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Hi all,
hoping someone on this forum can point me in the right direction - looking for engine information for a Suzi G16A, particularly; cylinder head bolt torque, cam cap bolt torque, valve clearances (SOHC motor) and a quick how-to on correctly setting the cam timing. (A linkk to a downloadable DPF of the service manual would be very much appreciated). Car was bought as a basket case with a cracked cylinder head which I now learn is a very common fault. Any suggestions to preventing a reoccurance would be gratefully accepted also
TIA
Peter
 

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sorry to hear about the cracked head.

judging from the code, you must have the 8 valve engine, i have the 16valve, so its a bit different, short of a shop manual, try www.autozone.com and go to repair, they should have the torque and instructions.

hope this helps,

94box.
 

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manual for g16a

poster here is reviving a 5 year old thread ! so is not a hijacker, he is reviving the "life of the living dead". LOL? (kickfix)


Hi, I am seraching for g16a engine manual. Could you please send to me the copy you have. I really need that.
Your can even direct me where to get it.



sorry to hear about the cracked head.

judging from the code, you must have the 8 valve engine, i have the 16valve, so its a bit different, short of a shop manual, try AutoZone Auto Parts Stores | Get In The Zone! | AutoZone.com and go to repair, they should have the torque and instructions.

hope this helps,

94box.
 

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You need to advise exactly what car you have, year, tranny, etc., plus what country you are in. Normally 16a means the 8v engine, but there apparently are times/places when it doesn't. In order for you to get the right info, you need to put in much more detail here.
 

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Hi, these are the details
Escudo Nomade 5 door
year of manufacture:1993
Vehicle type: E-TD01W
Engine: G16A 326599
Engine capacity: 1590cc (normally called 1.6L, I hope)
Four cylinders inline
16 valve
Automatic transmission.
It is about 150,000 km now.
I am living in a country called TANZANIA (Where mount kilimanjaro is) and the car was imported from Japan (used vehicle).
I did a 2500km trip one month ago and after that I started hearing some funny noices from inside the engine. The noise can be heard from a distance especially when the car is started from cold and left idling. The noise is becoming louder and louder.
I happened to work for caterpiler dealership as service engineer, doing big diesel engines, transmission, wheel stations etc. The noice from my engine just annoys me and I believe it needs an overhaul.

Thanky you very much for your response.






You need to advise exactly what car you have, year, tranny, etc., plus what country you are in. Normally 16a means the 8v engine, but there apparently are times/places when it doesn't. In order for you to get the right info, you need to put in much more detail here.
 

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Are you and Pete the same poster? Two threads for the 16a, is this both for the same car?
 

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Aside from the FSM for your car, some very good information here on this site:
The KickFix Repair Pages, for Sidekicks and Trackers
However, you may want to post what this 'annoying' noise is, as it may be something that does not require an engine overhaul, no? If you give details about the noise, how the car is running, history, etc., there are some great experts here that are very good at diagnosing.
 

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Hi,
The noise is like something is loose hiting/knocking inside engine. The noice do not come from the head it is clearly in the block. Easily noticed when the engine is started from cold. The noise diminishes a bit when the engine has reached its operating temp (by just looking at the coolant temp arrow normal point). I have not noticed any decrease in power. No missfiring. Two years a go I replaced the fuel injectors after the engine developed missfiring and have been running fine since then.
I always service the car my self.
Again, thanks BEX
 

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if in fact the rattle is inside the motor ( surely id dont know but could find it fast, doing above comments)
internal motor noise only cold, can be common piston slap. (never bearings)

if that is all true, above.
the cure for slap, is DO NOTHING. many motors can slap for 100k more miles.

exception
slap due to piston cracks, rare on suz. (bore scope time !)

most piston SLAP is caused by OVERHEATING THE MOTOR , damaging the piston,
ie: shrinkage or distorting its shape.


more , you can kill each cylinder while the noise is happening to find which cylinder it is ?
2 ways
grounding a spark plug or pulling an injector.

i like the latter.

opening a spark plug is bad. it allows the HV to go way too high and can flash over with destructive results to the humans near and ECU / Igniter,or CMP.

if you must kill spark on EFI , ground it.

the damage can later happen (HV flash over) and fail, this is called by techs, the "walking wounded". like a half broken leg , one more step and boom.
called partial destructive break down by my ex boss. (his job is that,a failure analysis eng.)

hope all that helps. if unclear ask.
 

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think of the motor as a drum
an echo chamber

anything hitting the drum , makes a simular sound.

eg loose A/T coupling. exh mount. , loose alternator.
eg:
i get motor with noise at idle cold
what do i do.?
keep motor cold (resting it now...)

i drop all belts , that is right all belts.
i start it, and am listening now for 30 seconds, done. OFF
see?
it wont overheat in 30 seconds. and you just proved something.
 

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did you know the front 17mm crank damper bolt is never torqued to 94ft/lbs (sure seems so here but we are NG site) NG= nogood
as the 15year old TSB damand it to be !
and since nobody reads it , the damper bangs away . wrecking he key ,etc.
 

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he is a hijacker and started a new post
that i my guess.

Ngasi , you need to say if this is your post with 2 login names.
i dought it.
 

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This post started years ago, and Ngasi picked up on it, searching for the 16a engine, probably. I think forum should forget this post, and just post on his new one. Or choose one or the other. All duplicate info and answers.
 

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Hi,
I have downloaded the manual from the site you showed me.
I will start the inspection soon and let you know the progress.
Regards,
 

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on your other post, show the body tag data line on the last line that is not japanese.!
so i can see what TYPE motor your car has.
 
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