1.3L engine swap - manual to automatic? Help pls.

Well it's done, in, hope I never see it again.

nah it wasn't THAT bad. My observations:

There is a spacer behind the flywheel on the auto trans that pops off with a screwdriver. It will not work without it.

There are some wiring plugs on the auto that are different from the manual (makes sense). Since the harnesses and the transmissions stay on the car it doesn't matter. For the record there were 21 plugs on both cars, 4 vacuum lines, and the two fuels.

The Haynes manual says you don't have to disconnect the trans to get the engine out. You do, not pull it completely but pull most mount bolts and slide it back.

It also doesn't even mention disconnecting the PS pump. I recommend pulling the entire bracket that holds the PS pump & a/c compessor (4 bolts), leaving them both hooked up but "set aside".

The one part (other than the flywheel/spacer) that needed changed was the steel pipe, a coolant return, that runs from the back of the transmission to the back of the water pump under the intake manifold. It is bent a little differently on the trans end. One #10 screw and it pops out. Pay particular attention when re-installing it, I did not seat it properly and smashed/pinched the o-ring, it added 3 hours onto the end of my job.

That was the only thing. The engine is in and looks like it was never touched.

Test-driving it I can see why I didn't buy the automatic - dog off the line, and no fun whatsoever. When cruising it does ok though. The only reason I'd do this is to put the engine from an auto into a manual, should be a snap.

One additional comment: The last time I changed an engine was a 75 Cutlass. More vacuum lines, but only a few wires. Even though I knew there'd be more wiring on a modern computer controlled car I had no idea!! I don't even want to THINK about changing an engine in a more expensive car.

Pete