Been a while since Ive been on here. Bog, JTgh, kick-fix, how many times have you changed your username?

 

You missed out on Autotune, Fixkick and OAF.....

 

The caliper square ring (O ring) is stuck to the caliper/piston, piston is spring loading and not adjusting to the pad/disk clearance.... Philip

 

I had this problem once, and it was a bad flexible brake line, The rubber one that connects to the caliper.

 

Thanks everyone Ill try messing with it again today.

I haven't been here THAT long lol

 

just pushed the piston out to the max and pushed it back in to break the bond of the square seal and that didnt work. If I pinch off the rubber brake line, even right at the caliper, it fixes the problem. As soon as you release the clamp the pedal drops.

 

Alright Ive had this 92 tracker 2 door in the shop for way too long figuring out the brakes. I put 2 new calipers and a master cylinder on it and It is completely bled out but the pedal is still mushy.
use a vacuum bleeder , best cheap,
Use pressure bleed. best of best .
never gravity ever.
if system is not too full of air then 2man can work, must ppl fail this.
for all the reasons. (long list)


The problem lies in the drivers side front caliper. When you push the pedal down the pads press down like normal but when you let off the pedal the piston in the caliper is sucked back in way too far (1/16th) and there is an extreme amount of travel lost for the next time. If I block off that caliper the pedal is high and hard.
your over working the problem, you failed to bleed it right.
but that AIR IS SPRING, you just proved it , but you know its full of air, the new MC is spongy and is YELLING, FULL OF AIR DUDE !

The other caliper doesn't do this.it only pulls back just enough to let the rotor turn free. The hose isn't abnormally expanding and there is no air in the line.

This is starting to stump me, what could cause this and has anyone had the same issue?

you opened the system , too far, and as such you need to work 10x harder to purge it. why, because(guessing) you dont have good tools ,am i right?
did you bench bleed the MC first? way bad, if not.
your system has max air. (it will be everywhere)

to get it out only takes using a vacuum tool or power pressure bleeding.
any other way will waste 1 gallon of DOT4
and lots of cussing. (yes, i did that in the dark ages, no need today.)

bleed mc as the new mc paper with said, bench bleed.
then with a mityvac, suck a pint of fluid to left rear.
then more at RF the more at LF.
the repeat 1 more time.
then do the 2man.
a this point the 2 man is only getting out tiny air. see?

when using the tityvac, it will show lots of air, that is the valve leaking
ingore it..totally or buy speed bleeders and up grade car.
then after sucking lots of fluid true (up to 1 qt)
then the 2man start doing correctly !!
and if you see air, its real. and do keep bleeding until all 2man air is gone.
there is no other way .
cept magic, power bleeder.

do this before the job.
bleed-j.html


too far.
when doing annual brake purges this is easy, you can use any way.
but when you do major updates, not just 1 wheel cylinder or 1 caliper , you will need stronger tatics.

here is a trick to use, that is for lets say replacing slaves.

crack the line with proper brake box or A/C style wrench ,never a open spanner. slotted HEX !
at the store they sell rubber stoppers for this. (pep boys, left/ rear /store)
off the fitting slide the fitting back and slam on the rubber nipple.
you just saved a ton of bleeding.


not bleeding the MC
asks for
the horrible task of sucking all the air the the left rear slave.
and in the process filling the system with more air, HORRIBLE !!!!

you may save th eday by bleeding MC on car now. do you know how to do that.?
there is a side bleeder there , on suz. just a screw>
and do that and then crack each line at MC and bleed them for air free bleeds, into a towel, to no kill paint. below
see?, bench bleed , reduces the on car MC bleeding saving paint and frustrations.

im sure some things i said , you know, but i tried to do coverage in 1 post.

back welding..

 

The flexible brake lines should never be pinched or creased(bent too far), this breaks down the inside wall..... Philip

 

I got it. Thanks guys. This thing just got in my head and made me think there were problems. I took it for a test drive and perfect.

Bog, I did bench bleed, I did mityvac, I did 2man. Everything was right just that I thought the pedal felt the same as before the MC replacement but really it was 3 in taller than before. I work by myself so I couldn't feel that untill I busted a rear line.

 

What was the final solution... do not leave us in suspense... Philip

 

Great:
there are like 1000 forums with 1million hits , cant bleed brakes
due to users , who have never done it and have no idea just how hard it is to get
out max air. even worse, they Gravity BULL bleed. what a joke. "physics fail"
fluid goes down (gravity) air floats up, = fail.

in the 60s. (no fancy tools) we'd go the circle, 3 times to get , 2 man.
and priming a MC is SOP, since dark ages. why make life hard.? PRIME THE MC I SAY to viewers !
and we knew the feeling of air in the system. (a spring)

i never pinch rubber lines, unless, that is the procedure, taking them out for trash.
i just pinched 2 yesterday and first off last on so i didnt want to pinch them going on.
I use those cool rubber caps. really is nice with them.

 

i forgot to add there is book that shows how to bleed brakes when you mess up
and forget to bleed the MC.
IIRC , you do it backwards. (i have so many books i cant remember what one)

MC, to rear, then go normal. this un-does the mess up some.
and consider the dual circuits, if one is ok. then beat op on the bad side.
in your case the fronts.