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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok So I got what I'd like to think a really damn good deal. I found a '94 Geo Tracker a block away from my house. My car had just broken down (stuck in 2nd) So I bought the tracker for $800, It's in pretty good shape minus a few things expected for a 20 year old vehicle with 225k on the odom. To start is an oil and transmission leak. I've narrowed the oil down to the oil pan as that's the majority of the issue. I'm thinking just a gasket should solve the problem. I was tinkering underneath it today and noticed the 2 drops of tranny forming at the top of the tranny just above the inspection hole. There's a serious buildup of oil all the way down the drive shaft. Now the good would be I haven't found a single bit of rust. I cold started it today and it sputtered the whole time but stayed firing. It has an exhaust leak that I'll be getting taken care of. The rest of it I'm going to do on my own time. Which isn't much between work and family. I used to have a "special" motorcycle that if it wasn't for a forum It would have never made it back on the road. It has a salvage title so I'm going to need a break and light inspection along with smog. (Forgot to mention I live in CA) everything works minus the turn signals... The guy mentioned that before they went out he seen smoke coming from the hazard button on the steering column. Now the wiring to the lights is good. The hazard's work. The hi low beam works. I found a manual but haven't found the page I need from it (manual is from a 96 would that matter?) Anyhow Thanks in advanced Looking forward to being part of the community.
 

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... I found a '94 Geo Tracker ...

... I found a manual but haven't found the page I need from it (manual is from a 96 would that matter?)
Depending on the subject.... yes it does matter.

there are three basic "types" of 1st gen "Trackicks. 89 and 90 = "early" 91 is more of a cross over year but closer to the later 92's. 92 to 95 are OBD1 and 96 to 98 are OBD2. If your are in the same type, the manual should be close. But also consider any market differences. Like the 8v and 16v for federal and California markets.

DO NOT use aftermarket manuals... waste of time due to bad info. Best is to get the proper year FSM. (I have and like the 1994 Tracker manual even for Sidekicks.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
m000035;736530 (I have and like the 1994 Tracker manual even for Sidekicks.)[/QUOTE said:
Is it available to download or can I view it on Google Drive? I was wondering how come it didn't have the OBD2 sensor. Next to the battery their is the is little jumper that served as a diagnostics tool on my motorcycle. I'm assuming it's the same? Grab a paper clip jump it?
 

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Welcome to the forum. And great luck on your good deal....
Some things to think about - normally these cars do not come with an oil pan gasket - they used RTV sealant at the factory. You need to really confirm that this is where your oil leak is coming from (perhaps really clean the area and run the car to see if you can find the source of the leak). Remember that motors spray leaking oil all over the place so sometimes the source is difficult to find - some common oil leak areas on this car would be the valve cover (possibly burned on after 20 years) and the o-rings in the distributor, which dumps oil in the rear of the engine, tranny bellhousing, etc.

For a new car my advice would be to first confirm the engine health/timing by doing a compression test - easy to do on this car - just pull the F1 fuse under the dash, all plugs, battery well charged, and floor the gas pedal as you are cranking about 5 times for peak compression. Your car should pull in about 170psi on all cylinders, unless the engine is stone cold.
I would also change all fluid and filters - oil, tranny, diffs, etc. - spark plugs gapped to .028" and not just used out of the box.
Also confirm that the check engine light is on with the key on, and off once the car starts. You only need a metal paperclip to get codes from the computer. Instructions here:
Check Engine Light
You are jumping the pins for the blue/yellow and black wires. Code 12 means that the computer sees no major faults. You can re-set the computer by removing the fuse for the dome light for a minute, to confirm if any codes that you do get are old and in memory.
For your turn signal problem - the headlights work off of a different circuit, by the way - the hazards and the turn signals also work off of different fuses. So I would first confirm that the turn signal fuse (which also takes care of the back up lights) is actually good. and that the yellow wire that runs from the turn signal fuse to the combination switch on the steering column is ok.
The factory service manual for 92-94 should be ok for you, as there isn't much change in those years - I have the 91 FSM, and it seems pretty correct for most things, as well. The 1996 FSM is online at Acks FAQS for free downloading:
Ack's FAQ 1996 Geo Tracker Factory Service Manual
However, in 1996, these cars in the US went to OBD2, so much of the electronics in your car will be different. As Mike says, I would stay away from Chiltons or Haynes...
The turn signal circuit is here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Bex... I Knew I was going to have to change fluids and filters. Along with the belts and timing cover. It got melted on some how... long run would be removing the carpets... The window was broken and he left it sitting in his back yard. between the cat hair and leaves the carpet is disgusting... How's Rockauto for parts? too good to be true?
 

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Rockauto is great for parts, but you need to be quite careful, as they often confuse 16v with 8v parts, etc. So you need to do a bit of research first just to make sure you are getting what's compatible to your car. Hopefully you will not have an unwelcome surprise when you lift the carpets - they can hide rust in the floor pan, etc. I pulled my carpet completely off and never replaced it. While you are replacing the timing belt cover, just check the torque of the center crank bolt while you are there - it needs to be 94ft/lbs - some people remove this bolt mistakenly when doing the timing belt, and don't torque it properly when they replace it, leading the keyway damage on the crank snout.
Tons of info on the forum, for just about any issue you may have. Or ask....;)

Edit: Regarding Rockauto (or anywhere else) remember that you are actually driving a rebadged Suzuki Sidekick. The Sidekick is much better supported and it is usually better to get your parts (or info) using that as your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I don't think I'm gonna tackle the majority of this with out my brothers help. He already thinks it's cute that I have this thing in my garage. I've learned stuff the hard way. (like hydrolocking my bike) Hopfully I'll be able to get something taken care of tonight. Not sure how much I can do with a toddler around. But it's my day off today. I wanna get something done. Thanks about Rock Auto. I'll go back through and rebuild me cart. I was thinking about getting parts from the local parts store. But 17 bucks for a belt....
 

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... Thanks about Rock Auto. I'll go back through and rebuild me cart. I was thinking about getting parts from the local parts store. But 17 bucks for a belt....
$17 for the belt, $50 in shipping! Just keep an eye on the shipping locations... some are stupid high. (Like $200 shipping on 99 cent finger sized PCV valve! I haven't a clue of the actual warehouse location but from the shipping costs, it might be on the moon!)

I select ALL possibilities for every item, then go through later and select items from the same warehouse(s) to reduce overall shipping costs. Often I'll get better quality parts for less total money. Sometimes I'll throw in good oil filters for my other rigs and get them shipped for free.

Just like most things... buyer beware. You will not get what you do not pay for.

I thought someone had a 1994 or 1995 manual posted on line.... I wouldn't know, as I do not need one. I have a nice selection of paper manuals mostly from eBay. Set up a search for the actual manual you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll have to search a bit more then when I get home. I took it to get the muffler fixed. It has a hole in somewhere. During the drive it would feel as if the transmission disengaged and the revs would climb. I'd release the gas and It would start going again. It was smoking really bad from just about every where. With the amount of built up oil that's caked on I'm suspecting that is the cause.
 

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Before you touch that oil pan - as a general rule the oil pans don't give trouble - Suzuki does not use a gasket, they use RTV and don't leak unless disturbed. You mentioned oil above the tranny - a common leak area is the distributor mount (there is an O ring seal) and that may be the source of the oil down below.

Degrease thoroughly and be sure you need to remove the oil pan before doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for that. I was going to get gaskets and tear into it on Monday with my brother. I drove it back from the shop (which nothing was done) and by the time i got home it had just started smoking so I popped open the hood. And low and behold it's all coming out of the valve cover. I also noticed that what might have been a rubber gasket popped way out of place on the timing case cover.
 

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I'll have to search a bit more then when I get home. I took it to get the muffler fixed. It has a hole in somewhere. During the drive it would feel as if the transmission disengaged and the revs would climb. I'd release the gas and It would start going again. It was smoking really bad from just about every where. With the amount of built up oil that's caked on I'm suspecting that is the cause.
Certainly if you have oil all over the engine, etc., when the engine gets hot, this oil will start smoking like crazy. As Fordem says, you need to thoroughly clean the engine to see where the oil is coming from. And most definitely x2 about not removing the oil pan.

Before trying to diagnose anything in the car, I would suggest that you first change all the fluids and filters (particularly as you are now talking about tranny slipping or 'flare'), do a compression test to confirm the valve timing, tune it up, put in new plugs (gap them), etc., confirm that you are getting a code 12 from the ECU. Only when you have the foundation of all of this, can you then go on to diagnose engine/tranny problems - if, indeed, your maintenance hasn't repaired a few of them....
 

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The timing "case" gasket is not a gasket perse - more of a foam dust seal - it doesn't hold oil in because there's no oil in the timing case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the dust cover clarification. I'm trying to figure out how I'm gonna get the thing vertical to degrease and wash the undercarriage. I'm thinking a cherry picker and a pressure washer. Good idea bad idea?
 

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I'm not in favour of pressure washers and fuel injected engines - it's too easy to force water past the seals into the various sensors - spray on degreaser, a paint brush and a garden hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not in favour of pressure washers and fuel injected engines - it's too easy to force water past the seals into the various sensors - spray on degreaser, a paint brush and a garden hose.
Even for the under carriage? It's a lot of caked on oil...
 

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Use your best judgement.
 

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... I also noticed that what might have been a rubber gasket popped way out of place on the timing case cover. ...
The pictured rubber gasket is for the timing belt cover. As it protects the timing belt, there isn't oil inside that cover... or at least there shouldn't be! :rolleyes:

After you get the motor clean(er), spray on some cheap white foot powder and run the motor a little. Oil leaks should make "tracks" in the powder and indicate the exact leak spots. Shouldn't be too hard on this motor as most sides are fairly visible with out much disassembly.... unlike some other designs.

On this motor the main oil leak points (in order) are the distributor o-rings, the valve cover, front and rear seals and cam seal. The oil pan is an issue mostly only if it has been pulled sometime after leaving the factory.
 

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Even for the under carriage? It's a lot of caked on oil...
If by undercarriage you mean chassis, etc., then I have carefully used a pressure washer on the frame from behind the engine toward the back and around the rear suspension, wheel wells, etc. But never on the engine - there are electronics there that don't take kindly to pressurized water.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yep that's what I mean. Ok I'm cleaning the bay when I get off today. I spent some company time and tinkered with the window regulator. My cable is in tact all the way through. After reading other posts I'm in decent shape. My window stays in track and glides up and down with out snags. The problem bis the cable around the winder thingamagij. It's all tangled up like Christmas lights... wondering if I can get away with a new cable or a whole new regulator...
 
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