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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a 1995 G16B 16V 3-door Vitara which ran pretty good before this episode. The head gasket was leaking so I decided to replace it and do the work by myself, apparently a mistake.

I got the head out, replaced the gasket, put everything back together, crossed my fingers and tried to start it. I'm sure that the cam timing was correct, and pretty sure I have the distributor also adjusted correctly. Well, it started but it only ran very poorly and probably on three cylinders.

I disassembled the crank pulley again to check that everything were correct down there. Also checked the ignition timing once again. After this I decided to start it again just quickly with water pump disabled because I just disassembled everything to clear some room down there, apparently another mistake. Car started, but after maybe 10 seconds, I heard kind of squeaking sound from the engine and it died, and it was stuck.

I'm an idiot because I tried to run it without the coolant circulation, but I thought I can run it maybe 10 seconds without making any damage.

Next day I tried to rotate the engine with tool from crankshaft, it rotated again. I took off the valve cover and checked that everything is moving correctly there and it seems that there's no problem.

Once again I set everything up and tried to start. The car started, again it was only running with three cylinders probably. Now the coolant is circulating on engine but again after maybe 10 seconds I heard the same squeaking sound and engine died and it's stuck again.

Now I don't quite know what to do next, have I ruined the cylinder walls or could it be something bit lesser damage? Should I take the head off again and visually check the cylinders or is there easier way?

I have a compression gauge which can measure the pressure from spark plug hole. What kind of a reading should I get from cold engine hand cranked from the crank pulley?

Sorry about the wall of text and I hope you understand me, English is not my native language.
 

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I doubt that you overheated it causing the problem.

Did you have oil pressure during the run time?:huh: That would be my major concern.

Smoke from the exhaust?

Yes. Compression test next. Pressures should be in the 150 or greater PSI area, depending on battery state, engine wear, wide open throttle plate, but without the engine being warm for the test. Of course, all spark plugs removed. You are looking for uncharacteristically low pressures in one or two cylinders at this point, verses trying to achieve a single high number across the board. That will tell the story.

You may have the valve timing off, hitting an open valve with a piston top. :(

The head will probably need to come back off.

When doing the compression test, be observant of coolant in the cylinder from a leak. That will lock the engine up as well, particularly if you didn't find the cause of the original head leak, or failed to have the head "pressure tested".

What was the condition of the crank balancer / pulley and adjoining crank snout fit-up?

And welcome aboard! Wish that it was under better circumstances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the answer! I'm going to do compression test maybe tomorrow.

One thing crossed my mind when googling related stuff just now. There's a possibility that I have put the head gasket wrong way and it's blocking the oil flow to cam shaft. And the cam shaft is stuck because of the lack of lubrication. Can I check this somehow without taking the head off?
 

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One thing crossed my mind when googling related stuff just now. There's a possibility that I have put the head gasket wrong way and it's blocking the oil flow to cam shaft. And the cam shaft is stuck because of the lack of lubrication. Can I check this somehow without taking the head off?
That would be my guess, its relatively common. You can remove the rocker cover and check if there is any oil around the camshaft.
 

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... Car started, but after maybe 10 seconds, I heard kind of squeaking sound from the engine and it died, and it was stuck. ...

... but again after maybe 10 seconds I heard the same squeaking sound and engine died and it's stuck again. ...
By "stuck" I assume you mean that the crank has stopped and you can not turn it... even by the big bolt on the crank?

Maybe you have a cylinder getting hydro locked.

See: Hydrolock - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Maybe...
 

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More likely the cam seizing from lack of lube...

.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, I think first I'm going to take the spark plugs out and try to crank it -> if it's still seized the hydrolocking is ruled out?

If I take the timing belt off and try to gently rotate the engine manually from crank bolt with socket, is it possible to get damage done by hitting the pistons on valves?

This would limit the problem to cam shaft. If it rotates freely with timing belt off, the cam is stuck.

And if I have to take the head out once again, can I use the head gasket and bolts which are basically brand new or should I buy new bolts and gasket everytime the head is disassembled?
 

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OK, I think first I'm going to take the spark plugs out and try to crank it -> if it's still seized the hydrolocking is ruled out?
Yes.

If I take the timing belt off and try to gently rotate the engine manually from crank bolt with socket, is it possible to get damage done by hitting the pistons on valves?
YES!

And if I have to take the head out once again, can I use the head gasket and bolts which are basically brand new or should I buy new bolts and gasket everytime the head is disassembled?
At a minimum, a new head gasket.
 

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As Rhino says, it is very common to put the headgasket on incorrectly, so that you get no lubrication in the engine. You need to check this (and correct it).


If your headbolts were new for your current 'repair' then it's ok to use them. While many people re-use the originals, it normally is not a good idea.
See this post, particularly #7, about priming the engine before you actually start it. You must confirm oil delivery, etc, first:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...epairing-blown-head-gasket-need-opinions.html

or post 22 here:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...tracker/34390-94-tracker-head-problems-3.html
 

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I don't think that 10 seconds (if factually reported) of cold engine idling will seize the cam due to lack of lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Some update again...

I unbolted the camshaft bearing upper halves, and the engine immediately unseized so I think it's pretty obvious it was the cam seizing.

I'm going to manually lubricate the camshaft a bit and then rotate the engine with starter motor rocker cover still off to see is there any oil flowing to upstairs.
 

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Are the bearing surfaces galled??

There is a good bet the HG is installed incorrectly....

..... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah the bearings/head/camshaft's trashed so I'm going to need a new head. Well maybe it's cheaper than to replace the whole engine. I have to convince myself that after the gasket replacement the head would've been still leaking and the conclusion would've been the same as now ;)

I posted some pictures of bearings but there seems to be a delay when using img-tags, here's a link to same picture imgur: the simple image sharer
 

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Yikes! :eek:

THAT is some severe wiping. :(

 

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Yeah the bearings/head/camshaft's trashed so I'm going to need a new head. Well maybe it's cheaper than to replace the whole engine. I have to convince myself that after the gasket replacement the head would've been still leaking and the conclusion would've been the same as now ;)

I posted some pictures of bearings but there seems to be a delay when using img-tags, here's a link to same picture imgur: the simple image sharer
Yes! That is exactly what I envisioned when you said you heard a squeaking....

Sad for the mishap, but you now have an experience to grow on...

... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I searched a second hand head and found actually a whole engine very reasonable price. Maybe even suspiciously cheap but there's not too many for sale so maybe I have to check this out.

It's G16B 16V also but are all of these compatible or is there something I should check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The engine I mentioned previous post is from '92 Vitara so should it fit to '95? It's been standing on garage 3 years but ran before that correctly. This really is pig in a poke kind of thing though because it's already lifted from the car so no testing possibility...

Is there difference on engines between 2-door and 4-door Vitaras?

I asked the VIN number and some pictures for further research of the compatibility
 

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If they are both Vitara 16V 1.6 engines then they will interchange.
 
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