. But I'm tellin' ya'...they are a real PITA to remove. An impact gun has been the ONLY way I could get out some of them. I even had to go out and get a 3/4" drive impact to get the pulley bolt out of a Honda I worked on. Also a cheapo 1/2" drive may not handle the action here. A Snap-On (or like) new / quality 1/2" should do it though.

To get the needed clearance...can you un-bolt / move the A/C condenser (keeping the freon lines intact / sealed up) and gain the extra clearance for an impact gun?