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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I have a Suzuki alto 2009 model with 169K mileage wanted to know which oil grade should I use for my car? Currently I am using Shell hellix hx5 mineral engine oil , 0w-20 and 5w-30 are the recommended oil grades but I've heard if your mileage is is over 100K you engine will benefit from a thicker higher viscosity engine oil is that true? or should I switch to a 5w30 fully synthetic engine oil ?

Also I wanted to know should I use an engine oil flush before draining the oil engine oil or not?
 

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don't use a flush, its likely to cause more issues than not.

if its not burning oil, then a 5W-30 HX-5 mineral like you are running will do no harm. Change it as per the "extreme" running section of the owners handbook (unless you are out on the open road all the time)

Switching to a full synthetic can cause some engines to burn oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey I have a Suzuki alto 2009 model with 169K mileage wanted to know which oil grade should I use for my car? Currently I am using Shell hellix hx5 mineral engine oil , 0w-20 and 5w-30 are the recommended oil grades but I've heard if your mileage is is over 100K you engine will benefit from a thicker higher viscosity engine oil is that true? or should I switch to a 5w30 fully synthetic engine oil ?

Also I wanted to know should I use an engine oil flush before draining the oil engine oil or not?
don't use a flush, its likely to cause more issues than not.

if its not burning oil, then a 5W-30 HX-5 mineral like you are running will do no harm. Change it as per the "extreme" running section of the owners handbook (unless you are out on the open road all the time)

Switching to a full synthetic can cause some engines to burn oil.
Shell hellix hx5 is 10w40 not 5w30 , one of my friend told me it depends if the engine has been properly maintained and is in healthy condition you can use 5w30 fully synthetic oil but if its not and it has worn seals etc then you'd be better off using the thicker grade oil and fully synthetic oil will clean up the sludge which is covering those holes after which oil will start to leak
 

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hx-5 is available in several viscosity grades, 10W-40 being the lightest. 20W-50 being the more common.

if its not burning oil or making funny noises what you are running will be fine. 5W-30 is recommended, but 10W-30 will be fine for summer running.

If its been running on mineral oil for a while, switching to synthetic can cause oil leaks. Leave it on the mineral oil, its not going to cause any harm as l9ong as its changed regularly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just checked its even available in 5w30 . I got this car last year the mileage then was 160K . The previous owner told me to use HX5 but he did not tell me the grade , I do not have the car's mannual book and I don't think its consuming engine oil , but the engine does knock sometimes when accelerating the car but when I put in high octane it does not knock but then it does make a different noise sometimes , There are high mileage 5w30 engine oils too whats your opinion about them? & what about using Semi synthetic / synthetic technology which is a mixture of conventional / mineral oil & synthetic , my dad bought an identical car as mine same model as well the previous owner was using 10w40 in it but I put shell hellix hx7 5w30 semi synthetic in his car its running smooth without any issues
 

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A friend of mine whose a mechanic is using 5w30 fully synthetic in Toyota crown , which has 600K mileage, he said the thing is its possible only if the engine has to be in healthy condition , Fully synthetic does extends the life the engine & prevents sludge from building up but like you said if its been running on mineral so obviously sludge has formed up, sludge may be the only barrier keeping oil from seeping through worn or cracked seals. & in that case using an oil flush or a fully synthetic will remove the sludge exposing the seals for what they really are and oil starts to leak , this the problem with second hand cars that you do not know their previous history , I think it would be best for me to get the engine physically inspected & if the engine is in healthy condition then using 10w40 will reduce its life as most wear & tear occurs when the engine is cold and a thicker oil such as 10w40 will take longer to get to the parts compared to 5w30 , not only that but it puts stress on the engine , causing it to heat up and use more gas/fuel
 

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Don't flush!

Many years ago I had a 1098cc MG Midget MK2 and flushed the engine with flushing oil - I drained it all out and refilled with new oil. My engine then "blew up" on the next long journey - the cause being that the residual flushing oil had turned the new oil to a water-like state. Never touched it since. My engine was so ruined by this that I had to replace the bottom end with a Morris Minor block and pistons as the 10CC block was even then quite rare - the drop from 1098cc to 998cc did make a difference even though I kept the MG head and twin carbs. My 1999 993cc Alto has done just short of 4000 miles and I use generic 10W40 semi-synthetic - and it seems happy enough.
 

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I've heard if your mileage is is over 100K you engine will benefit from a thicker higher viscosity engine oil is that true?
The only reason to switch to a higher viscosity oil is if the ambient temperatures dictate it.

Colder weather causes the oil to thicken which impedes circulation until the engine has warmed to operating temperatures, so vehicle manufacturers specify lighter oils for cold weather operation.

Having said that - an old mechanics trick is to run heavier oils in worn engines as a means of reducing oil consumption, but it is not a requirement on high mileage engines, and the only benefit is to your wallet.

High mileage engines can benefit from the use of oils specifically blended for high mileage engines, these "high mileage" blends are generally available in all the viscosity ranges - the advantages vary with the additive package used in the blend, typically there will be a higher level of detergents which help to dissolve sludge and trap it in suspension, along with soot, there will also be "seal plumpers", which help keep rubber seals softer so that they seal better, and minimize leaks.

I think it would be best for me to get the engine physically inspected & if the engine is in healthy condition then using 10w40 will reduce its life as most wear & tear occurs when the engine is cold and a thicker oil such as 10w40 will take longer to get to the parts compared to 5w30 , not only that but it puts stress on the engine , causing it to heat up and use more gas/fuel
Go back and read the second paragraph in my response, whether you use a 5w30 or a 10w40 should be dictated by climate & ambient temperature - in some climates a 5w30 would be unacceptably thin - also, the grade of oil is unlikely to cause the engine to run any hotter or colder, there's a little device called a thermostat whose job is to see that engine runs at or close to the optimal temperature - too cold, and the thermostat closes, restricting coolant circulation so that the engine runs hotter, too hot, it opens, increasing circulation, the radiator dissipates more of the heat and the engine runs cooler.

One last thing to think about - research synthetics and see how they are made - find out which brands are really synthesized and which ones use a mineral oil base stock - the term "synthetic oil" has been reduced by the legal system to nothing more than marketing hype - if I am correct only one brand is 100% synthetic, and the others are all mineral oil - highly refined, but still coming out of a hole in the ground.
 
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