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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone first post.

I have a 1995 4dr sidekick and was wondering what wire harness I get and where to pick one up for an after market radio?

I am going 13hrs away to pickup a mint shape sidekick and want to put in a radio for the drive. If there is any other pointers I need to prepare for please let me know.

Thanx guys
 

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dont know where you are in the world, but walmart has thrm for 8 bucks or so stateside.
 

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Others (Ranger/Ed) have pointed at the adapter cables that you SHOULD use if your new TracKick has the stock plugs. Too bad very few actually use them :( Most seem to like to butcher the harness and splice the after-market plug right to the cars harness. The splices and hack jobs I have seen are NOT very reliable and adapters are much nicer as you can do all the wiring at a work bench (or kitchen table) ... then install it. MUCH easier to do a good splice job. (Solder is best, but if you have to use crimps, get a GOOD crimping tool.)

BUT.... If your rig doesn't have the stock plugs, the recommended adapter plugs will not be of any use to you. (So be sure you can return them.) The thread Bex points to has info on the wires and her idea of swapping pins from one connector to another (to avoid splicing) is a good one.... if the pins are the same size. Every one of my after-market radios has different sized plugs.

As all or my rigs have already been butchered, I have started using male/female bullet connectors instead of splices. That way I can swap radios from one rig to another, or a new unit in, without any more splicing. I use the female for the positive signals and males for negative ones. Thinking that if they come unconnected the female is less likely to short to ground. This also is a system that keeps the male/female the same on all the different rigs.

One last thing, most of the late model radios have all these little buttons that do about 101 things each, depending what other button has been pushed. Every one of these units is operated differently and with a different one in each rig.... I get confused. On some of these "head units" it is very hard to do simple things... like turn it off! The one in my '92 is so bad, I installed an additional toggle switch in the switched power line. Now I can turn it off whenever _I_ want. I do not have to learn all the other operations, it is normally set on USB all the time anyway.

One more last thing, ;) I found a USB only unit on eBay Car Audio Stereo in Dash FM Receiver with MP3 Player USB SD Input Aux Receiver | eBay That does not have a CD to break and LOOKS simpler to operate. I have one, but haven't installed it yet. (to many other projects.)
 

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OBTW: I wouldn't bother installing a radio for the drive home. use some kind of potable unit that you do not have to install. (NOT headphones, even though you see people driving with them all the time!)

Install your new radio when you get home were you can to a better job.

You can also listen to the motor of your new rig... learn how it sounds. ;)

I JUST drove a motorhome with a BRAND NEW motor back from Cali. almost 500 miles and didn't turn on the radio once. If something was going to go bad.... That motor alone cost more than my Sidekicks.... yes all of them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you guys for all your info. I did wait until I got home and installed a new JVC KD-HDR40 CD player. Picked up some 4" 200watt Pioneer speakers for the front. Sounds better.

I am excited about this car it only has 111k orginal miles and was well taken care of. Only issue I have is that the AC only worked on high. Now it does not seem to work at all. The green light on the switch seems not to light up so I think it just may be a fuse or something but I have to look more into it.

Thank you again guys for all your help
 

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I am fairly sure that on a '95 (and earlier) there is a fuse on the AC "control" harness behind the glovebox.
 

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I'm sure there will be other surprises...
but I believe the fan switch must be on for the green lite to illuminate. So don't get to excited before making sure the switch is ON.
The green light on the switch seems not to light up so I think it just may be a fuse or something but I have to look more into it.
The switches do separate and cause what you are seeing (search the forum). I was able to put mine back together using a tywrap.
 

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