Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just installed a CS130 alt using the 3 wire hookup and now have a solid 14.6v at ALL rpms under the hood but back in the cab I have 13.2-13.8v.

Everything inside works but I'm adding some electronics and would like to tap into some of that 14.6v keyed instead of hot all the time. I cant see anywhere to hook in to it already keyed and would like to avoid having to hang another relay.

I'm unable to find the voltage drop also, been probing around with a voltmeter for a while and it just seems like anything on the inside of the firewall is going to be down a volt or so and will fluctuate according to lights/fan etc loads, very much unlike the rock solid 14.6 at the battery.

Any ideas on how to restore proper voltage inside without remote sensing into the cab (I think that would have me running nearly 16v at the battery)? It is currently remote sensed at the battery. I was looking for a HOT lead that goes in to supply all the goodies but nothing is really clear. I would love to see it at 14v or better inside and without all the fluctuation that is NOT present at the battery. All the grounds test great, any thoughts would be great.

Edit: there are some heavier gauge wires under the pass side that are NOT keyed and they have the same voltage that the battery does, seems like keyed voltage is the problem throughout.



Thanks!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,453 Posts
If the keyed voltages are ALL lower than the battery voltage - ask yourself what separates the two - and the answer is the ignition switch.

Before you condemn it though - measure the voltages directly on the back of the switch barrel - it could just as easily be one of the connectors.

Also you could consider mounting a relay and having the ignition switch control the relay, and the relay switching the current.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I know the switch switches it but is there not a relay or something or does the full current go through the ign switch?

I have been thinking about doing a relay but would of course prefer to correct the issue. I'll be using a pair of aftermarket marine fuse boxes for additional equipment so maybe a nice stout high amp relay would be proper.

I'll get out there and check the back of the switch to see if thats where the voltage drop is, if there is no relay it would make perfect sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Vehicle running voltages:

14.6 battery
14.2 at all 3 live terminals back of ign switch
14.5 at the large gauge wires under pass side of dash.
12.8-13.8 depending on load, emphasizing that load does effect voltage inside but not at the charging system.

Do these vehicles have some sort of voltage regulation behind the dash somewhere?

I'm thinking a relay to go from the HOT fusebox under the hood that is 0.1v lower than charging sys. I have some 40a relays left.

Can I use two relays in parallel to allow them to share the load?
Where would be a good place to tap in with the fresh voltage, fuse box, other?

Sorry for all the questions but the finer art form of auto electrical is something I'm still trying to become more fluent in.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,453 Posts
Where exactly are you measuring the 12.8~13.8 volts? Meter negative connected to what? Meter positive connected to what?

What are the "large gauge wires" under the passenger side of the dash?

The only voltage regulator is internal to the alternator, and although paralleled relays will share the load I would not recommend it, there is no way to ensure equal current sharing and sooner or later you're going to end up burning both relays in quick succession.

Where you tap in depends on what you're trying to achieve.

Auto electricals are very simple, with the basic rule being assume NOTHING.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks Fordem for humoring my persistent stupid questions. I tend to ask when searches come up inconclusive because I see Suzuki vehicles are wired unlike anything I have ever done before.

the lower voltages are from a wiring junction I tapped into to power my aftermarket gauges, it disappears into the harness. All voltages measured with the gnd lead at battery, the change was inconsequential when grounded inside. The PO had some of the wiring hacked up with elec tape, zip ties and wire nuts. I filled a 5 gal bucket with all the redundant crap I pruned out so this wiring harness was pretty far from a virgin when I started. This was a very badly molested vehicle, wiring was one of the main victims. I have spent countless hours transforming it into a decent reliable vehicle with proper workmanship. The 16v conversion was NOT wired professionally so I will have some neatening to do there after the AC is wired up. I can go back and prune out all the pigtails and crap that I wont need.

With the knowledge that there is no regulator inside I will proceed (I have seen instrumentation regulators in other vehicles).

I have to go into town to fetch a couple bits for my headless stereo, I think I will just get another single relay and a junction to deal decent keyed voltage to where I need it rather than relying on the OEM wiring to do more than it was supposed to do. I need to get my headless stereo installed today.

Thanks!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,453 Posts
Just my opinion, but, Suzuki vehicles are wired exactly like many other Japanese vehicles - the big difference if you're not accustomed to Japanese vehicles is the headlight wiring.

You'll need to find out where that "wiring junction" connects into the main power - presumably it is down stream from the ignition switch and via a fuse somewhere - find the fuse panel, find the feed from the ignition switch to the panel and see what voltage you get there, find the fuse that feeds your junction and see what voltage you get there, and remember the voltage on the two sides of a connection, are not necessarily the same - they should be - but if you have a bad connection, and current flowing through that connection, you'll have a drop in voltage.

Remember I said assume NOTHING - in some cases it is necessary to measure the voltage at both ends of a piece of wire - I've seen wires corrode and fail inside the insulation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I have not had to do much wiring on Japanese built cars (there maybe a lesson in there). All that I have taken from the air cooled VWs didnt help me much here either, and of course domestic cars make up most of my electrical experience. I have recently given up on domestic cars and bikes altogether.

I'm getting different readings everywhere I put the voltmeter. The fuses seem to be pretty consistent from hot side to fused side. Everything inside works and works well even with sketchy voltage so I'm beginning to think that it maybe a cumulative effect of several well aged junctions and wires. Somewhat frustrating at this point.

Something might be obvious once I start pruning out more redundant wiring at a later date but for now I think a relay and some unadulterated voltage would be proper for the added equipment and sensitive electronics. I do thank you for the help as I'm sure I will revisit this issue later on when I lean out the electrical system.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top