I swear I used to have an account here but I just registered this name again.
Due to the apperent lack of interest at zukiworld, I'm moving my tread here to see if you guys can give some advice or at least get a kick out of the build.
The car:
1996 Suzuki X-90
The build:
2002 Tracker H25A v6 swap
1998 Sidekick front diff (searching for 4:30 gears if anyone has them)
2002 Tracker hub flanges (for AWD)
2008 Grand Vitara 5-speed manual trans
2008 Grand Vitara T-case (single mode with center diff) (for AWD)
199x Honda v6 ECU (OBD2, speed density, no MAF)
AEM FIC piggy back (boost management)
650cc Injectors (unknown what fits H25A rails yet)
2x Garrett T25 turbos (twin set from Nissan 300z)
I'll be making the car full time AWD using what Suzuki calls a "singlemode" transfercase. It doesn't have a shifter and has a center diff. The H25A intake bolts on backwards so I can ditch that large pipe with the throttle body on it and use twin throttle bodies (from Hyundai Excel). I haven't decided if I'm going cheap and making log-style manifolds from the old H25A manis or if I'm going to make shorty tube style manifolds. I need the engine in the car first to see how things lay out.
I own an '02 XR2 Tracker that I bought with a blown engine. I put a junkyard H25A in it and use it as a daily driver. I just aquired a '99 Tracker 2-door with a 2.0L that runs great. I'm swapping the engine, ecu, and harness from the '99 into the '02 so I can have my engine back for the X-90 build. I'm likely selling the '02 anyways.
Here's the old '02 engine I'm using for my mock-up. The manifold is backwards with the TBs held in place by one stud just to show what I'm intending. I'll need to make adapter plates for them and also a shaft to sync them off a single cable. I will need 1/4" spacers at the heads so the runners clear the valve cover but otherwise it's a nice fit and gives me more firewall clearence. I plan to move the engine back as far as I can to put the shifter in a more comfortable position and also to shift the weight back a bit.
If I can I want to put the '99 rack and pinion in the X-90. I really hate the steering box on it. WAY to many turns to control such a short wheelbase. How the !@#$ can I control a drift with such slow steering on such a short car? o.o Oh well, AWD doughnuts it is.
The weakest link in the drivetrain besides the bottom end (more on that later) is going to be the trans. All 3 diffs should handle the boosted engine's torque just fine considering it's less then would be applied in 4-low. At least I can speak for the front and rear. The center is another story but if it's the same center diff used in the GV's 4-mode system it should handle the torque just fine. Not to mention the GV is a heavy SUV with towing capacity and my little X90 is just a street toy.
Everything should make for a nice symetrical layout. Pardon my drawing. ^_^ Finally a pic of the car lowered with Mazda 6 17s on it. I need more drop but I have to get the engine in first. Rear shocks ended up being from a Ford Mustang II to prevent the rear end from dropping too low. The springs would otherwise fall out if I used the stock shocks.
It's about time someone posted some real information on the H25A. Here's some info I've dug up.
2.5L H25A:
Size - 153ci (2.5L)
CR - 9.5:1
Cylinder:
Bore 84mm
Stroke 75mm
CR -9.5:1
Rod: (Rods specs as measured by myself and another who's building a J20.)
BE bore - 53mm (no bearings)
PE bore - 21.003-21.011mm
CC Length - 143.2mm
PE width - 18.9mm (digital caliper)
BE width - 20.9mm (digital caliper)
Oil sprayers build into rod BE
Pistons:
Diameter - 83.980-83.990mm
Pin - 20.996-21mm (full float)
Pin Bore - 21mm
Pin center to top - 29.5mm
Pin offset about ~2mm
Crankshaft:
Main journal - A 64.994-65.999mm, B 64.988-64.994mm, C 64.981-64.988 (marked on
Rod journal - A 49.982-49.999mm, B 49.733-49.748mm
Block:
Bore - 1 84.10-84.18mm, 2 84.000-84.008mm (marked on deck surface)
Bore limit - 84.049mm
Bore taper - 0.1mm
Bore out of round - 0.1mm
Deck warpage - .061mm
I'll update as I find out more info.
Pauter make rods for this engine and the J20 (same rod) and maybe fits others. Part# SUZ-210-530-1430F6 6pcs I-beam. About $1200 o.o
Due to the apperent lack of interest at zukiworld, I'm moving my tread here to see if you guys can give some advice or at least get a kick out of the build.
The car:
1996 Suzuki X-90
The build:
2002 Tracker H25A v6 swap
1998 Sidekick front diff (searching for 4:30 gears if anyone has them)
2002 Tracker hub flanges (for AWD)
2008 Grand Vitara 5-speed manual trans
2008 Grand Vitara T-case (single mode with center diff) (for AWD)
199x Honda v6 ECU (OBD2, speed density, no MAF)
AEM FIC piggy back (boost management)
650cc Injectors (unknown what fits H25A rails yet)
2x Garrett T25 turbos (twin set from Nissan 300z)
I'll be making the car full time AWD using what Suzuki calls a "singlemode" transfercase. It doesn't have a shifter and has a center diff. The H25A intake bolts on backwards so I can ditch that large pipe with the throttle body on it and use twin throttle bodies (from Hyundai Excel). I haven't decided if I'm going cheap and making log-style manifolds from the old H25A manis or if I'm going to make shorty tube style manifolds. I need the engine in the car first to see how things lay out.
I own an '02 XR2 Tracker that I bought with a blown engine. I put a junkyard H25A in it and use it as a daily driver. I just aquired a '99 Tracker 2-door with a 2.0L that runs great. I'm swapping the engine, ecu, and harness from the '99 into the '02 so I can have my engine back for the X-90 build. I'm likely selling the '02 anyways.
Here's the old '02 engine I'm using for my mock-up. The manifold is backwards with the TBs held in place by one stud just to show what I'm intending. I'll need to make adapter plates for them and also a shaft to sync them off a single cable. I will need 1/4" spacers at the heads so the runners clear the valve cover but otherwise it's a nice fit and gives me more firewall clearence. I plan to move the engine back as far as I can to put the shifter in a more comfortable position and also to shift the weight back a bit.
If I can I want to put the '99 rack and pinion in the X-90. I really hate the steering box on it. WAY to many turns to control such a short wheelbase. How the !@#$ can I control a drift with such slow steering on such a short car? o.o Oh well, AWD doughnuts it is.
The weakest link in the drivetrain besides the bottom end (more on that later) is going to be the trans. All 3 diffs should handle the boosted engine's torque just fine considering it's less then would be applied in 4-low. At least I can speak for the front and rear. The center is another story but if it's the same center diff used in the GV's 4-mode system it should handle the torque just fine. Not to mention the GV is a heavy SUV with towing capacity and my little X90 is just a street toy.
Everything should make for a nice symetrical layout. Pardon my drawing. ^_^ Finally a pic of the car lowered with Mazda 6 17s on it. I need more drop but I have to get the engine in first. Rear shocks ended up being from a Ford Mustang II to prevent the rear end from dropping too low. The springs would otherwise fall out if I used the stock shocks.
It's about time someone posted some real information on the H25A. Here's some info I've dug up.
2.5L H25A:
Size - 153ci (2.5L)
CR - 9.5:1
Cylinder:
Bore 84mm
Stroke 75mm
CR -9.5:1
Rod: (Rods specs as measured by myself and another who's building a J20.)
BE bore - 53mm (no bearings)
PE bore - 21.003-21.011mm
CC Length - 143.2mm
PE width - 18.9mm (digital caliper)
BE width - 20.9mm (digital caliper)
Oil sprayers build into rod BE
Pistons:
Diameter - 83.980-83.990mm
Pin - 20.996-21mm (full float)
Pin Bore - 21mm
Pin center to top - 29.5mm
Pin offset about ~2mm
Crankshaft:
Main journal - A 64.994-65.999mm, B 64.988-64.994mm, C 64.981-64.988 (marked on
Rod journal - A 49.982-49.999mm, B 49.733-49.748mm
Block:
Bore - 1 84.10-84.18mm, 2 84.000-84.008mm (marked on deck surface)
Bore limit - 84.049mm
Bore taper - 0.1mm
Bore out of round - 0.1mm
Deck warpage - .061mm
I'll update as I find out more info.
Pauter make rods for this engine and the J20 (same rod) and maybe fits others. Part# SUZ-210-530-1430F6 6pcs I-beam. About $1200 o.o