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water pump help PLEASE

2314 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  mtnbowhunter
just changing the tensioner and water pump on my 2000 2.5 v6 GV
when i removed the water pump there was sealant on both inner (cylinder block) and outer (front cover) holes and on the water pump orings
for the life of me i can not fathom the reason of putting sealant on the orings as there are no flanges to seal up and i thought that is what the orings are supposed to do???
i am doing this from info and videos on suzuki forums and DO NOT have a shop manual.

is there anything in the shop manual about putting sealant on these holes / orings????

my thoughts are someone changed out the water pump and the mechanic put the sealant on?

your help on this please!
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also on a side note
i changing out the main cam chain tensioner and there was / is no gasket between it and the engine block, is that normal???
Typically, sealant AND o rings are not used together. I think as you do that someone has been in there before.

You can get the two volume SG series Service Manuals via the top FAQ thread for your engine. ;)
Volume two:

"For H25 engine
1) Install new O-rings (3) to water pump (1).
2) Install water pump to cylinder block.
Tightening Torque
Water pump bolt (H25 engine) (a): 27 N.m (2.7 kg-m, 19.5 lb-ft)
3) Install timing chain cover. Refer to Section 6A2.
4) Install oil pan, front differential housing, P/S system, cooling
system, intake manifold with throttle body and other parts.
5) Refill cooling system with coolant, front differential with gear oil,
P/S system with specified fluid and engine with engine oil.
6) Check wheel alignment referring to Section 3A.
7) Verify that there is no fuel leakage, water leakage and oil leakage
at each connection.
8) Connect negative (–) cable at battery."

The manual has accompanying diagrams as well.
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i can not fathom the reason of putting sealant on the orings
no gasket between it and the engine block, is that normal?
I believe you are correct on both counts.
Gas Auto part Machine Metal Nickel

There is no call for O-ring sealant in the factroy service manual.

Font Auto part Engineering Line art Event

I don't recall a gasket on the tensioner when I changed the water pump on my V6 either.
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Speaking of water pumps and timing chains when do you change them? Pulling my motor to fix leaking oil pans. Has 101,000 miles. Original owner & about 20,000 miles were done being towed 4 flat behind RV. 2001 2.5 V6 4wd.

mid I do need to do it what brand water pump should I use or is there a complete kit with timing chains & pump?
Pulling my motor to fix leaking oil pans
Tire Automotive tire Gear Wheel Gas

If you have the engine out and you are removing the upper and lower oil pans, remove the lower crankcase and replace this O-ring. If it's not leaking now it will.
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On an H25a V6 neither the water pump nor the timing chains have a "best before" date, you would not normally touch either one unless you had good reason to, that said, if you have the engine out, you might as well do them, because a lot of the work involved in the replacement is the labor to simply get access.

Any reputable brand of pump & chains is suitable, see what RockAuto has available.
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is there anything in the shop manual about putting sealant on these holes / orings????
Use new o rings and don't put any sealant on them. The new water pump should have new o rings, and if it doesn't, return it.

Clean the timing cover and apply a light coat of silicone grease to the o rings and their mating surfaces. I've had 0 leaks.

I don't remember a gasket under the #1 tensioner. An exploded parts diagram should give you your answer.
The new water pump should have new o rings
Font Parallel Circle Pattern Symmetry

The upper two O-rings came with the water pump. The lower two came with the Fel-Pro (CS26386) gasket set for the oil pans.

Font Circle Number Document Typesetting

The parts description for the Fel-Pro set is somewhat misleading.

Product Font Screenshot Audio equipment Circle

The "3 oil cooler O-rings" are really two for the oil pick-up pipe and one for the lower crankcase.
The two large O-rings are inner and outer water pump O-rings.
One of the metal washers fits the drain plug. I don't know what the other washer is for. They are different sizes.
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thanks for all the great info
i was extemely carefull and somewhat reluctant to do this job as we are wintering in our rv down in baja mexico and if i wrecked or needed anything i could have been a problem
i pulled the front cover off without removing the intake or valve covers, just did it as shown in those 5 utube videos
it is a pita job, that pass side rear inside valve cover nut is a b---- to get off, had i of had access to a welder i would have welded up 1/4 in extension to a cut off 6pt box end, but having said that the valve covers must have been removed before and the little 10mm nuts were very tight, i had to use a very sharp chisel and cut that nut off, got real lucky on that as the nuts a very soft. i did this part first before taking out the rad,etc as i anticipated issues as he made it look way to easy in those videos, and if i could not get those nuts off i was just going to leave it until i had a welder available. as it was i had to cut up and bend 2 different styles of 10mm box ends
the clue to it being apart before was the sealant put on the water pump orings, i do not know what they were doing in there, maybe they had changed the pump, tensioner or??
the tensioner looked to be in perfect shape, no play and the ratchet and teeth were in great shape.
i had bought an ITM tensioner, maybe stay away from that brand as the little metal ratchet on it can not be pressed down to push the tensioner back in, i found this out the hard way when the little plastic retaining pin popped out when i was installing the tensioner, big problem, had to take the ratchet out of the new one, push the tensioner back in and reasemble. and that is tricky.
one thing i should mention is i made a wire gauge so i could set the new tensioner in with the tensioner protruding the same as the old one, and BE SURE not to turn the engine backwards and put slack in the cam chain after intalling that tensioner or it will extend to far and the chain will be way to tight!!
BUT the oil pump chain was very loose and i think that was likely where my noise was coming from!!!
quiet now!
all the bolts cam out easily including pwr steering and alt., cover and valve covers cam loose easily iguess because it had been apart before, so far no leaks but will see
i bought it with about 80,ooo miles on it and it now has about 110, 000.
hard to guess why they would have been working on the water pump unless that is not the original engine in the 2000GV, is there anyway to match engine serial numbers(if they exist) to the chassis???
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is there anyway to match engine serial numbers(if they exist) to the chassis???
If you give me the VIN, I should be able to get you the engine number it left the factory with, and also tell you where on the engine you should be able to find it.
fordem, i appreciate that offer and have sent you a PM
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