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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was on my way home and driving through San Jose and there was a HUGE BANG! and the pedal sunk to the floor. Pulled over and there was a small piece of metal on the floor.

The metal bit is the clamp that hold the cable and connects to the pedal lever. booooooo it looks like it over stressed and let go of the cable.

I *might* be able to rig something up and fix it until I can get a new cable, but I really would rather just get a new cable.


Does anybody know anywhere in San Jose/Fremont I can pick one up without ordering it?

And if that falls through, where should I order one online or local parts store?
 

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Personally, I would get the cable from Suzuki, as my original cable went after 170,000 miles, and would have lasted longer if I hadn't been a cowboy. Cables are a bit confusing for the Trackick, as aftermarket ones often measure themselves from different places, and there are a number of different ones. The one thing to remember is that you need the cable end, at the tranny, to be the same as what you currently have. You don't advise what you are driving (and should put your specs in your signature) but the early Trackicks have a locking nut at the end, and the later ones have a rubber boot. You need to hav the correct one for your car. It would appear that, if your cable was causing stress (and you need to check the firewall around the grommet where the cable goes through) your cable may not have been installed correctly, kinked, etc.
Anyway, you can check with SW Suzuki for OEM or Rockauto for aftermarket cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok, I looked and I have the rubber end.

How do I know what that part number is? All I know is I have a 95' Geo Tracker 2wd 16v. If I go to the Suzuli parts I don't know what model that is.'

Also, is there anything I should look at while "I'm down there" When I looked at the cable end on the pedal side there was no slack in the cable it was pushed back against the firewall.

What actually broke was the metal clip that connects the cable to the pedal, it bent outward until it snapped. I had no issues until it broke. And the firewall doesn't look damaged, neither does the cable. BUT the screws against the firewall were loose.
 

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Use the Suzuki part number to trace it. For the 16v, the part number is 23710-57B11.
If anyone is looking for the 8v equivalent, it's 23710-60A11.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I ordered a cable from Amazon, and got it installed in about 30 minutes. I fist had it adjusted too far and then adjusted it too far back I think, driving it today I can hear the trans click when I put it into 2nd and it's a little hard to put into reverse.


The cable I got was the same length as the one I removed just to note.

This is the one I ordered. I was about to order the ATP version until I read reviews ended up with the one in the link below.
Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 093-0642 Clutch Cable - Import: Automotive


Thanks for the help.
 

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You can check your cable adjustment by getting under the car to the lever just at the end of the clutch cable, and pushing that in until you feel resistance. Have someone in the car who then depresses the clutch pedal. The cable at the yoke where you are, should move forward about one inch, and the covering surrounding the cable should not move at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok so just wanted to give an update. I still haven't adjusted the cable, but will this weekend. I'm kinda glad I didn't. The cable has settled further, haha I've stalled it a couple of times.

So this weekend I'll adjust it finally/
 

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Stalling it, meaning that the clutch is engaging/disengaging at the bottom end of pedal travel? If so, just my personal opinion - I prefer to have the clutch engage about halfway up on the travel so that you are sure that it is fully disengaged when you are driving.
 
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