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Looking for some opinions and knowledge. I just bought a 1986 Suzuki Samurai JX SE. It currently has a Weber Carb and runs fantastic; however it failed emissions. Being that all the emissions control from the stock carb have been disconnected this is understandable. Is there any benefit to putting the stock carb back on other than emissions? I am of the understanding that the weber carb is actually an upgrade, is that true? I live in AZ and have a work around option for emissions if necessary, but I am just trying to understand if there is any benefit to going back to stock on the carb? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

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If the Weber is jetted correctly and mounted correctly, they can be an improvement on the Hitachi. In saying that,a lot of people dont understand how the Hitachi is controlled and the electronic controls were pretty primitive but did work for emissions, and when set correctly are a good wee carb.

Biggest thing with the weber is mounting it so it doesnt flood going up hills if doing steep offroad stuff. You can jet them for emissions but it can be tricky.

Webers simpler, and bits are easy to come by. Personally I'd be using a 3k or 4k Toyota Corolla carb and jetting it accordingly
 

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If the Weber is jetted correctly and mounted correctly, they can be an improvement on the Hitachi. In saying that,a lot of people dont understand how the Hitachi is controlled and the electronic controls were pretty primitive but did work for emissions, and when set correctly are a good wee carb.

Biggest thing with the weber is mounting it so it doesnt flood going up hills if doing steep offroad stuff. You can jet them for emissions but it can be tricky.

Webers simpler, and bits are easy to come by. Personally I'd be using a 3k or 4k Toyota Corolla carb and jetting it accordingly
Thanks for the feedback. It is running so well with the weber I hate to mess with it. Is there some documentation you can direct me to on the Toyota carbs you mention? They won't be controlled like the Hitachi either though right?
 

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The early ones weren't controlled. They still do the same thing, mix fuel and air in the correct ratios, fitting a Toyota one wont help with the emission compliance I'm afraid as it's still a basic carb, but I find them a bit more stable than a Weber

Its about 100 for the 3k adapter kit, and carbs are available online, google 3k Toyota carb and you will find heaps out there and videos and instructions for fitting to a sami.
 

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Since you have a work around for emissions, and the weber is working well for you, I would suggest you use the emissions work around - one of the challenges with the the weber (other than the issue of flooding on an incline (for which there is a fix), is that it is almost infinitely adjustable (by way of changing gets, emulsion tubes, etc.), that getting it set correctly can be difficult, time consuming AND expensive - this is the reason that the Toyota carbs are commonly used, there is less to tweak, less to get wrong and less to confuse you

Since what you have works - why spend more on a solution that won't change anything.

To compare the weber to the Hitachi - the Hitachi has electronic feedback which so to speak "fine tunes" the mixture using a solenoid which is constantly moving and which wears out, it also has a primitive ECU which has also been know to give trouble - it's really "step one" on the path from the old style carburetor to fuel injection, you could try refitting yours, since you have it, but at this point you don't know a) if the carb is complete and working, b) if the ECU is working, or even in the car and you'll still need to work your way through the various vacuum lines & fittings to make sure everything is in place and working, taking us back to...

Since what you have works - why spend more on a solution that won't change anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Since you have a work around for emissions, and the weber is working well for you, I would suggest you use the emissions work around - one of the challenges with the the weber (other than the issue of flooding on an incline (for which there is a fix), is that it is almost infinitely adjustable (by way of changing gets, emulsion tubes, etc.), that getting it set correctly can be difficult, time consuming AND expensive - this is the reason that the Toyota carbs are commonly used, there is less to tweak, less to get wrong and less to confuse you

Since what you have works - why spend more on a solution that won't change anything.

To compare the weber to the Hitachi - the Hitachi has electronic feedback which so to speak "fine tunes" the mixture using a solenoid which is constantly moving and which wears out, it also has a primitive ECU which has also been know to give trouble - it's really "step one" on the path from the old style carburetor to fuel injection, you could try refitting yours, since you have it, but at this point you don't know a) if the carb is complete and working, b) if the ECU is working, or even in the car and you'll still need to work your way through the various vacuum lines & fittings to make sure everything is in place and working, taking us back to...

Since what you have works - why spend more on a solution that won't change anything.
Agreed! Thank you for your feedback. The ECU is still in the car, I found it in my digging. What is the fix for the Weber flooding issue. Can you direct me to a link or website.
 

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Plenty of topics on the web re this flooding issue.
a lot specifically for the samurai engines.
If it's not flooding when going uphill then I wouldn't panic about it. If it is, theres several fixes, one is to turn the carb around and mount it so it floids going downhill, another is to block the existing flat bowl vent and drill another vent.
 

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Plenty of topics on the web re this flooding issue.
a lot specifically for the samurai engines.
If it's not flooding when going uphill then I wouldn't panic about it. If it is, theres several fixes, one is to turn the carb around and mount it so it floids going downhill, another is to block the existing flat bowl vent and drill another vent.
Okay, Haven't had it out wheeling yet. Still getting everything fixed up.
 

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You may find it's fine and has no issues. Wait till you get it out in the rough stuff and worry about it if it happens. If it's been fitted correctly it might not have an issue. Can you post a pic showing how its mounted ( overall view) and one showing where the throttle cable is relative to the valve cover please?
 

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Ooooh looks like someone has set that up properly and used a properly designed adapter. You might have a good one there, evidence of this is the almost compliant emissions.

See that hose by the fuel inlet sitting on that hose clip, (first pic) get something in there to separate them before that vibrates thru the insulation and into the hose.
 

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Ooooh looks like someone has set that up properly and used a properly designed adapter. You might have a good one there, evidence of this is the almost compliant emissions.

See that hose by the fuel inlet sitting on that hose clip, (first pic) get something in there to separate them before that vibrates thru the insulation and into the hose.
Yeah, the guy I bought it from, got it from the guy who runs the Wounded Warriors Hunting organization. He had to get rid of it because a guy with a prosthetic leg couldn't fit in it. So, I think it has been set up right.
 

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Here's hoping, you might gave a good 'un
 
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