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Discussion Starter #1
First, I have done a TON of searching and no luck on my specific question.WEBER 32/36 DGEV I want to run my current weber and 1.3 intake setup on my 1.6 8v.
Im a noob and am swapping a 1.6 8v into my salmi. I have the redline webber kit for the samurai. Will the jetting be okay to just swap it over and then tune the idle and air/fuel mixture screws? Or do I need to get different jets? I don't exactly know what jets are in it (the ones that came in the kit). It hesitates currently (In the 1.3) when I dump the throttle in 1st and 2nd, but then evens out once I shift into 3rd. I hear of people swapping these over with their 1.3 intake to 1.6's, but does the 1.3 jetting run too lean for the 1.6 application.
What is a SAFE jetting to run for the 1.6 so it doesn't detonate?
If you are currently are running this setup, what jets do you have? I am also going to port the intake to match my intake gasket.
 

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I can't help with the jetting, maybe Redline can advise you. When I did my original 8V conversion I used a 1.3 intake, I cut the 1.3 gasket to suit the ports on the 1.6 head and then flowed the 1.3 manifold to suit; the holes in the 1.6 gasket were larger than the ports.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you took your 1.3 intake AND CARB off of a running 1.3, then swapped it onto your 1.6, WITHOUT changing any jetting? And it ran fine?
 

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I had the same setup as Rhino until recently.

Unfortunately, the carb was professionally set up for the 1.6 so I never had to mess with the jetting. At this point, the folks at redline are your best source for 1.6 8-valve jetting information.

The other item you need to watch out for are vacuum leaks. When installed, you should have only one vacuum hose installed - running from the distributor advance back to one of the vacuum ports in the center of the manifold or on the carb body itself. All other vacuum ports on the intake manifold should be plugged with a brass bolt and/or JB Weld (or both). Steel bolts will corrode and leak air after prolonged heating and cooling. Small rubber caps may be cheap, but they won't last long.

i hope that this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What about the vacuum line for the brake?
I'm pretty sure there is a line that goes to the brakes because aren't they vacuum operated?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
do any of you guys know how to get ahold of Sarge? Right now I would be willing to just send my intake and carb to him and be done with it. Thanks for that link Rhinoman, but they are all talking about jetting for 1.3 engines. I have mine set up for a 1.3 now, but need the jetting for a 1.6.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey guys. So I am doing the swap right now. I have a 1.6 8v and am using the sammy intake and weber carb. Also going to use the 1.3 distributor. Do you guys know if there is any special way to set the timing of the engine? Or do I just time it to the 1.6 factory specs?
 

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I set the timing to the 1.6 base timing, it will go forward a few degrees if you are using 95 Octane RON or above but if you have an emissions test to pass the base setting is the best start point.
I don't know if Sarge is still around the Zuk forums, he gave up the carb work a good few years ago because of ill health. There was a mega-thread on jetting the Weber carb on off-road.com, it ran to 120 pages or so! it was in the Toyota section but there was also stuff in there about jetting for a Suzuki.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sweet Deal Rhinoman. I wasn't planing on running any serious octane or anything, but I guess I can. Thanks for the lead on that link.
 

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95 RON is the lowest grade petrol that we get. I had a look for the thread, unfortunately it seems like it was lost in a server move sometime over the last couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I was just looking for it. we get 87 over here in the states. I'm sure it will work fine because the compression won't be changing any.
 

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RON is the 'Research Octane Number', from memory 87 MON is roughly equivalent to 92 RON.
 

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Ours is "minimum" octane rating. we have 87, 93, and I think 97
Does it say that on the pump? I hear conflicting information. Chevron have this to say:

Generally, three grades of unleaded gasoline with different AKIs are available in the U.S.:
regular, midgrade, and premium. At sea level, the posted AKI for regular grade is usually 87;
for midgrade, 89. The AKI of premium grade varies, ranging from 91 to 94.
The posted AKIs are lower in the Rocky Mountain states. Altitude gasolines have historically
provided the same antiknock performance as higher-AKI gasolines at sea level. The
octane requirement of older-model engines decreases as air pressure (barometric pressure)
decreases. Barometric pressure is lower at higher elevations.
AKI is calculated as the average of RON and MON. that information was from here:
http://www.chevron.com/documents/pdf/MotorGasTechReview.pdf

According to Wikipedia:

RON 91–92 = MON 82–83 = AKI 87. The 96 Tracker FSM specifies an AKI of 87 as the minimum requirement.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I guess that we do start at 83, then go up from there. IDK, I always hit the high octane one as I usually drive my bike, which runs higher compression. Then I never even think about it with the sammy because it has such a small tank it makes no difference. Plus, with the new oil shale we have here, prices have dropped down below $2/gal for regular. So I think the price difference is negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Also, just got the motor completely together and she fires up well. I have a low pressure fuel pump on a toggle switch with a jeep filter that allows me to still run a return line. I went to put my spark plugs in last minute and was trying to screw one of them upside down because it is dark now. Then I realized that the little cap that screws into the spark plug had fallen off into the cylinder!!!!!!!!!!! If its not one thing its another. Now I need to figure out how to get that out, hopefully WITHOUT pulling the head.
 
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