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vitara 2016 head unit upgrade info

912 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  graeme.lightbody84
G-day all, i recently purchased a 2016 vitara 1.6 SZ4 5DR (uk) and it came with the basic dab radio and i was just wondering if anyone had or tryed to upgrade it by using a 2nd hand unit (from ebay) with the touch screen, reversing camera and sat-nav.
Just wondering if it is a straight swap ( but would require me installing the reversing camera at some point ) or am i better off getting one of these double din after market ones like a sony/etc with the faceplate conversion kits like this one ( Suzuki Vitara (2015-2019) complete Double DIN car stereo upgrade fitting kit (MATT BLACK) - InCarTec )

Any advice welcome especially as my local suzuki dealer can't help me in any way.
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It's a straight swap with a few notes. I have done this in my 2021 Vitara SZ4 with a used touchscreen (SLDA) unit from a 2017 scrapper off ebay (then updated the software via USB stick). The wiring is complete except for two things...
There was no GPS antenna in mine, you can buy a used 39950-54P00 genuine antenna off ebay and mount, but I just used a cheap (£10) magnetic fakra c gps antenna magnetized to the top of the unit. You need this for clock and navigation alerts, even if you plan to use Android Auto etc, without the antenna it gave spurious traffic alerts from the other side of the country.
Secondly the wiring for the reverse camera was there (green plug) but mine did not have wiring in the boot hatch (runs all the way to the boot annoyingly). In my view better to get an SLDA to aftermarket camera adapter and run through the car with a generic one as the genuine cameras are expensive anyway.
Oh and the steering wheel phone controls on my SZ4 have a Bluetooth logo, on the SLDA models they have a face for voice control. With the SLDA fitted the Bluetooth button does voice assistant so works as intended.

I've done the same to my 2016 Swift which was never designed to have an SLDA - the wiring was the same and it works, so wiring seems generic regardless of age.

In my view the genuine headunit does look best and it works well so I'd choose it over aftermarket.
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Thankyou very much for the reply, just out of interest did you have any issue's with the ebay one's being code locked, there seems to be a lot of posts on here about radio codes etc. I am also going to upgrade the speakers because i feal they are the weakest link in the sound system.
I don't think they are supposed to be locked by default. My one for the Swift worked out of the box. The one for the Vitara was hard locked (no option for code, said visit dealer) as someone had entered the code incorrectly too many times. Breaker was very apologetic and told me to ask Suzuki and they would refund.

I won't put it on a public forum again but it is elsewhere noted what the default code would be composed of and you can ask the breaker for, they will have this information even if they claim not to have the code itself.

For the hard locked one I managed to find the dealer code on a slightly suspect forum elsewhere on the internet so if you got really stuck I do have that info subject to proof you bought it of course! These units don't use can-bus so there's nothing too clever going on security wise.

I also did the speakers, agree they are weak. I fitted coaxials to the doors first but then put the stock ones back with some aftermarket tweeters in the mirror plate where they would be on the SZ5. I got cheap tweeters as I wasn't convinced they would fit but there is space and I think this sounds better than the coaxials in the end.
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Hi there - great advice I have just purchased 2021 SZ4 - just bought a 2019 unit off ebay - locked. I'm taking to dealer to install / I may need that code if any issues. For the tweeters - what did you use & which door speakers would you recommend? Thank you. Graeme
Before you upgrade the speakers I would do the tweeters and see if you are happy enough. The tweeters and stock speakers sound decent together, better than the pioneer coaxials I tried first.

I used the cheapest tweeters I could see on Amazon with flush mounting gear in all honesty, because I wasn't convinced there would be clearance... In-phase ones, they aren't bad actually.

The mounting hole centre needs to be somewhere around 30mm up and 40mm in from front edge. Wiring is just a tab connector off the speaker feed to save damage to the standard loom.

Beware when removing this trim, there's a latch at the base to unclip from the door card then you can just pull and pop the clip.

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That's brilliant - I'm picking up the car on Friday - got suzuki to fit rear parking sensors - they're reluctant to fit szt head unit as they will charge £90 per hour and say it could be easy plug in or difficult - suggested I go to autospark to get fitted. Head unit bought off ebay due 48 hours - but seller has no code - taken from 2019 model - how do I unlock?
Tweeters - I bought generic perforated panels from amazon - how did you fit amazon tweeters to standard closed off mirror panel?
It's very straightforward to fit, took me an hour to do it and that was with kid gloves as my car was 2 days old at the time. I'm surprised that they won't fit it (sensors look way more complex), worth trying to do it yourself, I can post up some pictures of how if needed. You only need a screwdriver and some cheap pry tools off Amazon.

Ask the breaker for the VIN of the donor car, the code is possible with this and see other posts in the forum. Me posting up how puts all our cars at risk, but it's shown on other posts for other models even. If you haven't got the radio yet it may well not even be locked.

For the tweeters I popped off the blank covers and the door card, cut a hole in the blank and trailed the wires down the door card. The plastic is so thin you can cut it with a good Stanley and it doesn't need to be neat as the tweeter has a lip which hides any imperfections. Tap the tweeter wires into the original speaker wires with a self stripping connector.
Yes pics would be great - breaker on ebay messaged me a 4 digit code & will give me the vin. What pry tools do I need? Does the battery need disconnected? Suzuki dealer has been poor. For the tweeters I see alpine do a similar - I suppose the amazon pair more than do the job. Really appreciate your help.
Can't get photos to upload for some reason (probably because it crashed uploading on my phone and is now upset) but here are the steps:

Yes always safest to disconnect the battery. To get to the radio you need to remove the big plastic coloured trim insert from the dash...

Open the glovebox fully, unclip the damper from the left hand side. Keeping it fully open pull it hard up and it will unseat to be removed.

With the glovebox removed carefully put one hand up the back of the dashboard to the plastic trim. Wear a glove as it's sharp up there. Whilst pushing the coloured trim forward insert the pry tool to the top left and pop the first clip. The clip popping is enough, don't try and remove the trim just yet, if it's lifted slightly this is perfect.

Slide the pry tool right and each clip will pop without much effort at all, the first is the worst. Once you are at the thin bit of the trim over the radio go left and round the bottom section of trim over the glovebox.

Keep going across the top of the radio to the speedometer side. Here is harder, you will need to pry below the speedometer cluster to pop the clip, the best location I found is at the bottom corner near the grill like holes in the dashboard.

Once all clips are popped the trim will come out so remove it to expose the radio top. Two screws secure the radio. Undo them with a magnetic screwdriver so as not to drop, or mash some blutac onto a non magnetic screwdriver as belt and braces.

The radio just now needs to be pulled out, use the "wings" at the top left and right. Pull it forward enough to remove the wiring, then it can be removed completely. Don't forget to unclip the hazard switch wiring.

This is all more simple than it sounds but obviously take your time to not damage the trim. Removing the glovebox isn't essential I guess but I found it easier to get the pry tool in for the first clip by applying pressure behind the trim.

Something like Halfords Assorted Pry Bar Set (FIXG373) or a cheaper Amazon equivalent is what I used.
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Thank you Found a fitter but he needs all the kit & doesn't supply cables etc. What leads do i need for both door speakers / the tweeters / the revised head unit (have nav lead)
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