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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

New to suzi cars and am looking at a grand vitara diesel 08 or 09.

I'm starting my research and I'm finding a lot of bad reports about it.

Surely there has to be some good ones out there?

Any info will be great

Cheers
 

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Hi Turbobus and welcome.

Probably very few diesels out there running a DPF that you’re not going to find some bad experiences with, particularly anyone not running a lot of highway kms.

DMF equipped vehicles also seem to cop a pretty bad wrap but the years you’re looking at will predate the DMF so shouldn’t be any drive train issues (unless abused).

Kept completely original and driven on nothing harder than forestry trails, there’s nothing I’ve come across yet in the design that leads me to believe the GV Diesel would be any less reliable than similarly spec’d vehicles from other manufacturers. Other than a warranty replaced failed power steering pump (worked too hard in soft sand on SA beaches) and a somewhat overheated DMF (my fault for the same reason but still functional 2 years later) any other issues I’ve had were associated with mods and eventually sorted. I’m sitting on about 52,000kms currently.

In its standard form, other than a box chassis integrated into the body (not monocoque) and a set of low range gears, in essence the GV is not that different to most all wheel drives and probably only on par ground clearance wise with several. Main difference I see are the aftermarket options available to turn it into a great little off road tourer (but not necessarily a true hard core 4 wheeler).

Just my opinion but the only issue I’d have with buying one used is that I believe the 15,000km service interval is far too long on a diesel for an engine oil and filter change, particularly when using a low ash oil to accommodate the DPF. Add larger tyres but still service based on odometer readings and you could be up to 16,000kms between oil changes.

Economy wise, one of the vehicles I regularly off road with is a V6 Hilux with a 120lt ARB LRT. Admitedly he carries quite a bit more gear than I do but with my 65lt tank, we're both running close to empty about the same time.

It's good that you've posted and reliability should be at the forefront of your research. The other side is suitability. What are you looking for, how do you plan to use it and where (towing, if off road - what type of terrain, city vs highway kms etc)?

I originally brought mine to beach launch an aluminum runabout but soon realised that with a bit of tweaking, was far more capable than just that and couldn't be happier. Sure I won't be entering any tough truck challenges but it's unlikely you'll find any all wheel drives on my tail when I go bush.

Cheers
Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Wes.

Thanks for the depth of details mate.

I'm looking for a car to do 750km a return trip to work.
On the weekend I want to get to 1 easy beach then a demanding trip to Byfield national park with a mate. With some mods done of course for easy driving.

I'm happy to wrench most things myself and agree the service interval is too long.

How does the car feel to drive?
Easy, under powered, just right,

Narhan
 

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I have no real complaints about my diesel.
For the size, power and economy of the 1.9L Renault F9Q engine, i would not trade it for anything else right now.

Mine does have a minor rear main oil leak, but i'm planning to replace the seal when i replace the clutch. Sitting on 112K now.

Most of my 4x4 trips are spent following a Patrol with a 4" lift. Where he goes, i go.
I always drain the oil at 5k, and filter at 10k, but that's old school and it works for my cars.

No problem with the DPF itself, but a small rubber hose coming out from it to a switch did blow out, so i replaced it for $22.
My only tip for buying any vehicle, make sure the service book is complete, and get a RWC before purchasing. If your in Oz, get the RACV to do a check for peace of mind. Then go enjoy what the GV has to offer. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you guy let me know what the difference between my09type 1 and type 2?

Also when was the PDF added to the exhaust? Is it a massive problem?
 

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DPF's came with the Renault engine in the Suzuki's, and you will only have a problem if you putt around town like a granny.
If you want to go illegal and unroadworthy, get the DPF removed and have your chip re-written. Saves the headache of the "massive' problem your worried about. :rolleyes:
 

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Power to weight ratio on the diesel? Hard to say. At the wheels, have to also take into account taller gearing if running larger tyres.

With stock (225/65-17) torque to weight very good, power to weight reasonbale.

On mine (245/65-17) torque to weight still good but power to weight a little weasy.

On 245/70-17 (or 245/75-16) which seems to be the largest tyres most on the forum fit, I'm guessing torque might still be passable but you'd probably need to chip to offset taller gearing from the larger diameter tyres (in fact with most chips around now, I'd be hopeful that both your power and torque to weight ratios would be better than stock. You should get between 15 and 20% boost in power and torque and with a 247/70-17 tyre, increased rolling circumference is around 7% up on stock.)

DPF? With the sort of Ks you do, wouldn't be an issue. Maybe you could check the driving patterns of the previous owner/s to put your mind at ease. If they were doing a lot of city Ks, might want to factor in a new DPF down the track into your overall budget. If buying through a dealer, tell them you want an extended warranty on the DPF. Just before they see you sign the cheque is a good time to ask ;)

Cheers
Wes
 

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I bought my Diesel about 2.5 years ago, with 76,000km. It now has 176,000km from my 800km weekly drive to work. Hasnt missed a beat except the small issues covered already.

The main problem i have with the car is how tight everything is, a simple oil filter change is a struggle (i service mine very 10,000km).

Anybody looked up how to change the thermostat? The Suzuki manual states to remove the engine. After changing the coolant i can see why, very little access as the thermostat is mounted at the back of the engine.
 

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The main problem i have with the car is how tight everything is, a simple oil filter change is a struggle (i service mine very 10,000km).

Anybody looked up how to change the thermostat? The Suzuki manual states to remove the engine. After changing the coolant i can see why, very little access as the thermostat is mounted at the back of the engine.
I hear you Andy.
These engines were never designed to fit inline, only across.

But I am getting faster with my oil filter replacement though :)
As for the thermostat replacement, lets hope the engine does not have to be removed !!:eek:
 

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Yep im the same, i think it took about 2 hours to change the filter the first time i serviced it. With the aid of a filter cup removal tool, i can do the oil and filter in about 30 minutes :D

You'll see how tight the thermostat is when you do a coolant change, be extra careful with the bleed cap....i dropped it the first time and it took several hours to find :mad:
 

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LMAO...Sorry ;)
 

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Hey Turbobus,

Another couple of things in regards to your type 1 vs type 2 question:

Pre 09 had trip computer and clock on top of centre air vents while the new one has it in a large display in the dash, Old one had manual A/C and new one has climate control A/C (works really well too), Old one has rear drums new has disks all round.

I read somewhere about thicker glass to reduce NVH but I'm not 100% on that. And as others pointed out 09+ has DMF.

I would strongly recommend getting an underbody guard before heading onto the beach (either iron man or outdoor auto). The plastic one will rip off if you drive in some wheel ruts and it leaves the drain hole at the bottom of the bellhousing exposed to scoop up all kind of sand and junk. These engines are known for a weak rear main seal and this will destroy it very quickly.
This happened to me, luckily it was 1 month before warranty ran out so they covered it, but they washed all the grease out of the DMF when they did it so it only lasted another 10 months or so. Aftermarket clutch and flywheel will cost $1200.

As for performance, I have 245 65 17 Cooper at3's and I recon it goes about the same as a D4D Hilux. Boost comes on at around 2000RPM but if you are putting around in traffic on the flat it's happy with anything over 1200. I get 7.1 L/100 on the highway sitting at 95-100 and 7.6 sitting at 110-115. The tank is 65L but it will tell you to fill up after 40. With 60/40 city highway I get 8.9.

I've towed a trailer that was about 1 tonne and it did it quite easily.

DPF light comes on every now and again but doesn't take much of a drive to get it off. Even a 3 lane 70km/h Sydney road with reasonable traffic will fix it within 20-30 mins otherwise 10 mins at 100k's.

Happy hunting..

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was really hoping for a diesel but it looks like I can't find one with leather, in prestige or luxury

I'm guessing a petrol will be good also as there are just soooooo many of them
 

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Yeah, Diesel doesn't get any options.
They seem to have held their value better than the petrol ones too so you should save a few bucks.
Can I ask why you are selling your Amarok?
I'm possibly getting a dual cab ute in a few years and an Amarok was at the top of my list.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Heaps of room in the amarok...in the front. I have a kid in the back behind the wife, who won't fit behind me. (I'm 6'4" and have the seat right back)
I have another one on the way and the backward facing seat won't fit behind the wife ( who is 6')

Looking at getting a smaller and bigger car. Apart from that it's awesome
 
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