Suzuki Forums banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm Rick from South Queensland, Australia.

I have a 2001 XL-7 that's done about 80 000 Kms.

The original Bridgestone H/T Duelers only did 30,000 kms, as did the next set. I'm now running Dunlop Grandtrek A/Ts and they still have plenty of tread.

My battery just died, and I'm looking at putting in a dual-battery set up. Does anybody make one that fits onder the bonnet?

If I put a gauge in the dash to tell me if the battery is low, do I need a volt meter or an amp meter, and what is the differece?

I want to run extra lights, and a fridge in the back. Will a "Jump-start" pack that lets me start the car with a flat bettery do the same thing? It is a cheaper option and I don't have to rewire the car to do it.

Let me know what you think?

See you
Rick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Originally posted by Crafty@Dec 31 2004, 02:48 PM
Hi, I'm Rick from South Queensland, Australia.

I have a 2001 XL-7 that's done about 80 000 Kms.

The original Bridgestone H/T Duelers only did 30,000 kms, as did the next set.  I'm now running Dunlop Grandtrek A/Ts and they still have plenty of tread.

My battery just died, and I'm looking at putting in a dual-battery set up.  Does anybody make one that fits onder the bonnet?

If I put a gauge in the dash to tell me if the battery is low, do I need a volt meter or an amp meter, and what is the differece?

I want to run extra lights, and a fridge in the back.  Will a "Jump-start" pack that lets me start the car with a flat bettery do the same thing?  It is a cheaper option and I don't have to rewire the car to do it.

Let me know what you think?

See you
Rick.

IF YOU WANT TO KEEP AN EYE ON THE BATTERY, A VOLTAGE GUAGE WOULD TELL YOU IF IT'S DROPPING. A NORMAL BATTERY SHOULD OPERATE BETWEEN 13 AND 14 VOLTS. YOUR ALLTENATOR CHARGES THE BATTERY WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING; AFTER THE INITIAL DRAIN ON THE BATTERY WHICH STARTS THE CAR. ODDS ARE YOU'D WANT TO LOOK AT RUNNING ANOTHER POWER LEAD OFF THE ALLTENATOR OR THROUGH THE FUSE BOX ETC. SO IT HAS SOME SORT OF FUSE PROTECTION. CAR ALARMS ARE GENERALLY RUN IN THIS MANNER. THE FUSE BOX IS PROBABLY TRICKY FOR RUNNING ADDITIONAL WIRES SO I'D LOOK AT RUNNING THE CABLE DIRECTLY AND PUTTING AN INLINE FUSE. THEN YOUR AMPERAGE GUAGE WOULD COME IN HANDY I BELIEVE WHERE YOU'D WATCH TO SEE THAT YOU HAVE A BIG ENOUGH ALLTENATOR TO HANDLE THE LOAD YOUR TRYING TO RUN OFF IT. FOR EXAMPLE AN OLD PICKUP TRUCK I USED TO OWN RAN OFF A 60 AMP ALLTENATOR. GENERALLY SPEAKING THERE IS PROBABLY AMPERAGE TO SPARE ON YOUR FACTORY SETUP, BUT IF YOU ARE THINKING OF SOMETHING REALLY BIG, LIKE A SYSTEM WITH SEVERAL SUBWOOFERS ETC. THAN YOU'D WANT TO LOOK AT YOUR AMPERAGE. IF YOU ARE HAVING TO REPLACE THE BATTERY OFTEN YOU LIKELY HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM, IF ITS ROUTINE REPLACEMENT THAN EITHER A MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY OR A REGULAR ONE WILL DO. THE REGULAR ONE'S ALLOW YOU TO CHECK THE WATER LEVEL IN EACH BATTERY CELL. A LEADING FAILURE OF YOUR BATTERY IS LOW ACID IN THESE CELLS. YOU MIGHT RUN THE LEAD WIRE RIGHT OFF THE BATTERY POST ON THE POSITIVE SIDE, JUST DON'T LEAVE IT ON OR IT WILL DRAIN THE BATTERY. ACTUALLY NOW THAT I THINK OF IT; TO HOOK UP A FRIDGE EVEN YOUR STARTER PACK WON'T DO THE TRICK UNLESS YOU RECHARGE IT WITH A GENERATOR OF SOME SORT. FUNNY THING, I USED TO DRIVE SEMI'S, AND OCCASIONALLY THEY'D INSTALL A FRIG, I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE SETUP, JUST THAT A TRUCK NORMALLY RUNS OFF ABOUT SIX OR MORE BATTERIES. HOPE THIS HELPS.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top