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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, iv got a 1994 sammy 1.3i. Got a weird noise when i accelerate hard, had it a while and a friend says his does it too but its just bec its prop driven. Anyway i thought i'd try engaging the freewheeling hubs and see if it goes or anything changes. Is it normal to have a noticable vibration around 40mph+ or is it normal? Thanks in Advance.
 

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in order to test your theory, you would need to engage the hubs, shift it into 4WD and remove the rear drive shaft and u-joints. That would make it front wheel drive. The only thing mine does at 40 mph when I punch the accelerator is... slowly accelerate. My kids call it the "racing snail". Mine pretty much bumps and jitters and rattles at any speed, it would be hard for me to notice a mild shudder at higher speeds. If I did notice a shudder it probably isn't going to be minor. It would be best to find what is causing the problem as soon as you can.

vibrations in the drivetrain may be from worn u-joints or worn wheel bearings. Put the car up on a jack and pull at the edges of the tires and see if there is any play in the wheels. On the rear ther should be none. They also should rotate without any grinding or scraping sounds, and they shouldn't have a lot of play in the differential. Check the u-joints by pulling and twisting the driveshaft with the transfer in neutral and the wheels up. Look for any play or slop in the ujoint and inspect for any visible damage like a crushed or mangled bearing cap. if it's a really bad vibration then it could be that the two halves of your driveshaft are out of phase.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats what i ment, i engaged the front wheel hubs and the vibration appeared. Its enough so that you can feel it through the seat. It even moves the rear view mirror uncontrollably. Although if you go past 40mph then its nowhere near as bad. Iv checked the front wheel bearings and adjusted one. Just to be clear the 'noise' i speak of is a totally different thing to this vibration iv just found. Thanks for your help.
 

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... iv got a 1994 sammy . Is it normal to have a noticable vibration around 40mph+ or is it normal? ....
I've been chasing a 40-50 mph vibration on my '93. I replaced U-joints on both driveshafts (one going-bad U-joint on the rear for sure), but it was still there. After replacing the intermediate shaft with an (out-of-balance) spare, I rebuilt the original shaft and finally eliminated the vibration. Front driveshafts were never intended to be spun at speed and may not be well balanced. It's only 8 bolts to remove F or R driveshaft. And verify driveshaft clocking while you're at it (fig. 15.7 of FSM).

Edit: Me and my rig spend a lot of time on the highway at speeds up to 70mph. My Samurai is also an almost daily-driver but gets towed to remote locations. I'm concerned that a vibrating drivetrain will pound a bearing, or another part, so badly that I've got a lot more to replace, possibly in the middle of nowhere. I had to be towed out of Death Valley last year, and I already try, real hard, to stay on top of needed maintenance. It's an old truck, so I have to pay attention to repairs, 'cause I don't wanna walk home.
 

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Please explain "Driveshaft Clocking" to me?
"Clocking", or "Phasing". I'll see if I can do this without pictures, or, drawings.

With a simple cross type universal joint, the driveline accelerates and decelerates through each rotation, in relation to the input speed of the "drive" yolk. The problem is solved, by the u-joint on the opposite end of the driveline connected to the "driven" yolk. Power tranmission gets smoothed back out by the counteracting of the acceleration/deceleration at each end of the driveline. Everything works out fine, as long as the hinge points (bearing cups of the u-joints) are in the same linear location in relation to each other. When you look down the driveline, the cups of the yolks connected to the driveline will be in the same "o'clock" position to each other, in relation to the shaft of the driveline.
When the u-joints are out of phase (out of time), the drive and driven yolks are constantly faster and slower than each other through the rotation of the drive line and you get some nasty vibrations, as well as accelerated wear of everything involved.
 

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Sorry about that. Just make sure both of your u-joints are lined up with each other as you look down the drive shaft. If, they don't, pull the driveline apart at the slip joint and turn the halves around until they do.
Phasing is the reason front wheel drive cars use CV (constant velocity) joints on the front axles.
 

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front driveshaft-
Check the universals dont have play
Check the yokes are not loose to the diff, and to the trans case, or splines worn/loose in yokes
check the spline is not worn/loose in the slip joint (side to side play not in/out obviously)
uni's out of phase you covered

I was forced to drive home front wheel drive when my rear diff pinion bearings packed up, had loose front yoke on transfer case and worn spline on same yoke, and maybe worn spline in slip joint. Made dashboard vibrate like crazy climbing hilly roads.
But it doesnt vibrate bad in 4wd (only at speed) so havent fixed it, I will when it falls off haha
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks so much for the replies :) Just fitted my towbar and electrics this weekend so thats a job for next weekend, Anyone got some dimensions of some Bull Bar brackets or even a trace around scanned in or something. Thanks
 
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