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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Of late is the wiper on my 98 Sport in the driving rain , it works just fine and then it does not. When it is working I have intermittent , normal and fast modes with no problems , no vibration , no hesitancy, no loss of speed. It works most of the time 90% and then just does not work on any position . Today in the rain it stopped for 4 minutes before going back to normal operation? So any guesses as to what is happening? Recently had the mechanic re and re the entire dashboard to install the new heater core and yes that involves removing the steering and controls. 3.5 weeks later this problem has raised it's head for acknowledgement?
 

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Bad connection in the plug to the column from the main loom user the dash? Considering its only started since dash was out I'd be checking all the plugs and connections first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will check that and resand the ground . If necessary I will connect a relay to the wiper motor directly and run it off a switch I looked at Rockauto price for the switch relay and that is a mere 946.00 plus exchange plus install. I really really should have held onto my 94 sidekick !
 

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Check the plugs first, its a bad connection somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you I will check plugs and hope for a better outcome.
 

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Or it could be, perhaps, an issue with the motor itself. When the wipers don’t work, if you bang the motor a bit with a hammer, do they start working again??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Last time they stopped working was in the middle of the freeway on a bridge in a downpour. and that lasted for about 2 minutes till I got off said bridge onto a side road at which point they went back to normal. Luckily for me life is a blur and I am capable of differentiating one blur from another so the wife was terrified and I was calm. If it happens today I will tap said motor , which when checked on last episode was warm but not hot. It is like pulling a fuse and reinserting it , as everything works good and suddenly it does not , then it does. I will check the connections as well today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have done a bit of researching here looking to see how to remove my wiper arms, to then remove the plastic cowl ,and clean what debris may or may not be present. So I looked for the removal tool and the one shown looks easy and cheap and after buying it I can not use it because the plastic cowling is in the way? Nope no room to slip it underneath and no the plastic cowling is rock hard and not flexible enough to push it into place. Wipers are working just fine now and I have done nothing to fix them? Only wanted to remove arms to make sure the air passage behind cowling is clear.
any suggestions or should I finally get the shattered windshield replaced and the installers have the problem? I wonder if they clean debris fields or just replace the glass?
 

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What removal tool? Are you talking about a wiper arm puller??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What removal tool? Are you talking about a wiper arm puller??
Yes the wiper arm puller. The one on amazon with the knob to turn was recommended and on the Sport the cowling is not permitting the tool to go under to grasp the bottom of the arm.
BTW which pivot on the wiper drive is the one bolted in from the dashboard ?
 

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The part that goes under the nut, on that puller with the knob, is somewhat thick and large. Others, like this link, you’ll notice have a much smaller piece to put under the the nut:
There are also videos on YT that show you the possibility of doing this with a screwdriver and a block of wood, hitting the top of the post, when the nut has been removed, with a hammer. You run the risk of damaging the cowl this way, however. Here:
 

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I've never had a wiper arm so stuck that I needed a puller - for the type of arm shown in that video, remove the nut, lift the blade away from the screen, hold the arm near the pivot and rock it gently up & down has worked for me.

A universal valve spring compressor like this Harbor Freight cheapie might help.

Font Fashion accessory Machine Auto part Titanium
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I will take the non working remover back and get the battery remover instead . However before I do that I will see if the remover will get its little hands under the lip of the arm as I remember on the 94 sidekick, there was lots of room but the Sport has very little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
#8 · Sep 7, 2013

The top center of the firewall has an access plate that lets you get to the central part of the linkage (right behind distributor). Once the wiper arms and cowl cover are off, you can slip the drivers side arm back on. move the arm like before and look through that plate to see if the linkage is moving. The problem might be the cogs on the arm, or the bushings in the linkage.

I had to replace my entire linkage. If you do, there is a bolt under the dash. The entire dash has to be removed. Also, if you disconnect the motor, make certain that you have the alignment marked. It is a bear to coordinate the movement if you don't. Don't ask me how I know that. LOL

I noticed there is play in the driver side arm attachment point whereas the passenger side is not moveable at all. Just the attachment points not anything seized.
Well this makes life a little bit more expensive as I did not know about the dashboard bolt till after the dash was re+re'd for the heater core. Atm I do not know if the bolt needs replacing . Well first things first and that is to remove the arm to to remove the plastic cowling , to clean out any debris that may be choking the air intake. I have not had any recurrence of the wipers shutting off since my two episodes last month? All connections tight ,fuse is good, horribly expensive switch and relay on steering column appears just like it always has, tight and functional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just an update as the rain was coming down and I was headed for the freeway and they stopped working . They stop in the parked position and I pulled off the road left the wipers on and gave it a tap and voila wipers back to normal. So is this a short in the wiper motor a sticky brush or do I just replace the motor without bothering to find it's problem?
Is there much of a problem getting the wiper motor out as after all it is a suzuki?
 

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if you tap and it restarts, then it could be that one of the rotor commutator winding has gone bad. regretfully it will require total dismantle just to check. when youll have the motor rotor in hand you need to check the resistance/no grounding of each commutator plate opposed pairs.
 

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Just an update as the rain was coming down and I was headed for the freeway and they stopped working . They stop in the parked position and I pulled off the road left the wipers on and gave it a tap and voila wipers back to normal. So is this a short in the wiper motor a sticky brush or do I just replace the motor without bothering to find it's problem?
Is there much of a problem getting the wiper motor out as after all it is a suzuki?
Mine is currently doing the same thing, although very intermittently. I imagine it‘s probably time for a replacement. Tapping on the motor itself will not fix a wiring problem. The problem would most likely be in the motor, as Turbo indicates, and if so, repair is probably unlikely.
This diagram shows how it is connected in your Sport, as well as the factory part numbers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hmmmn pulling the motor looks easy so I guess I will go to the wrecker and see if it is as easy as it appears. Rock auto has them for 170 or more and that is cheaper than what I can buy it up here. I am getting the windshield replaced soon and they will take off the wiper arms whilst doing so. As one arm I did get off had a rust bonding time over the eons of time it sat there , it was not the easy rock back and forth that others have claimed to get it off. Glass guys will pop it off and maybe then the rock to and fro will work.
 

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before you buy one, try to have a peek inside, dc electric motors are not rocket science....it could be even stupid such as stuck motor brushes needing to be freed

all my bad starters ever needed was new brushes.
 

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If you use an amp clamp and a scope you can record all the insidious faults in the motor, incl brush, commutator, winding..current draw. all without removing a screw..
 
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