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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Not getting juice to the newly installed fuel pump I suspect it's the fuel pump relay that's crapped out. Just where on this planet is this sucker mounted. Short of a total dismantle I can't find it any where under the dash.

1995 Cami built Sidekick JLX. I've purchased a new relay, but can't find the old one to replace it with. I can't test the old one until I find it.

The old fuel pump worked, connecting the two pins to a battery. Free flow (no back pressure, it easily pumped out over 11 gallons of old gas in about 10 minutes. Installed a new one anyway,had the dang tank out of the car so didn't make any sense not to just put the new one in. 197,000 miles on the original fuelpump.

Please be specific as to it's location. Describe the relay as best as you can. What I have to put back in is rubber square, 4 pins,hangs on a 3/4 Inch or so metal tab. Looks very similar to the two hanging on the side of the Primary big a$$ fuses next to the battery. One with the A/C relay hanging on it

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
define DISTINCTLY "By the ECM". Also describe what it should look like, Material, shape, length, width, thickness or height. How close are we talking, like in inches or part thereof.
I ask because if I'm reading you correctly, it's a black plastic BOX with a circuit board inside. The connector has 12 pins, and is bright green in color. It's maybe 1 inch from the ECM The manual/wiring diagram suggests there's only 4 pins.not 12. The replacement is rubberized, 1 inch X 3/4 inch, 2 1/8th inches tall. The hanger rubber makes that 3/4 inch dimension 1 inch, 3/8's of an inch lower than the very top. That has a hanging slot or "slit" a little over 9/16ths thick (vertically). the rubber coating extends down below where the wireing connector would plug in to surround the plug-inned connector once inserted. The replacement looks just like the TWO on the driver's side of the Primary fuse block near the battery under the hood. The A/C fuse (25 amps) is attached to one of the two rubber covered ones that look identical to the fuel pump relay I purchased to replace the original one. Again, where the hell is it? there is NOTHING like that within 10 inches of the ECM. I cannot find ANYTHING like it anywhere under the dash in front of the driver.

Jim
 

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If you locate your ECU, you’ll find two relays, dangling near it - one of them is black and one is green. They look exactly the same. The green one is the fuel pump relay. It will have a pink/black wire coming out of it.
Photo:
https://www.google.com/search?as_q=Photo+fuel+pump+relay&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all&as_sitesearch=https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&as_rights=#imgdii=_JiVol30vQuIxM:&imgrc=p0iGaqIFDFaOcM:
Your ECU is located under the left front speaker, so look between your steering wheel and that speaker, under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fuel pump relay

Bex,

You are CLOSE, but not quite a cigar. Did find it though. It's black with a white plug recepticle. It doesn't dangle,it's mounted to a thin "finger" that's mounted down (both do). The wired plug (male) is GREEN with the 4 wires coming from it. the OTHER one is white with a white plug going to it with another 4 wires attached. Number marked on the relay is: 31850-80C10 then going down to the plug is E8T15171 then lastly is 4611. NO rubber at all. Tall extenders on the sides which aren't on the "new one (worthless to me now). Now gotta find a source for the correct one. I'll do the test for the old one anyway.
Thanks Bex, you got me looking in a "better place". Another "source" said attached to the Heater; second of 4 relays (vertically mounted). WRONG!!!WAY OFF.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #6
fuelpump relay.

Fuelpump relay tested fine. Both good and bad. Bad since new relay (which I now don't need) won't cure problem. Also doesn't tell me what IS wrong.

No short or open from behind lefttail-light to fuel pum connector. So wiring between is good. Turn key "on" no 12 volts to big plug at pink wire. near left rear tail-light. Not getting the 12V somewhere toward front of car.

Even with a separate 12 V battery, the fuel pump doesn't "thumpthump thump. It's more a "Buzz". Took forever for gas to reach the bleed screw at the fuel filter. Would take triple forever to finally get to the pressure regulator at injector Tube.

I can't hear for diddly. never have been abvle to. Did keep me out of Nam tho; flunked physical three times when I was drafted in High School. Yep, three "Greetings from the President", yoiu are herby ordered toappear at your localdraftboard such and such a time, such and such a date. You be there or US Marshalls are gonna be looking for you.

Wife will have to be my "ears". going forward is really going to be a chore now.

Questions:

1) does the fuelpump have a pressure regulator (higher than what goes to the injectors) that stops it pumping when the pressure reaches so high, or cycles? or does it continuously pumps and excess fuel is just returned to the tank from the front of the engine via the charcoal canister? If it runs continuous as long as the key is "on" then I could run a wire from the fuseblock or battery back to the left rear tail-light and splice in to the known good pink wire feeding the fuelpump. Just have to remember to turn the switch off when parked and turned off again. Need to see if ECU pink is coming "on". That will require wife ears.I'll never hear the relay click (if it does).

The 95 sidekick must have 10 miles of wire under the dash. My GeoTracker (96) has 1 tenth of that. hardly any wires running all over under the dash. Almost half as many fuses in the driver side under dash fuse Block in the 96 Tracker. Every hole filled in this 95.

Jim
 

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The fuel pump doesn’t ‘go thump’ but actually buzzes. For only THREE seconds at each key on. If it’s buzzing, presumably it’s getting voltage.
You need to be testing the pink wire with the black tracer which would be behind the left rear tail light. The solid pink wire comes out of the relay and goes to the ECU.
I guess you are a good example of ‘if it’s not broke, don’t fix it’, as you advise that your old pump was working well, but you replaced it anyway. If the old one worked, but the new one doesn’t, either the new one is not appropriate for your vehicle (it must be for EFI, with a spec of 34-41 psi), or else something was amiss with your installation.....
 
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