Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Question for the general public... I have a 1992 Sami on 35"s with a 4" spring lift at the minimum... i just traded a guy for this rig and have no Suzuki experience. With the hubs turned in but not in 4wd, i get one heck of a vibration. i asked the guy that owned it and he said basically every Suzuki he every owned was like that. Is that the case to be expected or should I repack/replace these hubs? I already have one (atleast I think ONLY one...) that is already questionable and needs tapping to lock in... Any suggestions? I'm thinking of just replacing with Warn Premium hubs? Anyone use the Mile Markers? Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
First off welcome to world of 'zuki wheeling!

How does it behave with the transfercase in 4wd?

I have a nasty front driveline vibration and it is because I still have the stock shaft with spacers and my driveline angles are all screwed up and my slip yoke portion of the shaft is also sloppy. This may be your problem. I have a Breeze industries high pad SPOA so I have about 6" of suspension lift. I'm saving my pennies to get new shafts front and rear to cure my dirveline issues.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
A couple things to look at.
Is your driveshaft correctly phased (are the u-joints lined up)? Even one or two splines off can give you a nasty vibration.
Is there any play in the pinion up front? The driveshaft will spin from input from the wheels if the hubs are locked, but there is nothing at the tcase to tighten up the other end if it is in 2wd.
Or how about play in the ujoints? Same thing.

If you hear a grinding at the front of the tcase it could be your output gear, but you only said vibes, not grinding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks!

thanks for the info guys. BillJohn saw your reply on the driveline thread and the link to Tom Wood's was perfect. I've been building Jeeps and putting Ford 8.8's under them for years and always just kinda winged it and I guess got lucky from lowering the tranny/xfer and raising the rear pinion and never had any vibes at all. Never thought about how to really compare them. (off topic makes me worry about one rig i built but never finished and traded for this Zuki... and had raised the pinion on the front and lowered the transfer so the angles would be going away from each other pretty good.:confused: in that instance would a Double CV driveshaft be the answer as getting chamber into the front was more critical that having a downward pinion angle to match the transfer... hmmm)


anyways... back to my issues. the rig runs fairly smooth in 4 wheel drive, with the hubs in. its when its in the hubs are in and its in 2wd the front wants to hop all over the place and wander all around. when the hubs are out it drives find, but like i said the hubs need tapping and tinkering to make sure their out so thats a hassle too... how do you know how the "birfields" are? i'm only used to dana running gear. i'll check the pinion u-joint and stuff tonight... and the angles. thinking about it its 4" springs and huge shackles that complete the lift to get the 35"s on it.

thanks again guys!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Birfields.... ahhhh, the glass jaw of the zook world. If you put the vehicle in gear, 4wd, engine off with the front axle on jackstands - you can rotate the tire back and forth.

Open diffs - you will feel a little play but the tire should catchsolid and spin the opposite tire the other way. Locked - same feel but turns same way.

If you spin the tire back and forth and feel a crunching, clacking noise, or it spins free, pull it apart and inspect the birf for cracks and or pieces. Now that you are into zooks, you need to practice replacing them. I have it down to about 5 minutes start to finish (each side). I used to snap one side or the other an average of one side per season. I am running 26 spline Spidertrax fronts now and haven't had a break in two years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I would deff replace the hubs if they need taping to engage or disengage. I myself am new to zuks and have an 87 on 36" tires. I bought it from some kid who basically just stacked the leaf springs with a spoa kit to get the tires to fit. However the truck itself sags in the rear buy about 1 inch and it drives me insane. It has a 2 inch shackle on it already but i was thinking if i get boomerang shackles will that raise it, or should i get a 2" block and get rid of some of the springs to raise it. Once i am done with the rear i am going to need to build the front axle. Any one know were i can get most of the parts and any good upgrades i can do aswell that arent to expensive
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Just say NO to blocks...
36" tires sound great, but using stock zook axles you are going to snap something if you take it on anything harder than a dirt road... 'nuff lecture.

If the previous owner was just stacking stock springs, I would consider looking for some lifted springs. If you want to get a bit more into it, Go with a set of lifted CJ front springs all around (same pack width, longer leafs). You will have to look into a set of drop shackles, but it's cheaper than relocating the spring mounts (and definately safer than blocks...)..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Yea my goal one day is to completely swap axles and do a build ground up but for now i simply can not afford that. I just want to get it road worthy and level if i were to do the cj springs all around would i keep the same lift hight. Also how would that match up being that they are longer would i run into any interfiernce issues?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Yea my goal one day is to completely swap axles and do a build ground up but for now i simply can not afford that. I just want to get it road worthy and level if i were to do the cj springs all around would i keep the same lift hight. Also how would that match up being that they are longer would i run into any interfiernce issues?
You never really said how much it was lifted, so I just had to guess. CJ leaf packs will give you about 2" of lift (higher if they are lifted), and depending on what dropshackles you use you could get up to 2" more. That added to your SPOA would take it to about 8.5" of lift before adding in the tire size. Here is an article where I show how to do the CJ's up front, and the back would be similar.

Goin' long - CJ Front installation

You haven't mentioned what solution you are using for steering and driveshafts, so I figure that will be your next topic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thank You for everything so far Billjohn. I do think that now i am going to swap out springs with lifted 4" cj springs. As far as the amount of lift i have, i can honestly not give you an exact number. In talking to the guys at rockyroad and some of the measurments i took it looks like i have around 13" total maybe more or less. The rig has 2" shackles all around, axle shims, spoa, and 4" thick leafs w/ 13 leafs total. As for the driveshafts, they have 1 1/2" spacers and with the help of this shims dont seem to be binding that much. The rears is ok and the front is iffy but i have more problems to worry about for now. As for the steering (i am glad you pointed that out) it looks like a hand made link but it does have drop pitman arm buy the looks of it. The link looks like it was cut and welded to extend it with a sleave over the extend portion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
nice posts

thanks for the info guys and the great posts. sorry for the absense, would like to say ive been busy having fun. i just have been leaving it in 2wd and keeping the hubs turned out. i will see when i get to using it more for wheelin' about putting new hubs in. i have a new problem i'll post a new thread to. thanks again guys!:cool:
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top