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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The hayes manual shows a step of loosening the valve adjustment screw before removing the timing belt. Im wondering what the reason for this is? If I am just replacing the belt and no pulleys or seals is this step required?

Just replaced a leaky rad, now the pump is leaking from the bottom weep hole.

'89 tracker 8v
 

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I think they figure you might as well do it all at once, but I never saw the need to. If I want to set the valve lash then I'll do it later and it does not involve removing the timing belt as long as it is still in time.

Just before removing the timing belt, turn the crank to line up both timing gears with their marks (one cast into the block above the lower gear, one indented into the metal shroud above the upper gear). Then reinstall the belt the same way as it was, making sure that after it is tensioned and locked down with its little spring, and rotated clockwise two rotations, both marks still line up.

Remember that on your new water pump you might have to use the pulley studs from the old one, so don't go scrap it or turn it in for a core until you're done.
 

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You are supposed to loosen the valve adjusters so that the tension of the cam does not interfere with the tensioner for the timing belt. Loosening the valve adjusters allows for free rotation of the camshaft. Your belt is tensioned by the tensioner, and if the camshaft can't move freely, the tensioner will not be able to tension the belt properly. By the way, there is no need to remove the center crank pulley bolt when doing the timing belt, but this will be a good time to check that the torque of this bolt is 94 ft/lbs, to prevent problems later.
You also may want to dump the Haynes as it has tons of misinformation. If you are doing your t-belt, look up the info in the forum, if you don't have an FSM. I believe Haynes gives some wrong information for this procedure.
 

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... Just before removing the timing belt, turn the crank to line up both timing gears with their marks (one cast into the block above the lower gear, one indented into the metal shroud above the upper gear). Then reinstall....
Take lots of pictures! digital pictures are CHEAP and then, even I can put it back together! :rolleyes:

x2 on dumping the after market manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That makes sense about loosening the rockers, I was hoping to just loosen the tensioner and slip the new one on without rotating anything. I'm sure it will make more sense once I get into it.

May as well do as many gaskets as I can get to. It looks like a pan leak but it's behind the cover? So hard to tell, waiting on some degreaser with my parts, closest parts store is 500kms away. Time to tear into her again, at least I got to play in the snow yesterday...

I have a .pdf of the fsm, somewhere...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Water pump shaft has a bit of play and the impellers are badly corroded. Lots of rad sealer built up in the water jackets from last owner. Lovely silicone fix on the dipstick tube, bad silicone job on front of oil pan. And the most awesome part was the hex crank bolts which only two of 5 came easy, the rest were rounded out already so out came the rad and grille (again) to make room for the drill. Drilled the head off, and was able to remove the rest of the bolt from the crank gear thingamabob with my fingers. Waiting for parts.
 

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Congrats thus far! Sounds like fun. ;)
 

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Previous owners can be wonderfully creative people....;)
 
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