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Discussion Starter #1
I think this is a GM cs130 alternator, from a 1988 Chevy Astro van?? I could be wrong, but it did come out of a 88 astro van.. Can I get some clarification please. If t not a GM cs130, what bracket will work to make this unit fit on mu Zuki?
Thanks my Friends in advance for your replies






 

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yeah that's the CS130. It will work just fine with the bracket that they sell for the 10 and 12is alternators. You'll need to switch the pulley for a v-belt pulley. Theres a guy that sells kits for them that include the bracket and an adapter plug to the stock connectors for 40 bucks, for 60 he'll throw in a belt too. . Another guy sells just the bracket for 30.
 

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That is the CS130 but the only problem is the bolt pattern. You'll have to fab a top bracket because the kits use the factory top arm. The alt in your pic has the 10 and 6 o'clock pattern and the kits use the 12 an 6 o'clock pattern. Shouldn't be hard to alter the original by splicing in a section.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so, my next question is, what pigtail to I get and how do I wire it. This is a four pin plug in.. lettered S, L, F, and P.

how do I hook this up?
 

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You need a new, separate #6AWG (or larger) charge wire to run directly from the alternator to the battery. This wire replaces the not-heavy-enough OEM charge wire, which can simply be folded back onto the harness and taped off. If you try to use it, you will someday blow the fusible link. Some folks have bypassed the fusible link, but it protects the remainder of the vehicle wiring and prevents an electrical fire. Just one electrical fire could ruin your whole day.

The two wires used on the CS130 are the S (sense) and L (lamp) terminals. You'll need a compatible plug to make a clean connection to the CS130. You can buy the adapter pre-made from Paul at "adventure-off-rd" on eBay, or scrounge the parts and make it yourself.

I think it's better to connect the S (sense) terminal directly to the output stud, once you've got the heavy dedicated charge wire going to the battery. The S terminal allows for remote sense, which I'm inclined NOT to use in this configuration (because a flaky sense connection in 20-year-old wiring could result in "boiling" the battery). The L terminal goes to the charge indicator light and provides a tickle of current through the bulb to get the alternator started at low RPM. Once the alternator gets started, it is self-exciting and the lamp goes out.

"Warbird" posted a CS130 wiring option "B" for the PLFS configuration at GM CS130 alternator recently. This is a popular subject, and there is much to be found through searching.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Merlin, You truly are a wizard! Thank You for your reply!

You need a new, separate #6AWG (or larger) charge wire to run directly from the alternator to the battery. This wire replaces the not-heavy-enough OEM charge wire, which can simply be folded back onto the harness and taped off. If you try to use it, you will someday blow the fusible link. Some folks have bypassed the fusible link, but it protects the remainder of the vehicle wiring and prevents an electrical fire. Just one electrical fire could ruin your whole day.

The two wires used on the CS130 are the S (sense) and L (lamp) terminals. You'll need a compatible plug to make a clean connection to the CS130. You can buy the adapter pre-made from Paul at "adventure-off-rd" on eBay, or scrounge the parts and make it yourself.

I think it's better to connect the S (sense) terminal directly to the output stud, once you've got the heavy dedicated charge wire going to the battery. The S terminal allows for remote sense, which I'm inclined NOT to use in this configuration (because a flaky sense connection in 20-year-old wiring could result in "boiling" the battery). The L terminal goes to the charge indicator light and provides a tickle of current through the bulb to get the alternator started at low RPM. Once the alternator gets started, it is self-exciting and the lamp goes out.

"Warbird" posted a CS130 wiring option "B" for the PLFS configuration at GM CS130 alternator recently. This is a popular subject, and there is much to be found through searching.
 

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The current through the "idiot" light is used to get the alternator started. If you're not using the red battery lamp in the instrument cluster, you should connect a 150 Ohm resistor, about a 1 Watt size, from the switched side of the wiring to the "L" (lamp) terminal of the CS130. This provides the tickle of startup current necessary to get the CS130 charging after the engine starts. The lamp is an E74 (European 74) and draws 0.1Ampere at 14V, which is about 140 Ohms. The value is super non-critical, and anything between 100 - 200 Ohms should work fine. Do NOT NOT NOT connect the L terminal directly to 12V, even for a moment. You'll instantly destroy the internal regulator. [The Delco specified range is 35-350 Ohms, and I prefer to be in the middle of that, 100-150 Ohms, right where the E74 lamp is.]

Remembering that you have the PLFS configuration, Option C, as shown, is for the PLIS configuration and does not apply to your alternator. You could use option A, but I think Option B, with the voltage sense wire connected directly to the alternator output is a better way, as long as you use a stout, new heavy gauge (#6 AWG or better) charging wire directly to the battery. I'd just tape off the two unused wires, rather than cut them out of the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Merlin... WOW, thank You again. If you ever make it up to Idyllwild, Lunch is on me!! I see your in the LA area!

The current through the "idiot" light is used to get the alternator started. If you're not using the red battery lamp in the instrument cluster, you should connect a 150 Ohm resistor, about a 1 Watt size, from the switched side of the wiring to the "L" (lamp) terminal of the CS130. This provides the tickle of startup current necessary to get the CS130 charging after the engine starts. The lamp is an E74 (European 74) and draws 0.1Ampere at 14V, which is about 140 Ohms. The value is super non-critical, and anything between 100 - 200 Ohms should work fine. Do NOT NOT NOT connect the L terminal directly to 12V, even for a moment. You'll instantly destroy the internal regulator. [The Delco specified range is 35-350 Ohms, and I prefer to be in the middle of that, 100-150 Ohms, right where the E74 lamp is.]

Remembering that you have the PLFS configuration, Option C, as shown, is for the PLIS configuration and does not apply to your alternator. You could use option A, but I think Option B, with the voltage sense wire connected directly to the alternator output is a better way, as long as you use a stout, new heavy gauge (#6 AWG or better) charging wire directly to the battery. I'd just tape off the two unused wires, rather than cut them out of the harness.
 

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Does anyone know of a place that makes the bracket for the CS144 alternator? I've searched a few sites and no one has posted about it. I wrote to the guy at adventure-off road and he said he can make one but it will cost a little more than the cs130 bracket he sells. The CS130 he sells is already $40... I didn't exactly want to pay that much for a metal bracket, I certainly don't want to pay MORE than that for one.
 

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Just from looking at pics of the CS144 it looks to me the the same bracket should work. If the lower pivot is shorter than the CS130 just shim it up with warshers or if it's longer then just grind a little off the spacer.
 

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I think that's what I'll do. I just made an offer on a rebuilt cs144 140 amp alternator for 60 dollars with a 90 day warantee. TT wrote me back and said their brackets are designed for the 10 and 12SI alternators but I read that they use the same bracket as the CS144. Regardless, I will make it fit. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
one issue I am having is my stock pulley will not fit the CS103 Alt, the alternator came with a "6 groove serpintine pully". Does anyone know the part number for a pulley that will work that has a "v groove"
 

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Discussion Starter #20
the pulley on the stock alt would not fit, the center hole was too small.
You can use the Napa or autozone belt 15345, that will still fit..
Off to the junk yard again for me!!
 
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