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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, got a 1994 Samurai 1.3i. Installed a bass and amp which i took out of my other car when i sold it. All set up right, worked in my clio perfect, now in the sammy it PoP's just once not too loud but it does it. Its only in the bass speaker none of the others. Head unit was also from clio. The weird thing is that it wont keep popping if you turn something off and on quickly, you need to wait 5-6 seconds for it to do it again on the same thing e.g headlights. But it will pop if you do something difference eg brake pedal.

It pops when:
Turn low beams on
Turn high beams on
Flash high beams
sometimes the indicators
Fog light
When you push the break pedal (Break Light)
When you turn radio on (did this in other car, think its normal)
When you start the car up it makes a big one
Both when running and not running

Tried:
going straight to battery negative for earth with meaty wire
disconnecting from the radio ( not the wire that turns the amp on, dont know what its called but i tried another wire so its not this)
putting a big meaty 480Amp battery in
bought a 1 farad capacitor today

Think thats all, iv tried everything i can think of now im stuck lol. I should mention that the front and rear lights have been bojjed by last owner to get through mot.

Thanks
 

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Is your positive lead connected to the battery too? If it's popping whenever you put a load on the system, then it's most likely from the alternator kicking in. Putting a capacitor in line will smooth out the power draw from your amp, but won't smooth out a power surge from your vehicles charging system.

Your amp should have a voltage protection circut that keeps power spikes from passing through to your speakers. If the amp is old or not a high quality amp then that may be failing. You can install a voltage regulator to maintain a constant voltage to the amp but that would probably cost more money than a new amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I looked at the ground for the head unit yesturday which it made no difference to anything once i took it off. Yes the amp does go straight to the battery and Baratacus it does it with the engine turned off and on so it cant be the altonator. What i narrowed it down to is the single wire going from the head unit to the amp (tells it to turn on) its not the auxillary cables that carry the sound as it does it if you disconnect them. Iv yet to try the power to the head unit though, but if it was that wouldnt it do it in all speakers not just the bass?

Thanks for your suggestions
 

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It's quite likely to be "the installation" - in other words - how the cables were routed.

You say bass speaker - are you referring to a subwoofer, are you using separates with a crossover? If there is a subwoofer how is it fed, is there a separate amp for it?

The amp that you mention - which speakers does that feed - does that feed the speaker that pops? Where is the amp mounted? How long are the speaker wires and do they run alongside the vehicle wiring harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its routed the same way as it was in the other car;

Sub < Amp < Battery

The only thing that the amp feeds is the sub and the sub is the only thing popping. Its mounted behind the sub woofer box. The speaker wires are about 0.5 of a meter ish and just go from the amp to the sub so the leftover wire is just curled up. The only wires that go along the car body are the positive which goes along the chassis. The amp feed from the head unit and the wire that turns the amp on which go under the seats. As iv said iv tried using a different wire going from the head unit to the amp. Thankyou for your patience btw
 

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well if it's doing it with the car not running then your right, it's not the alternator or any part of the vehicles charging system. (sorry i didn't see that part in your first post) Sounds like you may have a short to ground in your lighting/wiring harness and it's causing a briefe power flux when you hit that device that may be triggering your amp to "brown out" If it's always popped when you've turned it on then that may be what you're hearing when you hit the lights or the brakes. If the prev owner did a hack job on them to get them working to pass safety then there's a really good chance that therein lies your problem.
 

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Were the speaker leads also coiled in the Clio? Try shortening them and getting rid of the coil and see what happens.

You say the signal cables and the remote switch lead run under the seats - how close are they to the Samurai's wiring? Where is the amp grounded - have you tried running a negative power lead back to the battery? Samurais are notorious for poor grounding, especially in the rear half of the tub.

By the way - the chances of the pop coming down the remore switch lead are slim to nil - assuming an amp from a reputable manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes it was the same in the clio, but i will try it. Yeah tried running straight back to - battery, still nothing. The wires that run under the seats are not next to anything really, they run along quite a few under along the dash. But i can completely disconnect the amp from the head unit bar the remoteswitch and it still does it so its either ground, positive, remote or somewhere else. The sub and amp i have are here Halfords | Mutant Engage Single 12" Bass Pack
 

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Disconnect the remote switch connection at the amp end and wire it to the +12V feed - for testing purposes only - this will bring the amp on and you can now determine whether the transient that causes the pop is coming in on the remote wire and eliminate/verify that as the cause.

The remote should NOT be left wired this way long term, the amp will stay on and drain the battery if the vehicle is left parked for more than a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If i disconnect the remote switch it doesnt turn on... I dont understand you. Your saying disconnect the remote switch and put it in the +12V?
 

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Forgive me,I didnt read every post closely but Have you checked all your grounds and did you install a filter on your power side?Here at work on all the ambulances we have to to install filters on the power and ground side to eliminate spikes from either side.These are installed on Dock pads (like a pc kinda)They were blowing until we installed these filters. Just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No there are no filters, i was referring to what fordem said. Iv tried going straight to - on battery with the amp but not the head unit.
 

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A filter on the positive side may take the poping out??Ours are pretty heavy duty here at work.They cost about $100..
 

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Disconnect the remote switch connection at the amp end and wire it to the +12V feed - for testing purposes only - this will bring the amp on
Is there something that is not clear about that? The remote switch wire is used to turn the amplifier on & off remotely, connect it to the +12V feed and it will turn the amplifier on - if it's grounded or disconnected the amp won't turn on.

It either controls a simple relay (on low powered amplifiers) or a DC-DC converter (on higher powered amplifiers).

Once the amplifier is on, do whatever it is that causes the pop and see if it pops.
 

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"disconnect the remote switch at the amp end and wire IT to the 12v feed"

The "IT" referes to the amp, not the remote switching wire that has been disconnected.

I Know you mean to connect the 12v positive from the battery to the remote connection on the amp, but it could also read like you meant to disconnect the remote lead from the amp and then connect the remote wire from the head unit to a 12v source.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Think i get you, want to make sure though (sorry) You want it like this?

............................+12v.............Ground
Amp: (+12v)......(Remote Switch)...(Ground)

I dont want to go jump into something like this as amps are pretty delicate.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It may also be helpful for you to know that it does it much worse when they radio is on and i start the car up. This is starting to p*** me off tbh :(
 

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does it still do it when you wire a 12v supply to the amps switching terminal, so that the amp is constant on instead of being switched by the head unit?
 
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